536 replies to this topic

[kipper]

[quote name='Muncher' date='Jul 7 2008, 11:22 ' post='751879']
Could those that are missing bits please post what bits are missing here?

There should be:
1x brace bar
2x end joints
2x brace brackets
2x large bolts with stack of collets
2x small nuts and bolts
4x nitrile spacers
(+ additional mk2 tie rod brackets if you paid for them)


Hi Paul,

I'm missing:

1x brace bar
2x end joints
1x brace brackets
2x large bolts with stack of collets
2x small nuts and bolts
4x nitrile spacers
(1 additional mk2 tie rod bracket)

As far as the handing goes for the brackets that should be in the PM I sent you.

[Tom]

Hi Paul Did you get the cheque that was sent last week for brace bar. Tom

[Muncher]

Hi Paul

Did you get the cheque that was sent last week for brace bar.

Tom

Yep, just waiting for Spitfire to send me some more kits. I had some more kits spare but I gave them back so that all the components could be sealed in heavy duty plastic for packing purposes.

[jasvxt]

Sorry Muncher, but I'm a bit lost with this Group Buy (after 26 pages ) i was number 26 on the original list, could you please confirm the current position IE price, the kit i need for a 53 VXT with a full Milltek, any difference's/improvements since the original kit was released etc. I was originally down for the full kit inc brace bar. Thanks J

[Mr_M]

Sorry Muncher, but I'm a bit lost

See - he'd be cr*p as PM

[jasvxt]

your next

[Muncher]

Sorry Muncher, but I'm a bit lost with this Group Buy (after 26 pages ) i was number 26 on the original list, could you please confirm the current position IE price, the kit i need for a 53 VXT with a full Milltek, any difference's/improvements since the original kit was released etc.

I was originally down for the full kit inc brace bar.

Thanks


J

I'll have to speak to Spitfire to see what price they can offer you as we had assumed that anyone who wanted one and had put their name down would have already paid for and had their kit for some time now.

Firsts few kits had dodgy joints, these have all been swapped for FK ones long ago.
Tie rod kits now come with different brackets to make the brace bar fitting easier.

[Muncher]

Some good news, out of the 4 parcels which had things missing, the 3 which were within the UK have had the brace bars found and DHL will be forwarding them onto their owners tomorrow. The bits for kipper I'm now forwarding them another picture and it should be in their lost property

[kipper]

Thanks Paul

[VIX]

Mine's on! Just picked the car up from Steve Guglielmi. Back end of the car is definitely tauter and handling more precise to the extent I coud establish on public roads of course. Jimsan difuser has had to be lowered a bit for clearance - looks good but is a bit of a worry for speed bumps. Will post some pics at the weekend. Thanks again Paul.

[Muncher]

What did SteveG think of it, did he drive your car before and after? I think you summed it up quite well there, it makes it seem tauter and more precise. The other feedback we've had has been along similar lines. The good thing is if it's a perceptable difference on the roads then on track it should be quite clear.

[kipper]

Anybody recently fitted the brace bar to their VXT with Miltec...?

Edited by kipper, 10 July 2008 - 06:02 PM.

[Mr_M]

Anybody recently fitted the brace bar to their VXT with Miltec...?

Kipper - yes Steve and the guys at Scared Stiff put mine on for me last week. It passed the exhaust OK with the bolts at the bottom of the slot, but they had to do a fair bit of jiggling on my Jimsan (which is already VERY lowered) to get it all to fit. If I get time tomorrow or over the w/e I'll try and post up some piccys.


Paul - apologies for not posting feedback on this sooner. After having a (very limited) play at Croft last Saturday, I'm very impressed with the (perceived) effect so far. I'm normally very cautious when it comes to getting the back end moving - what I found on Saturday though, is that following fittment of the brace bar the back end now seems much more "as one". When it does move, it's very very predictable and controllable - it didn't bite until I really provoked it quite hard (by which time I'd pushed it much further than I would have done pre brace bar). Early days yet (didn't get too many laps in at Croft before it started to pee it down) but so far, so good

Edited by Mr_M, 10 July 2008 - 06:13 PM.

