Et voila!
The discs are actually stamped Pagid (found it now), but i guess anyone could stamp it for them
Posted 25 January 2014 - 06:47 PM
Posted 25 January 2014 - 06:47 PM
I'm missing pics of your car on grass James.
Posted 25 January 2014 - 06:55 PM
Mr Gumby question moment but what other benefits apart from weight?
Aluminium isn't a very good heat conductor, so less heat from the disc is transferred to wheel and hub.
The wheel and hub have a significant mass (around 10Kg depending upon wheels, and front or back) and store heat which takes a long time to cool. If you can keep the heat in the disc it will cool (and heat up) much faster.
Thats the theory. The reality, is that a 3Kg unsprung mass is a nice saving and its a bit of bling
Posted 25 January 2014 - 06:55 PM
I'm missing pics of your car on grass James.
i'll get you one soon.
Though the neighbours builder has taken my patch of grass outside the front of the house.
Posted 26 January 2014 - 10:29 AM
they the right way round? which way are the internal channels going?
Edited by chris_uk, 26 January 2014 - 10:29 AM.
Posted 26 January 2014 - 10:36 AM
they do look nice mr JG
but not sure I want to spend so much to lose 3 Kg
well maybe one day I might
Edited by vocky, 26 January 2014 - 10:36 AM.
Posted 26 January 2014 - 11:05 AM
Can you remember what the weight of the original 288 discs were? I seem to remember it being in this thread but I'm not going back through 76 pages
Surely the 288's weigh less than the 308's with ali bells, especially if you throw in the weight of the larger calliper. Which would mean the only advantage over standard brakes is the bling
Posted 26 January 2014 - 11:17 AM
They are the right way round
Neil, not as expensive as a full on AP solution. Total cost is around £370
Gedi, orignal 288s weigh 7.7kg
http://www.vx220.org...sk-weight-info/
so these are a 1.2kg saving on a standard disc despite being larger
Posted 26 January 2014 - 12:01 PM
FYI In terms of the right way round for the J Hooks... when fitting mine I spent ages researching to ensure they were on the right way... I found an AP racing fact sheet that proved that the way the hooks are facing were correct... and they are the same way as JG's. I have however seen them facing that way and the other way on a number of cars including Britcar and GT racers. Guess therefore that it doesn't matter too much. I know you were talking more about the veins than the J Hooks but thought it may be of interest anyway
Posted 29 January 2014 - 05:39 PM
Do rotors need to be bedded in carefully? or can i go to stowe in a week and just abuse them?
Posted 29 January 2014 - 06:32 PM
You're supposed to bed them in. ~1000 miles of careful driving, pretty much the exact opposite of going to stowe
Posted 29 January 2014 - 06:36 PM
...and the complete opposite of how you bed pads in, which generally get changed when you get new rotors
Posted 29 January 2014 - 07:39 PM
You're supposed to bed them in. ~1000 miles of careful driving, pretty much the exact opposite of going to stowe
1000miles?!?
He'd never bed them in before retiring them.
Posted 29 January 2014 - 08:06 PM
Posted 29 January 2014 - 08:08 PM
I'm sticking to my current pads which I've ran over a glass sanding surface. I'll change to new pads after stowe...and the complete opposite of how you bed pads in, which generally get changed when you get new rotors
Posted 29 January 2014 - 08:16 PM
Posted 29 January 2014 - 09:58 PM
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