58 replies to this topic

[Ricky2772]

correction: the allen bolts of the surrounding fuel cap MUST be removed, the ali surround itself can stay on the clam. here is the massive-mess of hoses, canisters and connectors that make-up the fuel breathing/non-pollution bullshit... they even went to the extreme to use a 4-feet long hose (the one with the red-striping) to reach the intake side, insead of using a 5cm long bit on the same side....

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[Ricky2772]

this is the trimmed down exhaust shielding (-1,1kg) plenty enough for my supe-small komo-tec system. can see the kat-bypass as well...

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[clipping_point]

OK, pic 3 rollbar plastic bit, piccy. Where are the 2 8 mm bolts. In the wheel arch, in the passanger compartment?? At the head rests? Is it a Allen key or what??

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[Ricky2772]

they are tucked at the end of the plastic thing corners, fromt the OUTSIDE. very small and hard to reach somewhat. you will need a flat 8mm hex key.

Edited by Ricky2772, 26 November 2004 - 05:56 AM.

[clipping_point]

So you use a spanner andthe bolts are at the blue arrow??

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[clipping_point]

This is the hole, I guess

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[clipping_point]

In this piccy the screw is pointing inwards, towards the engine



It seems the actual direction is "from inside the cockpit, towards the wheelhouse" in the next piccy


Correct??


....sorry that screw does not exist in my car, after the crash. It seems they have glued that part together!!

Edited by clipping_point, 28 November 2004 - 09:12 AM.

[Ricky2772]

ok, just came back frome cote d'azure and I see your mess.... about the 8mm bolt, that little bracket gets detached easily if some brainless monkey just rip the part away after removing the other 3-4 bolts along the rear window......) the big bolt is totally different, it is the main holder for the shell onto the cockpit! if they glued it , I'd glue their asses into court!!! that means you cannot remove your clam anymore unless you break it.... it is a very important bolt that determines the correct alignment of the shell on top of the rear frame....after my small mishap at the ring where I bent the toe arm, the shell also moved 1 inch sideways.... all I did was loosening a little the 4 bolts in the trunk, the two under the rear glass the other two you are missing...the shell easily slipped back into alignment... the smaller 2+2 on the sides, by the grilles, are just to keep things tight, no structural load. (like the trunk ones)

[clipping_point]

And you agree that you point the screw in the wrong direction in your piccy?? I´ll give the monkeys a call tomorrow and ask them, politely, how they´ve done it...............then I´ll sue them

[clipping_point]

It was glued, but rather simply. U can see a black poly-urethan string from the wheel-house, which can be cut by a knife....... Will try cutting it uop tonight

[Ricky2772]

And you agree that you point the screw in the wrong direction in your piccy??

yes, it would obviously point toward the wheel... once inserted, the threaded part of the bolt would come out from the hole...

[clipping_point]

I might try to restore the bolt and hole. The clam is new so there is a thread in it that can be used if I drill a hole from the cabin.

[Ricky2772]

I might try to restore the bolt and hole. The clam is new so there is a thread in it that can be used if I drill a hole from the cabin.

problem is that drilling from the cabin is pretty much impossible, due to tight quarters...
you should ask them WHY they did it...it defies logic...

[clipping_point]

They said that it provided a good somewhat flexible bond. Problem was I did not how much glue they had used. And it must be better, more predictable, to restore the original design................................

[Ricky2772]

They said that it provided a good somewhat flexible bond.

translated:
they lost the screw, so, quick solution needed...let's slap a good handful of glue in between parts...voilà!
did you ask them: I neeed to remove clam for mechanical work...how do I do it now, instead of 60 seconds-undoing the 2 bolts?

[clipping_point]

That may well be the case! I had to cut away the poly-urethan bond, and lift the clam till it finally came loose. Pretty easy to lift it BTW. I will restore the original bolts when I reassemble. And look in my my Weapon R thread........................ it would look dandy on a supercharged monster as well!

[SE_Boogieman]

Sorry, am from Sweden so dont really know the word "clam", but as I understand it:
- Rear clam = Rear bodywork
- Front clam = Front bodywork
Great to have these kinds of guides - will defenitely contribute when I get my hand of a good specimen car

Reason I am asking is since I am about to bouy an Opel Speedster (probably Turbo) OR a Lotus Elise (R1 hopeully).
The Opel I am looking at says it has a "DAMAGED FRONT CALM" (guess he means CLAM) but says it is totaly repairable.
Is this true, or is there a risk of the frame being damaged?
Says he have driven into a "deep garage" and I guess he has knocked the bottom of the car into the floor due to the steep angle.
Something i should be worried about?

Best regards
Boogieman

ps
Seems like allmost all pictures are missing the links - just a CROSS in my browser
ds

Edited by SE_Boogieman, 22 May 2009 - 09:22 PM.

[Yellow_or_black?]

Hello and welcome Unfortunately a lot of photos got lost in the recent change of ownership of the forum Someone else will be along shortly to answer the rest of your questions, I'm sure

As an aside, there are some fellow hurdy gurdy speakers here (Swedish owners) - in case you want some local chums (if you haven't seen that already)

[Adonai]

yes, can´t see the photos of the tutorial... I need remove the rear body to change the exhaust manifold and repair some fiber parts

[nicollow]

yes, can´t see the photos of the tutorial...

I need remove the rear body to change the exhaust manifold and repair some fiber parts

If you send me your email address I will send you the front and rear clam pdfs....