[kipper]

Anybody recently fitted the brace bar to their VXT with Miltec...?

Kipper - yes Steve and the guys at Scared Stiff put mine on for me last week. It passed the exhaust OK with the bolts at the bottom of the slot, but they had to do a fair bit of jiggling on my Jimsan (which is already VERY lowered) to get it all to fit. If I get time tomorrow or over the w/e I'll try and post up some piccys.


Paul - apologies for not posting feedback on this sooner. After having a (very limited) play at Croft last Saturday, I'm very impressed with the (perceived) effect so far. I'm normally very cautious when it comes to getting the back end moving - what I found on Saturday though, is that following fittment of the brace bar the back end now seems much more "as one". When it does move, it's very very predictable and controllable - it didn't bite until I really provoked it quite hard (by which time I'd pushed it much further than I would have done pre brace bar). Early days yet (didn't get too many laps in at Croft before it started to pee it down) but so far, so good

Thanks Mr M, just interested in the clearences, glad it fitted OK without any hassel...the slots were a good idea Paul

[Muncher]

Anybody recently fitted the brace bar to their VXT with Miltec...?

Kipper - yes Steve and the guys at Scared Stiff put mine on for me last week. It passed the exhaust OK with the bolts at the bottom of the slot, but they had to do a fair bit of jiggling on my Jimsan (which is already VERY lowered) to get it all to fit. If I get time tomorrow or over the w/e I'll try and post up some piccys.


Paul - apologies for not posting feedback on this sooner. After having a (very limited) play at Croft last Saturday, I'm very impressed with the (perceived) effect so far. I'm normally very cautious when it comes to getting the back end moving - what I found on Saturday though, is that following fittment of the brace bar the back end now seems much more "as one". When it does move, it's very very predictable and controllable - it didn't bite until I really provoked it quite hard (by which time I'd pushed it much further than I would have done pre brace bar). Early days yet (didn't get too many laps in at Croft before it started to pee it down) but so far, so good

Thanks Mr M, just interested in the clearences, glad it fitted OK without any hassel...the slots were a good idea Paul

Given the lack of space and all the different exhaust permutations I think the slots were the only way to do it. Joe-Turbo also has a full Miltek without any problems. It'd be interesting to to actually measure how much the subframe can actually flex between the pickup points. Changes of 0.5mm of toe are quite easily felt at the rear I would guess you're probably looking at maybe 5mm or more of movement in the subframe legs under hard cornering. (That's only a guess based on the based on the sag in the subframe under the weight of the car I have observed before.)

[kipper]

Paul, I'll be fitting the tie rods and brace bar myself, is it possible to put together a 'Fitting Guide' as currently the information is scattered throughout thread, or is it I'm just a bit lazy

[Muncher]

Yep, will do.

[VIX]

they had to do a fair bit of jiggling on my Jimsan

Was that extra?

[Muncher]

Here's a quick version I've knocked up, anyone care to correct anything there? I've not read it back yet.

The standard Vauxhall settings are:
1.2 mm each side (+ 0.18°) with a maximum variation of 0.2 mm (0.03°) per side.

There are however settings which some consider to be preferable and these are set out here:

http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Geo_Setups

It is also possible to set your own toe value accurately, a DIY guide is here:

http://wiki.seloc.or...Rig_(Home_Made)


N.B Fitting may be more easy if the car is jacked up and a rear wheel removed. To do this please consult the Vauxhall guidelines in the vehicle handbook.

1. Remove rear undertray
• Two M8 centre bolts
• Ten M5 bolts
• Two plastic fasteners (lever the centre out first)

2. Place a 17mm open ended spanner in between the outer joint rubber surround and the hub carrier. The spanner should locate on two flat faces. Using another 17mm open ended spanner loosen the nut which fastens the outer joint spindle through the hub carrier. If necessary tap the bar with a hammer to cause the outer joint to drop clear of the hub carrier.

