82 replies to this topic

[Mercenary]

I went to 3 shops and they didn't sell the piston retraction tool in the correct size... So I ended up using a pair of needle nose pliers and they did the job okay Pivoting the caliper was easy in the end - once I found out that you have to push it all the way in (towards the body of the car) for it to release! In the end (once I got past the issue of pivoting the caliper) it was easy and didn't take too long! Thanks for the help everyone

[Whiteboy]

Well done it will be easier next time

[oblomov]

before going clockwise, pre-soak the piston with WD-40.

DON't use WD40 (bad for the seals, may even contaminate brake fluid?) Instead use a silicon grease or spray.

Edited by oblomov, 26 December 2004 - 12:49 PM.

[Northern]

Going to do my rear pads and disks this afternoon. Could someone with a memory better than mine remind me of the size of alan key needed for the disk ? I think it's 7mm but I could be wrong Cheers

[MarkH]

Thanks for this guide Steve - job done on Saturday using a print out of this thread, and another pair of hands! However, my experience seems slightly different to others: - The hardest part by far for me was removing the pin that actually holds in the pads. Eventually broke the voltage detector tool I was using (it had a long, thin metal end to it) but after snapping off the plastic top it worked a treat. I guess a long nail would work too, but I couldn't find one... - Winding back the piston was really easy. I bought a rewind tool, but it didn't fit, so used some long nosed pliers and it took just a few twists. - Oh, and although the previous Vauxhall service said "Rear pads very low", they actually had a good 3-4mm left on each! So glad I did it myself (and upgraded to the Mintex 1144's)... All seems well apart from the occasional pad "groan" at very low speeds, so thanks again for the guide. Invaluable!

[Tom]

Great guide i change out my disc's and pads it is so easy hard to understand why they charge so much so if any one in the Aberdeen area need help pm me. Tom

[christurbo]

Great guide - Thank you bud On thing you need to mention - use brute force when things arnt going your way

[richclem]

Did mine today. 1st wheel I took gingerely and took my time. Once I knew what I was doing and had all the right tools to hand, 2nd one took no time at all. Excellent guide Do not bother buying a tool for the caliper retraction. I got the one from Eliseparts, and it would not fit . If it had fit there was no space to turn it. Definitely use a pair of long-nosed pliars. Job done The only thing I want to check is that you do not have to take the metal "clips" that fit on the OEM pads off and put them on the new pads. I assume these come already on OEM pads. I replaced with Mintex 1144's and just used the rubber pads that came with them. Is this right ? Thanks

[christurbo]

You just fit the rubber pads for the Mintex 1144's - oh and loads of copper slip. You only put the spring clip back on.

[B5M_VX]

any ideas how to adjut the handbrake? I'm not 100% sure before I start

[h8ten]

Did my discs and pads all round today, rear ones would not pivot on the bottom bolt but I was able to remove the disc easily to get to the inboard pad. I was replacing the disc anyway but in future I will remove the disc to get access to the inboard pad.

[h8ten]

Forgot to add that as I was turning the pistons to retract them the rubber dust seals were twisting. A small thin screwdriver was gently eased between the dust seal and the piston and slid all round the piston to release the dust seal, after this the piston went back easily and the dust seal stayed in place.

[RWinstanley]

Did my discs and pads all round today, rear ones would not pivot on the bottom bolt but I was able to remove the disc easily to get to the inboard pad. I was replacing the disc anyway but in future I will remove the disc to get access to the inboard pad.

I had this when first removing mine the steel boss that the bolt goes through sits in a chamfered recess in the hub, this can get stuck, i got it come free by wriggling backwards and forwards.

[benw]

I just wanted to make a small addition to the instructions at the top of this thread as I've used these instructions a number of times over the years and every time one small part catches me out.

It's when you've undone the 17mm bolt, tapped out the outer pad and the instructions say 'Lean the caliper back'. It's not quite as simple as that. This is a bit difficult to explain so I'm using a picture....




So the end of the barrel that the bolt runs through (Marked A) actually sits in a cup in the mounting (Marked B ) The caliper won't lean back until the two parts are seperated. The best way I've found to do this is to tap gently at the opposite end of the barrel using a wooden block, or something that won't slip and split the rubber boot. It doesn't take much force to seperate them but you have to do this before the caliper will tip back.

I hope that makes sense?!

Edited by benw, 07 January 2007 - 06:20 PM.

[Steve Crisp]

Nice one, Ben. Additions greatfully recieved! Steve

[benw]

Nice one, Ben. Additions greatfully recieved!


Steve

Shame I didn't read the post immediately before mine though - which explains exactly what I was trying to in about a quarter of the words!! I included a picture though

Edited by benw, 08 January 2007 - 02:33 PM.

[oblomov]

Maybe I've missed it skimming through this thread, but anyone know the correct torque setting for the 17 mm bolt?

[caleebra]

This guide from SELOC on rebuilding the rear caliper has some useful info

http://wiki.seloc.or..._Brembo_Caliper

[ukgulf]

Did my rears today.... new Mintex 1144 and discs curtesy of Autovaux. 1 disc retaining screw came out easy... the other needed drilling and a little persuasion from the club hammer Those calipers are easy to wind in with the discs off!! Fronts next weekend.

Edited by ukgulf, 30 September 2007 - 08:01 PM.

[bohemoth]

silly question after drilling the screw out did you replace it.