44 replies to this topic

[jonnyboy]

looks like a professional job there m8 you've obviously thought things through properly before starting it. I can see why you've fitted it if your driving the car every day, there is the odd time the VX can catch you out you only have to look at the number of CAT C and Ds about to know that. I would consider one if I used the VX more.

[rik]

Couldn't connect to it with laptop, so I am assuming it has broken somehow. It's in the post back to racelogic for them to check it themselves. Hopefully I'll have it back and working for the weekend.

[tmorganb]

We've just fitted 2 Race Logic system this, it's a pita job and takes hours.

nice guide, going to have to do similar soon myself... got a DTA race ECU to fit, has launch and traction control on it.... more wires... no seriously they same wires will do for both.

[oblomov]

Nice guide rik . Paul having a laptop to do the set up on mine was a big Hope you get the probs sorted soon. The advantage of having this system is that in the cold (when the tyres are less sticky and loose traction) and in the wet, you can (and this is especially so in a staged tubby) just floor out of tighter corners in the lower gears and you don't have to worry about the back end coming around to meet you. It won't overcome the laws of physics tho' so if you're too fast into a roundabout etc it won't save your blushes. I mainly drive on 2 settings, 0% slip in the wet/damp, and 10% in the dry and tend to forget about it except when it cuts a cylinder or two out of a roundabout or junction, and just for a sec I wonder why the car is mis-firing before I remember the TC The main reason I put it on the car was for wet driving (which I don't do a lot of) but, when I do it's mainly on windy A roads and I found I just couldn't push as hard as I would have liked out of tight and narrow 2nd/rd gear corners because of the car's tendency to bite very hard when the limit is passed. The system has saved me on 2 occasions, once over enthusiasm , and the second, diesel on the road so I consider it's paid for itself already. Like rik I intend to take it off the car when I sell because it's an expensive piece of kit but well worth it IMHO judging by the number of people who report coming to grief here each winter. Like Thorney says it's a pita job, and I have to thank him for the advice he gave me when fitting.

[rik]

Just been going through car papers, as I needed to buy a new tax disc. Thought I'd phone admiral (my insurance) to check that traction control was ok. They say that its ok, but I'd have to pay an extra £54 but could be worse I suppose. Also, they will only replace the car with a standard car should the unspeakable happen (I suppose that means I should rip the TC out by the side of the road and keep it?). It's a bit of a bitch, but I was prepared for much worse than £54 hehe. Other TC-ers, what did it cost you? (if you were honest with them). Gone a bit off-topic here, but I'm bored waiting for it to come back

[oblomov]

Just been going through car papers, as I needed to buy a new tax disc. Thought I'd phone admiral (my insurance) to check that traction control was ok. They say that its ok, but I'd have to pay an extra £54 but could be worse I suppose. Also, they will only replace the car with a standard car should the unspeakable happen (I suppose that means I should rip the TC out by the side of the road and keep it?). It's a bit of a bitch, but I was prepared for much worse than £54 hehe. Other TC-ers, what did it cost you? (if you were honest with them). Gone a bit off-topic here, but I'm bored waiting for it to come back

I went through that when looking for quotes when renewing my insurance. My (still present) company Privilege didn't charge me any extra when I told them about it and simply stated it was an 'after market traction control safety device which prevented the wheels from spinning.

When I was checking for quotes at renewal time I made what I think was a mistake when I quoted the name of the system as 'Racelogic' and I think the 'race' part of the name had a negative effect on insurers because it implied 'speed' and an association with 'racing' rather than safety So if I go for quotes again next year I will just call it traction control and not offer further detail unless asked for them.

[djegiant]

Small point that you may want to consider matey, the crimp connectors you are using are cheap rubbish and will allow moisture/corrosion into vital parts of your FI loom and ABS loom. Not clever. Maybe use them initially while getting it all working/setup, but then a change to soldered and heatshinked connections would give the TC and the car a better chance of lasting long term. When moisture gets into narrow gauge cabling, a black oxide will form very quickly, increasing resistance and making future repairs very difficult. At the very least get some proper waterproof connectors and give them a good soaking in sillicone grease. HTH.

[Arno]

Perhaps talk to these guys and get some weatherproof connectors:

http://www.simtekuk....o.php?p=6&pno=0

Bye, Arno.

[rik]

Perhaps talk to these guys and get some weatherproof connectors:

http://www.simtekuk....o.php?p=6&pno=0

Bye, Arno.

cool, always wondered where to get those type of connectors

[jasvxt]

Bump hows it going Rik ? Rs Jas

[rik]

they only just sent it back, i should have it tomorrow. They said at first it wasn't working but then they said that it was working fine and it might be my diagnostic cable faulty anyway, we will soon see.

[rik]

its in and working. didn't take any pics.. will do at weekend. p.s. why is there so many police around at night

[djegiant]

p.s. why is there so many police around at night

Something to do with scumbags being predominantly nocturnal I think matey.

[rik]

part 2

This was done before the TC unit freaked out and stopped working.

Wiring it into the ABS.

The ABS ecu is located above the dirvers side front wheel.



There is a chunky connector going into it which can be disconnected. Peel back some of the cable wrapping to reveal the wires going in. You need to find the following wires:
Yellow - font left wheel
Grey - front right
Violet - rear left
Red - rear right




Using the same type of 3-way splitter cable, I proceeded to wire it into the front left wheel (yellow).




