21 replies to this topic

[SteveA]

This guide explains how to replace the idler bracket on your VXT for the modified one. The guide assumes you have basic mechanical knowledge but is simple enough to be followed by all. If it all goes wrong don’t blame me. The job takes about an hour from start to finish. Before you begin you will need;

E12 & E14 Torx sockets
8mm regular socket
5mm hex bit (or Allen key)
Ratchet & Extension bars
Small flat head driver
A Trolley jack
A pair of wheel ramps
The revised idler bracket #93183526
A new poly V belt

Start by jacking up the rear of the car at the designated jacking points and supporting the wheels with the ramps (you can reverse the car onto them but it’s not as easy as it sounds).

Next remove the middle under tray by unscrewing the 5 M5 bolts that connect it to the rear under tray using the 8mm socket. Remove the 6 M5 bolts (3 on each side) of the middle tray. Finally take out the two M8 bolts in the centre using the 5mm hex bit. Take the tray off and move it out of the way for now.

Underneath the car with the tray off you can now see the v belt assembly on the driver’s side of the engine.



It is looped around four wheels, from the bottom clockwise; drive wheel, alternator, tensioner pulley and the ac idler pulley. The ac idler pulley sits on the end of the idler bracket.



The bracket is attached to the block by three Torx bolts. Use the E12 socket to unscrew the two bolts closest to the idler wheel first (#1 shown in photo above, the other is behind the pole attached to the wheel) and then finally the one furthest away (Rear bolt is just visible in background of photo). Now the bracket is free of the block, unthread the v belt and remove the bracket assembly from the engine bay (this can be a bit tricky because of the limited space).



Remove the old v belt and replace it with the new one, threading it around the wheels the same way as the old one.



With the bracket removed, use a small flat head screwdriver to pop off the black cap on the end of the wheel. Use the E14 Torx socket to unbolt the wheel from the bracket.



As you can see by the picture the old and revised brackets are very similar but the new one is slightly larger. Bolt the wheel onto the new bracket and put it back into the engine bay (leave off the cap for now).

Refitting the bracket is the hard part as the belt is very tight and only stretches a little. The easiest way I found to re-fit is to attach the E14 Torx socket to a small extension bar (about 2”) and fit it onto the bolt that secures the idler wheel to the bracket, place the bracket so it touches the bottom of the tensioner wheel and thread on the v belt. With one hand on the socket and extension and the other holding the bracket push upwards until the bracket is in position. Loose bolt the front two E12’s with your hand then slowly tighten them up evenly with the ratchet, this will bring the bracket in line for the furthest away bolt. Screw in the last bolt and tighten them all to secure the bracket.

That’s it now refit the cap on the end of the idler wheel and refit the under tray.

[mikemph]

Is there a way you can tell if you have the upgraded one or the old one? Was this problem resolved on any perticular year? I noticed a few times that sound as if the alternator belt is starting to slip very slightly when cold making a sort of twittering sound is the best way I can describe it. Makes me wonder if the idler bracket could be causing this may be.

[SteveA]

Any VXT vin number after 7200 was sorted at production, mine is around 6800.

[chris]

Best solution is to simplify the system and remove all these useless pulley :

Edited by chris, 28 March 2007 - 12:26 AM.

[mikemph]

lucky me No 7344 thanks Steve

[Tinhead]

A good guide but some people might find it easier to refit the new pulley before you fit the new belt, then put the belt on last. If you put a socket on the end of the tensioner you can lift it up and make enough slack to slip the belt on quite easily. That short belt is a good idea Chris, or am i missing something obvious When you look at the diagram its at least 2 1/2 longer than it needs to be.

[chris]

A good guide but some people might find it easier to refit the new pulley before you fit the new belt, then put the belt on last.
If you put a socket on the end of the tensioner you can lift it up and make enough slack to slip the belt on quite easily.

That short belt is a good idea Chris, or am i missing something obvious
When you look at the diagram its at least 2 1/2 longer than it needs to be.

You are right : half weight




Half lenght !

Edited by chris, 28 March 2007 - 12:19 PM.

[Arno]

That short belt is a good idea Chris, or am i missing something obvious

It does mean you lose the automatic belt tensioner and need to put the correct tension on the belt using the alternator bracket adjustment.

Should be no big problem if it can be adjusted, just needs a little more care and attention when fitting and may need some adjustment during the life of the belt to compensate for stretch.

Just a little less 'fit and forget' than the original setup.

Bye, Arno.

[cheeky_chops]

its hardly fit and forget atm, i have had mine replaced 3 times!! And it needs replacing again....

[chris]

That short belt is a good idea Chris, or am i missing something obvious

It does mean you lose the automatic belt tensioner and need to put the correct tension on the belt using the alternator bracket adjustment.

Should be no big problem if it can be adjusted, just needs a little more care and attention when fitting and may need some adjustment during the life of the belt to compensate for stretch.

Just a little less 'fit and forget' than the original setup.

Bye, Arno.

You are right, but with this modification you can save 3,2 kg ...
(and no pb with adjdustment of the other pulleys, only belt tension to be checked and adjust all 5-6000 km)

[jasvxt]

Chris interesting idea, have you done this yourself? and if so do you have the part no for the revised shorter belt, as you appear to have one in your photos. Thanks Jas PS Anyone else tried this shorter belt mod ?

[chris]

Yes it is a DIY modif. But you have to build a "manual" tensioner for generator (like in a prehistoric time of car or like in first Rover engine installed in Lotus). I think that generic belt reference is a Poly V 5 PK 903 or 905 (last figures are belt lenght)

[colgy]

If you have a pre-7200 tubby, do you reckon its a good idea to have the bracket replaced at the 4 year/40k belt change? Had no problems so far, but you never know! I wonder if vauxhall would cover some of the cost? Maybe some consumer rights apply (fit for purpose/ last a resonable time)?

[SteveA]

Vauxhall will deny that it is a problem. TBH they didn't even know about the revised idler bracket untill I gave them a part number. If it isnt slipping tho I whould leave it as is.

[Guy182]

Any VXT vin number after 7200 was sorted at production, mine is around 6800.

ah bollocks mine is 7065..

and ive just found 10cm of one of the V's out the belt resting on my inlet manifold!

[denno]

Ive had this slipping belt noise so have ordered the modified bracket but my build number is after 7200 so i should have the modded bracket on already shouldnt i?Guess i'll no for sure when the new bracket goes on and see if the noise stops!

[Westyman]

I had my bracket checked at my first service. It is the revised one. Chassis number of my car is *7793 John

[Guy182]

i went into my dealer and they had the parts catalogue up and they said there ar eno notes about it being a new or revised part... and it came out at 150 odd i think

[denno]

i went into my dealer and they had the parts catalogue up and they said there ar eno notes about it being a new or revised part...

and it came out at 150 odd i think

I got similar quotes from a number of dealers and they didnt seem to no it was a revised or modified bracket either.Ordered one from autovaux in the end for £50 inc vat and delivery.

[Dave E]

Shredded my belt at Bedford Friday night doing approx 130 down the back straight, bit of a wake up call! My own fault, it had been squeaking for some time now but didn't get round to changing it. Luckily only missed last 20 mins, bad thing, only got half way home before it died Where's best place to get a belt-fast as possible-and how much should I be looking to pay for one. One last thing, is the revised idler done under warranty or will it make my wallet even lighter. p.s my tubby is less than three years old and done under 12k. Dave

Edited by VXT'ED, 09 September 2007 - 05:46 PM.