16 replies to this topic

[v13rac]

Couldn't find the standard setting s after searching (found plenty of alternatives though....). I need to get my tracking/geo done, as after many miles on our bumpy, pot-holed roads my steering wheel now sits slightly to the left and the car no longer tracks truely. My recent Kwik Fit has laser equipment, so should be pretty accurate, but I need to know the standard settings? Also, I know the normal jacking points under the doors, but how do I tell them how to jack up on a 4-point lift?

[garyk220]

They'll need to remove the rear undertray to access the rear jacking points for a 4 point lift (see attached piccy from Elise Service Manual) Suspension settings are on TIS CDs. I'll dig them out for you if no one posts in the next half hour or so. Will Kwik Fit check anything other than front and rear toe settings? Doubt they'll do camber or castor.

Attached Files

•  chassis_jacking_points.jpg   46.91KB   3 downloads

[garyk220]

front settings from TIS

Attached Files

•  front_suspension_settings.jpg   78.09KB   50 downloads

[garyk220]

rear settings

Attached Files

•  rear_suspension_settings.jpg   70.81KB   3 downloads

[garyk220]

PS "Positive values = toe-in, negative values = toe-out" And make sure they weight the vehicle correctly before measuring, otherwise the toe settings will be all over the place... "The values apply to vehicles with 70 kg on each front seat and a half-full fuel tank."

[v13rac]

That's great - thanks very much for the info!! Are these TIS cd's easy to get a hold of? Are they 'copyable'?

[Steve Crisp]

I've also got the following wadge of settings from various places: - OPEL/VAUXHALL FACTORY SPECS SPEEDSTER/VX220 ALIGNMENT (Valid for cars with 2 passenger (70kg each) on-board and ¾ tank full) FRONT WHEELS CAMBER: -0.06 (+0.06/-0.12) CASTER: +3.48 (+/- 0.12) TOE: -0.20 (+0.20/-0) REAR WHEELS CAMBER: -1.48 (+/- 0.12) TOE: +0.12 (+0.20/-0) Note: for TOE, a positive value will mean wheels pointing inward (converging), while negative the opposite. OPEL/VAUXHALL TIS SPECS SPEEDSTER/VX220 ALIGNMENT FRONT WHEELS CAMBER: -0.1 (+0.1/-0.2) CASTER: +3.8 (+/- 0.2) TOE: -0.03 (-0/+0.03) REAR WHEELS CAMBER: -1.8 (+/- 0.2) TOE: +1.2 (+0.20/-0) Note: for TOE, a positive value will mean wheels pointing inward (converging), while negative the opposite. General geo settings for VXT: Track: Front - Parallel Rear - in 20 /3/32 (2.5mm) Cambers: Front - 1 1/2- 1 1/2- Rear 2+ 2 Nitrons set up (road) Front 9 clicks from full stiff Rear 12 clicks from full stiff Nitrons set up (track) add 3 clicks all round Steve

[m1ke]

Anyone recomend a company who can do the cambers??? I have been into my local place (who are usually ace!) and no I have a new motor (VX N/A) they are looking a bit stumped! Firstly cos they need to remove the undertray!! And scondly because they can't do the cambers which use shims! Can anyone recomend a company which does the vx220 properly! I think vauxhall are going to want both arms and a leg for it!! I am in the South West, so if you have any ideas!! Thanks in advance! Mike

[Muncher]

Scared Stiff come highly recommended, do a search for them.

[clipping_point]

These settings are nice to have IMHO: 340R Track Settings FRONT Castor +3.8°, ±0.2° (max side/side 0.2° ) Camber -1.8°, +0.1° -0.2° Toe 0.5mm Toe OUT overall, +0.2mm -0.0 REAR Camber -2.7°, ±0.2° (max side/side 0.2° ) Toe 2.5mm toe IN, +0.2mm -0mm (max side/side 0.2mm) Nitrons set up (road) Front 9 clicks from full stiff Rear 12 clicks from full stiff Nitrons set up (track) add 3 clicks all round PS: Added Steves Nitron settings. Also more toe-out up front will make the turn-in much better, but the car slightly more nervous

[Jase_MK]

Anyone recomend a company who can do the cambers???

I have been into my local place (who are usually ace!) and no I have a new motor (VX N/A) they are looking a bit stumped!

Firstly cos they need to remove the undertray!! And scondly because they can't do the cambers which use shims!

No need to remove the undertray. The chances are - you'll want to be increasing negative camber (moving the tops of the wheels inwards) so you'll be taking the shims out, not putting them in.

It's as simple as wheel off, undo the hub bolts, remove correct number of shims, refit everything. As long as they have the gear for measuring the camber before and after it should be a piece of cake. I did read somewhere how much camber each shim is worth, but I can't remember.

If you *do* need to put more shims in, then they can't be expensive to order from VXL, and I think elise-parts sell them too.

[Muncher]

One 1mm shim is 0.25 degrees iirc

[clipping_point]

Think it is 0,5° per 1 mm shim

[the gits]

And Plans Motorsport, who will do it properly. Taking a VX to Kwik Fit for geometery is a bit like taking your VX to a local painters and decorators for a respray. www.plansmotorsport.com

[danyeates]

great thanks for digging this out for me Meldert. Which of these settings will be best to use? The car is an NA will be used everyday but has had and will have use on the track.

[cyberman]

Nitrons set up (road)
Front 9 clicks from full stiff
Rear 12 clicks from full stiff
Nitrons set up (track) add 3 clicks all round

I run 7 clicks from full stiff (-7) on the road and -5 on the front -3 on the rear for track. Different tracks require different settings. More grippy track may want more. More bouncy track may want more/less. Smooth low grip track may want less. Press on artist may need more, less aggressive track artist may need less. You have to determine what works for you.

Edited by cyberman, 20 June 2006 - 01:13 PM.

[meldert]

great thanks for digging this out for me Meldert.

Which of these settings will be best to use? The car is an NA will be used everyday but has had and will have use on the track.

No problem m8, I had the thread bookmarked

I use the 340R track settings on my car (NA) and have no problems with them on the road. Tyres are wearing quite evenly. I actually could use a bit more camber at the back when I drive on track for optimum tyre wear and grip, but I guess less body roll would be even better, but it's quite a project adding a ARB at the back wich would be an optimal addition together with a much beefier ARB at the front. I do have nitrons though.

I'ts important to check the toe settings and keep them inside the margins if you want to avoid excessive and uneven wear of the tyres.

If you find the 340R track settings too extreme atleast go for about -1.5 degrees camber at the front and -2 to -2,5 degrees camber at the back. The negative camber at the front will remove much of the understeer.

Edited by meldert, 20 June 2006 - 03:51 PM.