3. Feel behind the inner toe link joint and you will feel a thread which passes through the wishbone bush which is retained by a nyloc nut. Remove this nut with a 17mm socket or ratchet spanner. You will then be able to pull the existing toe link clear of the car.

4. Bend back any aluminium foil covering the area. On the nearside of the car will be a small curved aluminium piece which is riveted to the subframe. Drill out this aluminium rivet.

5. Pass the new outer M10 bolt through the outer toe link connected to the bar. The outer end of the bar is the end which does not contain an insert on the end, if you pull back the neoprene protective boot you will find the joint is red in colour. The outer bolt is the bolt with a nyloc nut on one end. Press the shaped collet into the underside of the hub carrier. Place one washer on the bolt and pass it through the joint from the underside and through the hub carrier. Secure on the other end with a washer and nyloc nut. Tighten the nut with a 17mm spanner to pull the collet into the hub carrier. Torque the joint to 60NM.

6. Ensure joints are screwed into the bar up to the rubber boots.

7. Pass the inner M10 bolt through the locating collet, then through the tie rod bracket, through the inner joint and through the subframe and wishbone bush. Ensure the slotted collet sits in the grooved face of the subframe. Place a washer and lock nut on the rear of the bolt and tighten to the extent that the bracket is pressed up against the subframe but can be loosened by rotated slightly by hand.

8. Repeat steps 2-6 for the opposite side of the car.

9. Lay a piece of wood or any straight line over the top of both brackets to ensure they are level, once they are tighten the bolts though them and re-check. Torque to 60NM.

10. Using a 6mm drill-bit drill through the 4 small holes on each bracket. Too make this easier we recommend using a drill bit extension device such as the one made by Bosch and sold at hardware stores for approximately £15.

NB. If you are fitting the brace bar kit you only need to drill the two top holes on the bracket.

11. Place the supplied bolts and washers through these holes and place a washer and locking nut at the rear by sliding it across the rear face of the subframe with one finger. Tighten using a 5mm allen key and 10mm spanner.

12. Adjust the toe in of the wheel by loosening the lock nut on the bar and rotating it by hand before tightening the lock nut. Please note the lock nuts do not need to be overly tightened.

13. Refit the undertray

VX220 Spitfire Engineering Brace Bar Kit Fitting Guide
1. Connect the brace bracket to the toe link bracket using the supplied small bolts. Pass the bolt through from the brace bracket side. Tighten the bolt to the extent that it can be tapped up and down to adjust.

2. Repeat for the other side of the car.

3. Place the brace bar in between the brackets and pass the supplied M10 bolts through with the large collets next to the joint towards the front of the car. The M10 bolt will locate in the hole at the rear of the bracket but will not pass all the way through.

4. Ensure there is at least 5mm clearance between the bar and exhaust by raising and lowering the brace brackets. Once you are happy with the height fully tighten the connecting bolts and remove the large bolts and bar.

5. Drill a 10mm hole through the subframe using the brace bar bracket hole as a guide.

6. Repeat step 4 but pass the bolt all the way through the subframe, place a washer and locknut at the rear and torque to 60NM.

7. Rotate the bar by hand to lengthen it, once you meet resistance use a spanner to turn the bar an extra half turn to put the subframe under pre-load. Tighten the lock nuts at either end.

8. Pass the supplied M8 bolts through the undertray centre holes and place two nitrile washers on the other side so that approx 3mm of thread protrudes through them both. Refit undertray, locating the M8 bolts in the holes of the subframe.

[VIX]

What did SteveG think of it, did he drive your car before and after? I think you summed it up quite well there, it makes it seem tauter and more precise. The other feedback we've had has been along similar lines. The good thing is if it's a perceptable difference on the roads then on track it should be quite clear.

Paul, sorry, short answer is that in haste I didn't specifically ask. I did ask if he was able to do any back to back testing as Spitfire engineering had asked but he said it was just not practical on the local roads not least given the weather yesterday. I do know he did take it on a decent run. I will probably talk to him again either tomorrow or Saturday and will get back to you.

Steve