188 replies to this topic

[The Batman]

yup and a bmw, im a proper wanker

[CocoPops]

im a proper wanker

[The Batman]

ive seen the light though...

 

bmw was great when it worked but keeping it working was more work and money than flymo!

[MAXR]

I did love BMW's until you bought one. Talk about BMW's being driven by knobs and your face comes to mind. Actually, your face does resemble one? Coincidence? I don't think so....😂

You're now driving a seat? I'm now going off them too!😭

Stick with the flymo, don't keep ruining cars for me!

[The Batman]

Noooo not seat. I went pikey than that lol. Got 2017 Octavia vrs estate so probably gone off them before I had one lol

It’s a brilliant car tho just needs a bit more poke

[MAXR]

I spent very little time on the car today due to a friend (single dad) who fell asleep at the wheel of his Discovery at 50+mph. He rolled the car in a ditch along a local road to me, through a hedge, glancing a tree & then rolling. Fortunately, he had just dropped off his two kids with friends an hour before. I had to go to the police compound to collect various belongings. The car was so badly damaged that it was barely recognisable. all airbags deployed, most windows had shattered, roof buggered, car toast.

 

I came back and couldn't really get motivated to do much other than a few minor alterations. I still need to move the front & headlights forward by 20mm and upwards by 10mm, which should give me 45mm vertical distance from tyre to headlight casing. I'm still unsure if this is enough? Any ideas? 

 

 

 

 

 

Any help would be appreciated. 

 

So, I started cutting up the bonnet, not much of it left at the moment. It's now flimsy a hell & each time I remove it on my own, I think it will break in two.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What do you think of moving the original bonnet front lip to where I have relocated it in the photo? Next step tomorrow is to do some more cuts on the bonnet to realign the top surfaces before making a start on bending some galvanised wire to form the headlight shape. It should make forming the new wing & bonnet curves to blend to the headlights & new located bonnet front edge easier. However, nothing can be started until I know the wheel travel will not foul the headlight under hard cornering and over bumps etc.

 

 

 

 

[Chris P Duck]

yup and a bmw, im a proper jolly nice chap

Married life does that

[Chris P Duck]

yup and a bmw, im a proper w.anker

Married life does that

Edited by Chris P Duck, 01 September 2018 - 08:43 PM.

[MAXR]

I just realised, my front wheels are 17'' Dia, I've got a new set of 16'' front wheels to fit. I'll try fitting them tomorrow after I have a couple of old tyres put on them.

[Dan r]

The only way you can be sure would be to remove the front springs or compress them so it's sitting on the bump stops, then go full lock each way with the steering. You then have to decide how much clearance you're comfortable with I guess.

Not sure what your plans are for wheel arch liners, assume you won't have any as it's a track car? Could put a little guard / sacrificial plate over them as they would get covered in track rubber.

Really impressed with what you're doing BTW, looking forward to seeing the result.


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[MAXR]

....sacrificial Plate? Not a bad idea, but that may be my last resort option. If I can move the light, I'd prefer to do that.

I'll try fitting a wheel arch liner in, but It will mean having to cut a hole out where the rear of the headlight housing is closet to the wheel. Im pretty sure that the part of the headlight housing closet to the wheel is for one of the 3 adjusting mechanisms to adjust the light beam, so I can't really cut a portion off and weld the hole back up.

I could possibly plastic weld a cover or hot air gun a bulge back onto the liner (if the plastic is weldable /pliable) or super glue a bulge back on for those who may wish to keep their liners.

It's an interesting project, well for me it is. I don't feel so bad doing it to the VX, even if people decide to bastardise their cars, as front & rear clams are readily available now to buy. Future investors/ purists can then retrofit the original bodywork/ lights back as nothing else is effected by the conversion.

I've decided to not fit a plywood splitter back to my car, but I may fit the Audi aftermarket splitter which gives it a noticeable jutting chin as well as fitting a flat underside. I will be fitting a smooth curved base & sides within the crashbox. Perhaps add two staggered curved aero blades inside the crashbox to channel the air through the crashbox and up through the radiator with hopefully less turbulence and perhaps some extra free downforce. Clearly, this is just a total amateur guess. I may as well use the big hole in the middle.(don't smirk) to better affect if I can.

