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Guide To Changing Spark Plugs


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#1 n1k_ns

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 07:38 PM

Hi,

Although its very easy, since i took afew pics i thought i'd post a quick guide of how to change the sparkplugs in a VX.

I came to change mine last week and i didn't have a clue where to start (never done it before on any car :rolleyes: )

First i realised that the spark plug socket that i already had was miles too big so i went down to Halfrauds to pick up a new one:

The one i used was 16mm Deep x 10mm:

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Now, onto accessing the plugs, just remove the screws from the top of the coil pack:

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Then lift the whole coil pack out, i didnt disconnect it, i just rested it in the engine bay:

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Then using the spark plug socket and the ratchet spanner, remove the spark plugs. Mine were very hard to remove, especially the far right one that showed signs of water ingress.

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Here is my old plug next to the new one (i used genuine GM ones and they were approx £17.00)

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Then simply do the reverse, :) Remember not to overtighten the sparkplugs!

Job Done thumbsup

#2 Spindoctor

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 08:06 PM

Good post thumbsup Sticky.

#3 mandarinvx

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 08:11 PM

Great guide mate thumbsup Add it into the stickies :) That socket looks much deeper than 16mm tho :blink: :D I'll have to do mine when I put the polished cam cover on (would be rude not to really!)

#4 Scotsdave

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 08:19 PM

When I did mine I removed the 4 rubber parts and cleaned the tips of the coil with emery paper as some of them had rust on them from water ingress.

#5 n1k_ns

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 08:33 PM


That socket looks much deeper than 16mm tho :blink: :D

I'll have to do mine when I put the polished cam cover on (would be rude not to really!)


Cheers mate,

I think the 16mm is the deepness of the middle part that actually slots over the spark plug :huh: not sure but the packet definatley said 10mm/16mm :)

#6 Winstar

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 08:57 PM

What torque do you need tighten them to?

#7 LY_Scott

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 09:02 PM

When I did mine I removed the 4 rubber parts and cleaned the tips of the coil with emery paper as some of them had rust on them from water ingress.


you smart boy. I did that too. One thing I will say the contact with the plugs and coil pack connectors is pretty unconvincing. Anyone know a way of making them click nicely?

Scott.

#8 mandarinvx

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 09:18 PM

What torque do you need tighten them to?

20Nm in the tis, so 'tightish' thumbsup :)

#9 SamVx

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Posted 20 June 2007 - 07:50 AM

Just about to do mine so thanks for the guide - very useful! I got some of the NGK platinum ones, hope they're good.

Edited by SamVx, 20 June 2007 - 07:51 AM.


#10 MAP18W

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Posted 20 June 2007 - 08:53 AM

I got some of the NGK platinum ones, hope they're good.

I'm using the NGK Platinum plugs in my Z22SE supercharged engine and have had no problems with them, they work fine.
Just make sure the plugs aren't overtightened and plenty of coppergrease is used on installation as we've seen heads crack when plugs have been overtightened and then subsequently removed.

#11 john_s

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Posted 20 June 2007 - 11:52 AM


What torque do you need tighten them to?

20Nm in the tis, so 'tightish' thumbsup :)


So that's a small "ugh", not a full blown grunt then? :D

#12 Flanners

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Posted 08 December 2007 - 08:17 AM

Changing my plugs at 19981miles! 4 NGK laser platinum plugs for £11.98 del bargain!

Nice guide cheers!

Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.co.u...bayphotohosting

This is useful as well:

Id also like to add this little nugget of information. The spark plugs were the FIRST thing to be changed in the service. The car was only sat for 10 minutes from fully hot before they were changed (the time to eat a small fish & chips actually!) Ive now read on the staurn forums amongst many other places that the engine should be COLD (below 40C maximum) before the plugs are changed. When the mechanic showed me the plugs they were very hot to touch and you could only hold them for 2 seconds, denoting they were at least 70 degrees C (i know this from 'feeling' CPU heat sinks!). Putting cold plugs in a contracting engine could be catastrophic no, especially aluminium!?

Edited by Flanners, 08 December 2007 - 08:27 AM.


#13 Chris P Duck

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 10:40 AM

Really got my shovel out here. This last one about the engineer being cold. Any truth to that? I need to change my plugs and I'm shitting myself. Serious water ingress has meant they are very very rusty and I really don't want to crack the head. Every other day for the last week I've got the engine up to temp then sprayed penetrating (snigger) oil in. But when I actually come to remove them I thought it would have been better with the engine as hit as possible (expanded) then leave for the engine to cool before installing the new ones?

#14 vocky

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 10:48 AM

if you are worried about cold plugs then warm them up before fitting them, personally I fit plugs when the engine is cold or luke warm

#15 Chris P Duck

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 11:15 AM

It's more getting the old ones out I'm worried about. So is it better for releasing the old ones to remove when the engines hot or cold?

#16 Andrew aka Stuwy

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 02:24 PM

its only a problem getting the old ones out if they have been put in too tight..

#17 Mangham54

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 08:06 AM

good guide

#18 walkes

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 12:42 PM

anyone got a good method to cleaning the crap out of the hole, that has covered the spark plug nut ?



#19 VX220BOB

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 07:57 PM

A poke with a bit of wire, blow with a airline and suck out with a hoover.






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