73 replies to this topic

[urbanmac]

Here's what I've done so far.

Located the lambda socket in the engine bay and unplugged it. Taken near side rear wheel off and loosened the wheel arch plastic and pulled back and then pulled the lambda socket through:




I then located a grounding point for the O2sim to fix to, there is a nice handy one just inside the engine bay:




Next was to actually fit the 02sim. I noticed that my lambda which has been replaced by a Bosch one has the black and grey wires reversed to the standard one, not a problem the position of the wires in the socket is important not the colour!.

Also the red O2sim wire is spliced to the white wire, in the picture it looks like the I've joined the white wire and the red wire but the wire wire continues out of the blue connector block and then into the yellow sleeve, its just hidden in the photo.




All fitted I plugged back in the lambda and turned the ignition on and the green light FLASHES




I've now pulled the fuse for the ECU to make it reset, this will make the light go out but to test fully you have to put some miles on the car could be 40 could be 400!

Edit:

Car is all back together and no EML (lets hope it lasts!)

Hi,

Looking at the wiring of a Lamda-sensor, I would say that the grey wire to the ECU would benefit from being connected to the black-wire of the O2-sim. That ties signal-ground to the earth connection of the O2-sim.

If you don't then I can see that the O2-sim signal wire may drift a little in relation to the signal-earth and maybe bring the light on.

Do you need the heater wires still connected to the old sensor, or can you disconnect them without bringing on the light? It would be nice to be able to repace the old sensor with a bolt.

Steve

Steve,

I see you point but others have just connected the O2sim black wire to the chassis.

Not sure about your question, I have ordered the heat resistor option as well but it did not turn up at the same time as the 02sim. It seems others have fitted just the 02sim and others both the O2sim and the heater resistor, but as you say if you fit both you are effectively by passing the lambda totally and it could be removed and a bolt put in (I think!)

Edited by urbanmac, 02 June 2007 - 02:47 PM.

[VXJON]

Well done mac your pics should make it easier for anyone looking to fit a sim

[Steve Crisp]

[/quote] Steve, I see you point but others have just connected the O2sim black wire to the chassis. [/quote] Yes, but some people still have trouble with the light coming on. It's no good having an O2-sim giving a signal in milli-volts and it not referenced correctly. A car is the most hostile environments for such a device. [/quote] Not sure about your question, I have ordered the heat resistor option as well but it did not turn up at the same time as the 02sim. It seems others have fitted just the 02sim and others both the O2sim and the heater resistor, but as you say if you fit both you are effectively by passing the lambda totally and it could be removed and a bolt put in (I think!) [/quote] I've since seen that the ECU does a heater-check now and then. You either need the old O2 sensor still connected, or use the heater-resistor you've bought - in which case you can get rid of the sensor entirely. Steve

[urbanmac]

Well done mac your pics should make it easier for anyone looking to fit a sim

lots of people have given me advice so I thought I'd repay the help back

[urbanmac]

Steve,

I see you point but others have just connected the O2sim black wire to the chassis.


Yes, but some people still have trouble with the light coming on. It's no good having an O2-sim giving a signal in milli-volts and it not referenced correctly. A car is the most hostile environments for such a device.



Not sure about your question, I have ordered the heat resistor option as well but it did not turn up at the same time as the 02sim. It seems others have fitted just the 02sim and others both the O2sim and the heater resistor, but as you say if you fit both you are effectively by passing the lambda totally and it could be removed and a bolt put in (I think!)


I've since seen that the ECU does a heater-check now and then. You either need the old O2 sensor still connected, or use the heater-resistor you've bought - in which case you can get rid of the sensor entirely.


Steve

Well after about 60 miles the EML came back on with the same error code P0420.

So I need to as you suggest connect the black wire of the 02 Sim to the the lambda sensor but which wire? Please ignore the colours and go on position in the socket as my wire colours are different due to it being a 3rd party lambda

The heat resistor also turned up and I have connected as below, then cleared the EML codest and went for a few miles drive, the resistor did not get hot though so have I connected it correctly? I assumed it did not matter which wire from the heat resistor when to the other wires as they were both white and its just a resistor so no plus or negative.

Edited by urbanmac, 05 June 2007 - 07:31 PM.

[Steve Crisp]

Hi Urbanmac, Your diagram I believe shows the lambda-sensor socket with its two white wires and the black one and the grey one. Am I right in therefore assuming that if I followed the wires down your diagram (and off the page), that I would reach the actual O2-sensor that you want to simulate? If that's the case, then the resistor you've bought is meant to simulate the heater element within the lambda-sensor. You therefore need to cut the two white wires at the mid-way point between the old lambda-sensor and the socket. You then attach one end of the resistor to one of the white wires coming from the car-harness, and atttach the other end of the resistor to the other white wire coming from the car-harness. The red-wire coming from the O2-sim needs to remain on the white wire that you've used already to feed the o2-sim its 12 volts. After doing the above, you should end up with one white wire coming from the car socket that has one end of the resistor attached plus the red wire that was already on there, and the other white wire coming from the car that attaches to the other end of the resistor. You have the white wire from the O2-sim already connected correctly to the cut grey-wire of the old sensor. You have the black wire from the O2-sim connected correctly to the chassis, but also cut the black wire from the old sensor and also attach this to the chassis earth-point. There are no connections on to the old lambda sensor now, so you could now replace the old sensor with a bolt - if so inclined! All the above is what I have surmised based on reading the thread. I haven't seen any fitting instructions at all. I'm off to Portugal for a few days tomorrow, but I'll try to follow your progress from there. Rgds, Steve

[urbanmac]

Hi Urbanmac,

Your diagram I believe shows the lambda-sensor socket with its two white wires and the black one and the grey one. Am I right in therefore assuming that if I followed the wires down your diagram (and off the page), that I would reach the actual O2-sensor that you want to simulate?

