82 replies to this topic

[ukgulf]

silly question after drilling the screw out did you replace it.

Whilst intending to drill it out completely I actually drilled the hole a bit bigger and forced a torx socket into it and managed to unscrew it... I re-used it as it was easier to get the wheel aligned and back on.

I will get a new one later this week if my friendly BMW mechanic mate over the road from me hasn't got a spare one lurking about.

Screw CSK M10 disc to hub part no. 90278945

Edited by ukgulf, 30 September 2007 - 08:34 PM.

[Retset]

Gonna be doing this soon - maybe tomorrow! Do you reckon these would do the rear caliper? If so I'll get them before I start.

[VXJON]

Gonna be doing this soon - maybe tomorrow! Do you reckon these would do the rear caliper? If so I'll get them before I start.

Should be fine


A set of long nose pliers work just as well

[Retset]

Thanks. I have long nose ones like the pic below but assumed the points will be too chubby ... ?

[VXJON]

They should be fine, last time we were forced to use a R clip to wind them back which involved a lot of swearing

[techieboy]

Hmmm, that will have been an easy exercise.

Edited by techieboy, 22 January 2008 - 10:22 PM.

[Tim F]

Can I just add Retset that I found the job much more difficult than it looks! Getting the calipers back was a complete nightmare too. Tim

[Retset]

I'm prepared to take it to a garage if I have to but really want to try it myself first. I've reserved the circlip pliers but will try with my needle nose 1st. If they fail I'll take a different car to Halfrauds!

[slindborg]

ive got some fairly fat needle nose pliers and they did the deed fine. The halfords in town "might" have the circlip pliers lol. If you get really stuck give me a shout.

[Retset]

Well, all done today I'm actually pretty damn pleased with myself but mainly I'm so chuffed to be able to get all the advice from here - makes me feel all

It started badly because I couldn't get most of the wheel nuts off. I pulled so hard on a front one that the wheel started turning even though the car was on all fours Damp drive admittedly. In the end I reverted to my old trick of standing on the wrench - worked on some nuts till this happened:



I just don't understand why places put them on so tight I pulled the wheel brace out of the BMW and, as luck would have it, it's also 17mm. That worked fine with much standing & bouncing on it!

Jacking was OK. No stickers but forum advice made it easy. Just drove onto 2 blocks first and in went the jack. I mainly left it on the jack but with an axle stand in light contact on the cross member just in case.

Following the guide on here made it easy to get the pads off and calliper out (rear) but the allen key holding the disc on was stupid tight as well - until I used the wrench handle anyway



Then plain sailing. A handy tip for noobs like me is to remember to thoroughly clean the new disc. I was just going to give it a quick wipe till I read the fine print that came with it! Used cellulose thinners - all I could find and I like the smell

Soon, it was done and I was so proud I took a pic:



Fronts were dead easy and I was glad I happened to have the right size allen key for the calliper removal. Front discs were in quite reasonable condition. I had been thinking about storing the 2nd set but, sod it, at £42 I thought I'd bung 'em on!

In cheerful mood, I arrived at the last disc - the other rear. Disc screw was the easiest of the four so I knew my luck was in till I found this:



I have no idea what the metal blocking the hole is but it's hard as nails (harder actually!) and wouldn't budge - could get very little purchase on it. In the end I broke my 2 and 3mm drill bits on it and made enough of a hole to turn the piston - it was clockwise IIRC (to answer a query higher up). Fine after that. The last time the rear brakes were done was in 2006 by Vauxhall. I'm a new owner but have receipts from the last one. Vauxhall left the hole like that - unbelievable

I spent hours on this job with frequent looks at this site on the laptop - gotta love wireless However, I wanted to take it slow and get it right. All the nuts involved have been liberally dosed with copper ease so I don't forsee the same problems next time.

Bedded them in just now as it was too busy earlier. All went fine and the car pulls up straight and true - a blessed relief Different feeling the 1144's - you can feel and hear that they are rougher.

On Friday I'll be attempting to get my ATE Blue in with a one man kit so wish me luck

Thanks again for the guide. Oh, and, yes, normal needlenose were fine - I had misjudged the scale on the pictures in the guide!

Thanks for the offer slindborg. Not needed today but I'll remember it till the fluid is in

[Whiteboy]

Just refered to this guide again. Thanks Steve.

[KurtVerbose]

This guide is a help, so thanks. Just a shame so many of the original pictures are missing. Guess I should've taken pics myself. Actually, I will do as I have the other side to do. Having just done my rear pads I recommend the guide, but read it all before you start. Also, I tried twising the caliper piston but it wouldn't go back. Tried a g clamp and that didn't work either. In the end went back to twisting as advised, keep twisting and it does go back quite easily without too much pressure. You really need to get the piston far back to get the new pads back in.

[techieboy]

And for those who find even reading a problem, here's a video of how it's done.

[Ouchie]

And for those who find even reading a problem, here's a video of how it's done.

Excellent guide even if it is on a pristine example with no rust or 10k miles of grime.

With that insight and an impact screwdriver to sort out the brake disc retaining bolt it was all quite easy.

[KurtVerbose]

Yes, that video should go right at the start of the thread.

[techieboy]

T'is done. Likewise on the front pads thread.

[smiley]

When someone showed me how to do the rears, he unbolted the allen, disconnected the hand brake cable, and flipped the caliper upwards to remove the pads. The video shows remove big bolt, and flip the caliper down. Unfortunately the video shows no handbrake cable action at all. Does the downflip not require handbrake cable disconnection?

Edited by smiley, 09 January 2011 - 10:56 PM.

[techieboy]

Just trying to think how I've done it but pretty sure I flipped it down. One thing for sure, other than when I replaced the gear selector cables, I've never disconnected the handbrake from either caliper.

[smiley]

Thanks. looks like i've been tought wrong. Good thing, as the rears need done soon

[Winstar]

And for those who find even reading a problem, here's a video of how it's done.

Excellent guide even if it is on a pristine example with no rust or 10k miles of grime.

With that insight and an impact screwdriver to sort out the brake disc retaining bolt it was all quite easy.

There's no way that method will work on a car that actually needs it brakes changing as the lip on the disk (and the fact it's normally rusted to the carrier) will prevent you from swinging the caliper back.