Because racelogic used different colour coded wires that what's used in the vx, the yellow wire attaches to the red wire of the TC loom, and so for the other wires:
Yellow -> Red
Grey -> Blue
Violet -> Yellow
Red -> Green


I then tested it was working by putting the slip ajustor to WET, which is diagnostic mode for the front left wheel (yellow/red wire). This means, that when the front left wheel turns, the diagnostic LED (green led) will flash at a rate, indicating the speed of the wheel. Jacked the car up, turned ignition to on, and rotated the wheel by hand. Sure enough, the led started flashing very slowly. So I proceeded to wire the other 3 abs sensors in.




Final test that the abs was wired in correctly, I went for a drive. Stuck the TC ABS cable to the side of the car (putting the cable in properly is another (BIG) job. And stuck the slip ajustor into the cabin (it just reached, stuck to the right of the drivers seat head. Stuck the diagnostic LED onto the rear bonnet so I could see it from the rear view mirror.




Drove a short while around my local streets. Switched the slip ajustor to the various settings (wet, dry, 10%, 15%) to view the speed of each wheel. All working fine. Decided to test that the ABS still worked. It was wet, so quite easy to trigger the abs at low speed. ABS kicked in fine. After it kicked in, I noticed that the LED wasn't flashing anymore, and it was constantly on. I switched the slip ajustor to all settings and the LED was always constantly on (wasnt showing the wheel speeds or rpm). Returned home, and no matter what I tried I couldn't get it back to flashing normally. Next day, I connected it to a laptop to see if I could connect (It has a diagnostic software, which uses a RS232 (serial cable) to set and view settings, but this didnt connect either.

So back to racelogic it went. And approx 1.5 weeks later I got it back, they said it was all working fine and they couldn't see any problems Ok I said, send it back (they made me pay for postage as nothing was wrong). Plugged it in again, turned ignition on (green light didnt come on - GOOD), tried to connect with laptop - connected straight away . Thank fook for that. Tested abs again, and everything continued working fine this time. So in the end, I have no idea what was wrong with it.

More to come at weekend!

Edited by rik, 14 December 2006 - 10:42 AM.

[rik]

uninterupted version at http://www.machineon...=blog&blogid=8

[vx220bass]

Hi,
I will be installing a Racelogic traction control system in my VXT in the new year. I have some questions that I hope people might be able to help with.

• Does anybody have the guide with pictures as they have disappeared off the thread and the external link is now dead?
  
• Is there a guide for the VXT? What are the differences for installation?
  
• What size/type cables and connectors do people advise for installation?
  
• Since the original thread where have people discovered is the best place to install the control box, I have read of it being positioned next to the ECU on the boot, behind the seats or in/under the dash?
  
• Was a plug and play loom ever created for the VXT as per the post below by rik?

I'm about to make a plug and play loom for installing the RLTC since some other members asked me about it
I've had it on mine for years but it is a bit of a pain to fit (PnP kit will mae it very easy). I'll keep you all posted

• There a reported issue with ABS noise but a filter has been created. I have found the below post but is there a wiring diagram available to DIY a filter?

Very true indeed!

btw. I invented the filter you mentioned in the beginning of 2011 and already sold some 40 pieces during two group buys of the TC here in germany. Also had intense mail contact with Mike Broadbent at Racelogic. He told me that Lotus Elise type of cars all suffer from noise issues below 30...40 km/h and he was rather impressed when I presented him my results with the filter, being able to have the TC activated from 10 km/h up having no noise issues anymore.

If anyone is interested, the filter is now officially sold by Martin Arnet, Tuneconcept in Wiesbaden, germany. He deals with lots of Lotus and VX parts, does rather good prices and is very fast and trusty. He speaks english fluently. -> info@tuneconcept.de

Thanks,

Julian

After reading (what I think is) all of the threads on here with Racelogic traction control system referenced I thought I’d add this thread link into the tutorial as it has a bit of discussion regarding the Traction control system: http://www.vx220.org...action-control/

[trevvx220]

Hi i have fitted Racelogic to my VX220 2.2na. I have some pics that i can Email. I installed the system behind the rear pannel inside the car. This is a good place as it do's not get wet and is great for the ECU and the injector wires do not need to be extended. A computer 9pin serial lead found on Ebay can be used to link the display to the front of the car.

[vx220bass]

Thanks PM'd my email

[cs_]

This is the complete wiring diagram into the VX220 showing TC with FTS and DA. In my opinion the wiring is the most important. I would consider mounting the ECU behind the seats. There's lots of space behind the speakers. There is a version with a long ABS loom available from Racelogic, you just have to tell them you've got a rear engine car and they will send you extra long harness. I think it's a good idea keeping the injector cables as short as possible, there are significant switched currents on these lines with timing constraints. The ABS inputs on the other side are high impedance, there's almost no current flowing and the signal frequency is rather low. Putting the TC into your car is one thing. Getting it to work really flawless is another thing. Spent a lot of time optimizing the ABS signal feeds until the system worked really fine. For connectors I emphasize you to use Tyco/AMP Superseal with the correct crimping tool. These make waterproof connections.

Edited by cs_, 16 December 2012 - 04:09 PM.

[haggi961]

Anyone have this guide saved as all the pictures have gone?