Guys, has anyone used their hollow sills to channel air back into the engine bay? I was amazed at how much space there is. They are just hollow tubes that go front to back. Now that Ive cut scoops in the rear sides for my intakes, it's all accessible and doable. Just a thought for anyone wanting another cooling option.

[FLD]

If your car is purely for track why bother with lights? You just put some blanks in.

[MAXR]

If your car is purely for track why bother with lights? You just put some blanks in.

 

 

I have had blanks fitted front & rear for several years, I have just removed them to do this conversion.

 

...I was going to part company with the VX as it is getting old now, troublesome and I do have other cars I could use on the track. However, I have just purchased another fibreglass car & the company that makes the bodies for them also owned a VX220 several years ago. Anyway, after much talk, he convinced me to keep it and 'revamp' it. A deal was done & I started looking around at what I'd like to do with it. 

 

I don't want any more power, if I did, I would have bought the Harrop advertised on eBay recently and I think I have enough power now. So, my VX had to evolve or go. I've spent years treating it like a track slag, never caring about looks or damage. When it cracked, I used gaffa tape, when it got scratched I grinned, I really couldn't have cared any less for it.

 

After driving my GT3 RS now, it feels fast, comfortable & tidy. When I get out and look back at it, it looks nice and I like that. That's why I'm having a full overhaul of the bodywork, interior & mechanics. I ditched the rearview mirror after it fell off, ditched the rear lights after they got cracked, cut out everything that would save weight & binned everything I could from the interior including from the engine bay, lids, glass etc. some of that is going back on now!

 

The truth is, I'm getting old and it's time for some padding on the seat! Now the damn Porsche mileometer keeps telling me not to drive too far, replacement tyres & stone chips will wipe thousands from the resale price. So I've also learnt that I'm tight too!

 

 

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Right, last photos of the car for a while....The daytime running lights look so cool on! When the bonnet & bumper is done, I will post again.

 

I like the old VX front bonnet edge relocated (in the photos it needs twisting down) bloody gaffa tape wouldn't hold it where I wanted it to go for long enough, but you'll get the idea. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Doctor Ed]

I see you stretched it out forwards ~5-10cm ... like!

[FLD]

I get the Kirby appeal requirement! Have you considered blanks like on funny cars? Still blanks but airbrushed to look like real lights. Look ok. It would save a lot of work getting the clearance on the wheels for a one off production.

[MAXR]

Clearance I think is sorted by fitting 16" wheels & moving headlights forward & up. The overall weight of my car shouldn't be any heavier than before the conversion as Ive ditched most of my front bonnet (that was totally over engineered) and my coupe back conversion has also removed weight. The boot bulkhead has been mostly cut out together with most of the internal buttresses plus the lower rear bumper area will be mainly meshed or open. Rear lights areas meshed with just round LED's behind. Ive weighed my car at the weigh bridge prior to work starting. So, it will be interesting to see how heavy it is after all the work & painting. I'm having the body fully soda blasted prior to painting.

However, I will be adding weight back by beefing up the front radiator Shroud, which will be supporting the headlights and possibly a front lower frame, which will bolted to the crashbox, just in case I want to fit a manly plywood splitter at a later date. Overall though, I don't care if it's heavier, it will mean more cars to play with on track.

The daytime running lights alone are worth the extra weight.😁Also the seat Leon door mirrors that will be electrically operated & folding.

....I just need heated seats, a good Audi system and pile carpets like Joe has.....Sorry, my mistake, it's piles that he has!

[The Batman]

i really wouldnt worry about weight bud

[MAXR]

im not overly worried, but you know the lengths Ive gone to with my car previously to remove weight from it, so I still want to keep it trim & in check.

[The Batman]

you need to go on a diet if youre that worried

[Dave E]

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Guys, has anyone used their hollow sills to channel air back into the engine bay? I was amazed at how much space there is. They are just hollow tubes that go front to back. Now that Ive cut scoops in the rear sides for my intakes, it's all accessible and doable. Just a thought for anyone wanting another cooling option.

 

The airflow can be significant, ok not for cooling but the Lotus cup boys used the sills to feed an unofficial kind of ram air intake. It was so effective it was banned in their race series.