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Cel Light


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#21 cicastol

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Posted 19 June 2005 - 09:05 AM

reset your's ECU after the installation disconnecting the battery for the night,hope this works good as mine thumbsup

#22 skogshuggarn

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Posted 21 June 2005 - 07:59 AM

Now I should have got it right :rolleyes:

The gren led is blinking even with engine running now, it didn´t do that before.

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#23 cicastol

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Posted 21 June 2005 - 09:47 AM

Now I should have got it right :rolleyes:

The gren led is blinking even with engine running now, it didn´t do that before.

Yes,the green light should be blinking with engine running thumbsup thumbsup

#24 Ricky2772

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Posted 21 June 2005 - 10:45 AM

an update: CEL light went on after 100km... :o removed the fuse, back on, CEL is off.... drove all the weekend for 350km, no probs...driving home under a downpour, CEL is on again... :angry: car is running fine, fueling is allight still, no more lean moments, so I must reckeck the white wirings, as per new Cica instructions.... thanks mate! B)

Edited by Ricky2772, 21 June 2005 - 11:08 AM.


#25 skogshuggarn

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Posted 26 June 2005 - 12:18 PM

I drove 1100km this week and still no CEL thumbsup

#26 Muncher

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Posted 26 June 2005 - 01:22 PM

Just to clarify, has everyone ordered the single output sensor from O2sim.com ?

#27 cicastol

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Posted 26 June 2005 - 01:58 PM

I drove 1100km this week and still no CEL thumbsup

thumbsup chinky chinky

#28 skogshuggarn

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Posted 26 June 2005 - 02:05 PM

Just to clarify, has everyone ordered the single output sensor from O2sim.com ?

Yes

#29 Muncher

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 11:41 AM

My CEL Light eliminator has arrived, I'm still not entirely sure on fitting... Just to be sure I am looking at the lambda sensor on the nearside rear of the car with 2 white 1 red and one grey wire coming out? I presume the photos above show people connecting it by looking in through the engine bay? I currently have the undertrays off and it looks like it is easier to do it from under the car as it immediately exists the sensor. Can someone spell out exactly what needs to be done (I am not sure which of the two white wires is which), with the aid of an MS Paint diagram please?

#30 Ricky2772

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 12:53 PM

you have to look at the black connector in the engine bay where the lambda wire-bundle connect into...the 4 wires are spreaded in-line and evenly matched, so you can figure out the correct couples; then follow the latest cicastol directions on how to cut'n match'em properly: Attach the RED O2sim +12V to the EXTERNAL white heater,all spliced togheter,Black O2sim ground to chassis,white O2sim signal to black lambda,leave the lambda signal alone (coming from kat) wrapped with tape. I thnk the skogshuggarn picture is quite explicative.... the o2sim is not visible, but would be sitting by the yellow spring where the red wire is coming... the second white wire has black tape only because he fixed a mistake, but it should be untouched. so you have to remove wheel and wheelarch, from below its impossible IMO. I just redid my connections since I had two wires inverted...the led was blinking allright, but after a while the cel would come up...now after a trackday and 180km seems fine...

Edited by Ricky2772, 25 July 2005 - 01:04 PM.


#31 Muncher

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 04:09 PM

This is how it should be?

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  • Attached File  CEL.JPG   15.42KB   0 downloads

Edited by Muncher, 25 July 2005 - 04:10 PM.


#32 skogshuggarn

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 09:59 PM

I now have almost 3000km on mine O2sim and still no CEL thumbsup Easiest to do it is if you remove your O2 sensor. Take of your left side rearwheel. disconnect o2sensor from enginebay and pull it out from inner liner, easy done. Welding it is much easier when you have it all loose. white O2sim - black (cut off) red O2sim - splice in to the outer white black O2sim - to engine grounding point (chassis) Your pic is correct! thumbsup grey and inner white on concetor should be untuched. I did some misstakes the first times that´s why i have tape on all of them, but my pic shows how it should look.

Edited by skogshuggarn, 25 July 2005 - 10:00 PM.


#33 Muncher

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 10:22 PM

Cheers, followed what was suggested tonight and it seems to be working but I haven't driven it, only idling so far. thumbsup

#34 VXJON

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Posted 22 September 2006 - 01:04 PM

Bump

I need to get one of these as my 200 cell cat is lighting up my eml, Some questions before i order one

Muncher did you ever get this working? Is the drawing ok? Do i need the single output sim(this one)? Whats the extra white wire on the sim?

#35 Muncher

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Posted 22 September 2006 - 04:43 PM

Yeah, it worked :) You need the single version. The light came on twice in about a year for unknown reasons but apart from that it has been fine.

#36 VXJON

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Posted 22 September 2006 - 04:47 PM

Nice one Muncher :D

#37 VXJON

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 07:38 PM

:( Fitted a o2 sim today as per above and after 15mile the cel came back on :( It s wired in as suggestted and when the ignition is switched on the green led comes on Can anyone help?

#38 2-20

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 10:01 PM

:( Fitted a o2 sim today as per above and after 15mile the cel came back on :(
It s wired in as suggestted and when the ignition is switched on the green led comes on


Can anyone help?


Mine (wired correctly) never worked more than 300 Kms...
You should look at the other principle i posted in your other thread

#39 urbanmac

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Posted 01 June 2007 - 06:03 PM

thread resurrection!


Got my O2sim today and have drawn out my own wiring diagram based upon reading this thread to get my head around fitting it, is this correct???

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I also ordered the Heater circuit resistor but that has not turned up yet.

Edited by urbanmac, 01 June 2007 - 06:05 PM.


#40 Steve Crisp

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 11:40 AM

Hi, Looking at the wiring of a Lamda-sensor, I would say that the grey wire to the ECU would benefit from being connected to the black-wire of the O2-sim. That ties signal-ground to the earth connection of the O2-sim. If you don't then I can see that the O2-sim signal wire may drift a little in relation to the signal-earth and maybe bring the light on. Do you need the heater wires still connected to the old sensor, or can you disconnect them without bringing on the light? It would be nice to be able to repace the old sensor with a bolt. Steve




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