Yes, you are correct.

If that's the case, then the resistor you've bought is meant to simulate the heater element within the lambda-sensor. You therefore need to cut the two white wires at the mid-way point between the old lambda-sensor and the socket. You then attach one end of the resistor to one of the white wires coming from the car-harness, and atttach the other end of the resistor to the other white wire coming from the car-harness. The red-wire coming from the O2-sim needs to remain on the white wire that you've used already to feed the o2-sim its 12 volts. After doing the above, you should end up with one white wire coming from the car socket that has one end of the resistor attached plus the red wire that was already on there, and the other white wire coming from the car that attaches to the other end of the resistor.

You have the white wire from the O2-sim already connected correctly to the cut grey-wire of the old sensor.

You have the black wire from the O2-sim connected correctly to the chassis, but also cut the black wire from the old sensor and also attach this to the chassis earth-point.

There are no connections on to the old lambda sensor now, so you could now replace the old sensor with a bolt - if so inclined!


All the above is what I have surmised based on reading the thread. I haven't seen any fitting instructions at all.

I'm off to Portugal for a few days tomorrow, but I'll try to follow your progress from there.

Rgds,


Steve

Thanks Steve, I can see where I've gone wrong now

my new layout looks like this:




Enjoy your trip and thanks again for your help

[Steve Crisp]

Hi, Yes, the diagram looks right now. Steve

[Pipo]

I'm a little puzzled here . These are the facts: The 2 white wires coming from the socket are the + and - 12VDC supply for the heater. The black wire is the signal-PLUS connection. The grey wire is the signal-GROUND connection. Yet, you connect the black wire to the chassis (which is grounded) And you connect the signal-plus output from your sim to the grey wire ??? I would think it has to be the other way around

[urbanmac]

I'm a little puzzled here .

These are the facts:
The 2 white wires coming from the socket are the + and - 12VDC supply for the heater.
The black wire is the signal-PLUS connection.
The grey wire is the signal-GROUND connection.

Yet, you connect the black wire to the chassis (which is grounded)
And you connect the signal-plus output from your sim to the grey wire ???

I would think it has to be the other way around

Pipo - ignore the colour of the black and grey wires and look at the position they are in as my current lambda is a Bosch one and the grey and black wires are as in the diagram while on the original lambda they are the other way around.

My Lambda from left to right has the wires in this colour order
White White Grey Black

While the original Lambda has the wires in this colour order
White White Black Grey

[Crimson_Killa]

Just ordered one to go with the straight through cat pipe im doing the diagram above will be invaluble!

[urbanmac]

well mine is all wired up although I have not cut the wires to the Lambda just spliced everything apart from the one I cut earlier (lambda wire). The resistor now gets hot after a drive at the moment its just hanging by the wires as I'm not sure were to mount it

[VXJON]

I mounted mine on the silver insulation of the boot bulkhead just below the vents, seems to be fine

[urbanmac]

I mounted mine on the silver insulation of the boot bulkhead just below the vents, seems to be fine

yep mounted mine there as well

However the light came on again this morning!! Might be a different code I'll check tonight.

Edited by urbanmac, 03 July 2007 - 08:15 AM.

[urbanmac]

I'm a little puzzled here .

These are the facts:
The 2 white wires coming from the socket are the + and - 12VDC supply for the heater.
The black wire is the signal-PLUS connection.
The grey wire is the signal-GROUND connection.

Yet, you connect the black wire to the chassis (which is grounded)
And you connect the signal-plus output from your sim to the grey wire ???

I would think it has to be the other way around

hmmmm thinking about it you may be correct as my universal sensor has the grey and black wires in a different order to the original part but if keeping to the colours rather than position then they must be correct way around when they reach the pins.

I was going on the position of the wires in the socket rather than the colour.

Edited by urbanmac, 03 July 2007 - 09:34 AM.

[Leops33]

I am French, I have Opel Speedster NA, the catalyst is removed and I thus have the indicator of lit I ordered O2 simulator, and I made the same one connection that you, but the indicator ignites at the end of 10min rolling who can help me?

Edited by Leops33, 09 July 2007 - 08:44 AM.

[urbanmac]

I am French, I have Opel Speedster NA, the catalyst is removed and I
thus have the indicator of lit I ordered O2 simulator, and I made the
same one connection that you, but the indicator ignites at the end of
10min rolling

who can help me?

Have you also got the resistor?

[Leops33]

no, I don't have this resistance ... an other man on Myspeedster use only the o2 simulator on his Speedster NA, and no Cel light I will check again my connection wire this afternoon ...

[urbanmac]

Ok, firstly you could try erasing the fault code so the light goes out then and see what happens, if may not come on again. If it does I think you will need the resistor as this will totally remove the need for the Lambda sensor.

[Crimson_Killa]

I fitted mine this weekend (including the resistor) Need to move the earth as didnt see the one on the pic above (at the top of page 3) so mine is currently on the main earth from the engine, no worries though will sort it tonight. Used my odb/tech2 thingy with scantool.net software (that was a triumph for me getting that working! Cleared the only error code (the o2 sensor one) all running fine and no return of the eml for the last 100 miles! woot