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Pre Cat Removal


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#41 robsrocket

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 10:34 AM

How did you manage to get it out like that? When i get my VSE i want to remove the precat but dont fancy 4hours of drilling etc. I didnt realise the precat was that big, thought it was more of a gauze type thing.

#42 JohnyB

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Posted 07 May 2006 - 11:28 AM

first i banged it a bit with a hammer and the whole thing moved down, then i took wood screw and put it in the middle and used it to pull it out. First i was using the hammer (other side which has the thingy for the nail remove) then i those cutters (on the pic - i don't know what's it called in English) and voila it was out. It was supper fast.

#43 rapidos

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Posted 09 May 2006 - 07:33 AM

Is it the same procedure for the 2.0 turbo engine please ?

#44 JohnyB

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Posted 10 May 2006 - 08:52 AM

Is it the same procedure for the 2.0 turbo engine please ?

never saw a turbo in my life :o But if it's the same why not.

#45 mark23rhodes23

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Posted 14 January 2007 - 06:22 PM

Is it the same procedure for the 2.0 turbo engine please ?

the pre cat in the turbo is before where it is on the 2.2 - its in the turbo downpipe which is harder to get to and is a sort of s shape - so getting it out in 1 piece will be hard. i'm going to give it a go this summer hopefully


mark

#46 M8VXL

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Posted 14 January 2007 - 07:40 PM


Is it the same procedure for the 2.0 turbo engine please ?

the pre cat in the turbo is before where it is on the 2.2 - its in the turbo downpipe which is harder to get to and is a sort of s shape - so getting it out in 1 piece will be hard. i'm going to give it a go this summer hopefully


mark


If your doing a turbo just buy at replacment pipe £150 from LMF and job done.

Marc

#47 VX220BOB

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 12:22 PM

Pre cat removal Jack up rear of car using the correct jacking points and make stable using stands. Remove under tray, rear left wheel and arch liner. Follow the cat sensor wires and unplug as removing the sensors can be very tight. Remove the exhaust bend to cat flange bolts, these can be very tight and corroded as you may need to cut the bolts of with a cutting disc. There is no gasket on this flange so when refitting use exhaust sealant.To remove the cat pipe nuts at the manifold you have no need to remove the manifold heat shield, but you may need to prise the shield slightly with a long bar or screw driver to allow getting the socket on the nuts. You will need a good selection of socket drive extensions and swivel joints ideally 3/8 drive. Then remove the cat pipe assembly from the manifold.Hold the cat assembly in a vice at a position so you can drill a ring of holes around the honey cone edge and the drill holes working towards the centre of the honey cone. You will need a selection of good drill bits ranging from 6 to 10mm at least 3inch drilling depth. It would help using a cooling fluid as the drills get very hot if drilling to fast. Then using a slim sharp chisel and a hammer to help remove the honey cone from the cat flange. Once the honey cone is removed remove the cat from the vice and clean out any crap dropped in to the pipe. Before refitting the cat pipe to the manifold check your gasket is ok then put a small amount of exhaust sealant to the top side of the gasket so it will stick to the manifold and stop it dropping when you are trying to refit the pipe to the manifold. Refit the 3 nuts and re bolt the cat pipe to the exhaust pipe bend using sealant then tight up all the bolts and nuts. Refit the cat sensor wires and cable tie the wires so not touching the exhaust pipes/box. Refit the wheel arch, wheel and under tray and test for the performance increase.

#48 jules_s

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Posted 02 August 2014 - 09:06 PM

Too much effort for too little gain

#49 VX220Neil

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Posted 04 August 2014 - 07:51 PM

Just done this today thanks to the guides here.

 

Acceleration feels smoother.

 

Car seems to run cooler?

 

If anything the precat substrate or whatever it is called was quite heavy. 



#50 garyyb

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Posted 29 May 2015 - 08:21 AM

 

 

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]first i banged it a bit with a hammer and the whole thing moved down, then i took [/color]wood screw[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;] [/color][color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]and put it in the middle and used it to pull it out. First i was using the hammer (other side which has the thingy for the nail remove) then i those [/color][color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]cutters[/color][color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;] [/color][color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;](on the pic - i don't know what's it called in English) and voila it was out. [/color]

[color=rgb(40,40,40);font-family:helvetica, arial, sans-serif;]It was supper fast. [/color]

 

Thumbs up for the JohnyB method - mine pulled straight out with a 5 inch wood screw and pry bar - took 2 minutes. Let's not talk about the 3 hours to get the rusty exhaust off.

 

 






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