5 replies to this topic

[Lightning002]

Hi All,

 

Having changed brake pads on my car at the weekend I realised that the car runs quite a lot of droop and consequently there is a good 20/30mm free space when the damper extends.
The car has gaz monos on, 425lb on the front... I forgot to check the rear at the time. I'm also not sure on the ride heights but can go and measure this in a bit.  However it does feel quite skittish on the bumpier B roads and dives around all over, I'm going to assume the front hasn't been bump steered or has a lot of toe on the front.

Are people using helper springs or are they keeping the cars high enough to not need to worry about excessive droop and spring rattle?

Also has anybody got a set-up sheet I can take a peek at? Cw's,toes,camber, castor etc.

I used to work in motorsport and would like to get the car handling much nicer for the type of driving I will be doing.....not track work.

Any information people can give would be great.

 

Thanks    

[F757lkk@gmail.com]

Ive just ordered Gaz monos from type116 so will be keeping an eye on this thread 

[mbes2]

What did you do in in motorsport ?

 

Have the GEO checked, check the shocks are not leaking or set too hard.

 

URL for setups

https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Geo_Setups

[TheHood]

Standard ride height is 130mm front and rear (measured at the front and the rear of the chassis tub "rail"), although it's commonly considered to be beneficial to put a bit of rake in the car - I think mine was set to 120mm front 130mm rear - this worked well for me on the road with 16in front tyres. Track drivers go lower but as I think as you may suspect this can put the bump steer in an unhappy place without fancy uprights with offset centres.

I'd start there as its free and there's probably a fair few cars about by now with ride heights set more for aesthetics than for handling considerations.

[Exmantaa]

Put some helper springs on the rears! (or called "tender" springs) Faulkner will have some in 2.25"diam.

Think you  have around 500lb at the rear now(?), so a 150-200lb helper spring there to take up this 20-30mm slack will do nicely.

 

Lots of info on Geo's here on the forum too.    

[Lightning002]

What did you do in in motorsport ?

 

Have the GEO checked, check the shocks are not leaking or set too hard.

 

URL for setups

https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Geo_Setups

 

Hi,

 

I worked primarily as a race engineer on group CN endurance cars in VdeV, dabbled with GT3 mp4-12c / 650s gt3 in britcar and spent a lot of time in Historics with  Lola T70, GT-40, Cobra daytona etc in the masters scene before getting a more normal boring job around 4 years ago. All of those cars are out and out race cars so you rarely consider comfort if that makes sense. With those cars we have access to lots of testing. Starting with a given set-up and forever changing it. With a road car it's not quite as easy as they are a pain to work on Vs a proper racing car. Taking a peek at somebodies set-up sheet would make the job easier, but as others have suggested I think I will take a look at the ride heights first. I don't really have easy access to bump steer guages, tracking bars etc. It can all be done but I would like to remove some of the trial and error 

Standard ride height is 130mm front and rear (measured at the front and the rear of the chassis tub "rail"), although it's commonly considered to be beneficial to put a bit of rake in the car - I think mine was set to 120mm front 130mm rear - this worked well for me on the road with 16in front tyres. Track drivers go lower but as I think as you may suspect this can put the bump steer in an unhappy place without fancy uprights with offset centres.

I'd start there as its free and there's probably a fair few cars about by now with ride heights set more for aesthetics than for handling considerations.

 

Yeah, it's a pain on speedbumps and has no front splitter left!  Feels far too stiff / compromised for a road car. Having said that I haven't owned anything like this before. Ride height has to be the first port of call I think. Having a desk job it's easier to see what people are doing on here before I go rolling around. Have to see if I can get back into the old workshops one weekend and sort the corner weights too! 

 

Put some helper springs on the rears! (or called "tender" springs) Faulkner will have some in 2.25"diam.

Think you  have around 500lb at the rear now(?), so a 150-200lb helper spring there to take up this 20-30mm slack will do nicely.

 

Lots of info on Geo's here on the forum too.    

 

I did do a bit of a dig after posting this thread initially. A lot of information on bump steer etc. I was wanting to know what a 'fast road' set up looks like in terms of specification and setup and then I can see where I'm at against the norm. I used to use Faulkner quite regular for custom springs when we wanted something in between standard lb ratings.

 

First things first I will check the ride heights and then see how it behaves. Thanks everybody your comments / information.