Jump to content


Photo

Traction Control


  • Please log in to reply
156 replies to this topic

#61 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 12 February 2008 - 05:58 PM

few other Q's if you will.. how did you mount the digi adjuster in the dash plate?
have you had to tie aload of cables up out the way for the diagnostic lead -> digi adjuster etc? quick look at the kit and it sems as though i have to connect the 3 wires for the slip adjuster, and then the rs232 from the digi adjuster, to the female rs232 -> white connector B on the racelogic unit.
did you take the top of your dash off to fit it all?


I took the dash top off, as its easy to do (my facia was held on with velcro). To the right of the VX220 logo there is a space, flat piece and space again. I removed the flat piece highlighted in the picture.

I used a piece of right angle aluminum with slots cut to provide adjustment and the adjuster is velro'd onto that. The adjuster is not supported by the facia at all, in previous pictures you can see two plastic bits bonded to the inside of the facia, these are to hold the facia in place, not the adjuster.



I'm at work, so I don't have any pictures of the actual thing, but hopefully you get it from the drawing above.

I took the diagnostic lead out under the bonnet and also the digi-adjuster lead and plugged them together there, so they are easy to get at when connecting a laptop to the system.


thanks for the pic, cool/ will have to fabricate something up.

no 8 core 0.5mmsq cable at work. bollocks. may have to BUY some! :(

#62 Lou1s Cyphre

Lou1s Cyphre

    Super Member

  • PipPip
  • 325 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Nottingham

Posted 13 February 2008 - 12:15 PM

I used a piece of right angle aluminum with slots cut to provide adjustment and the adjuster is velro'd onto that. The adjuster is not supported by the facia at all, in previous pictures you can see two plastic bits bonded to the inside of the facia, these are to hold the facia in place, not the adjuster.



Mr Buchos

I am planning on fitting my digital adjuster in the same place as you have located yours. Could you give me some dims for the channel and associated slots please. chinky chinky

#63 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 13 February 2008 - 01:04 PM

im already struggling removing the sodding dash plates! :rolleyes: ah well no rush

#64 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 14 February 2008 - 12:27 PM

cheers to buchos

knocked this up lastnight at work

bit overkill for just holding the controller as this stuff is strong as fook but its ali and pretty light, its probably stronger than my chassis :rolleyes:

Posted Image
Posted Image

#65 Buchos

Buchos

    Member

  • Pip
  • 231 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:N.Ireland

Posted 14 February 2008 - 01:36 PM

bit overkill for just holding the controller as this stuff is strong as fook but its ali and pretty light, its probably stronger than my chassis


Thats almost exactly what I have, its the strongest part of the dash now!

You've probably figured this out already, but that little bit under your index finger in the picture needs a screw in it to refit the dash, so you will need a U shape cut in your bracket to let a screwdiver up into it.

You don't seem to have the small eco-system of plants and debri I had in the dash :)

I am planning on fitting my digital adjuster in the same place as you have located yours. Could you give me some dims for the channel and associated slots please.


Hi lou1s, I pretty much made it on the fly and never measured it, Guys one above gives a better idea than my drawing.

I can't see anywhere else on the whole car to fit these things, so where have other people fitted them?

#66 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 14 February 2008 - 01:59 PM

AFAIK all the other people have the older pot adjuster. cheers for pointing that out.. it had slipped my mind just marked it up to grind a slot into it for screwdriver access

Edited by Guy182, 14 February 2008 - 02:06 PM.


#67 Buchos

Buchos

    Member

  • Pip
  • 231 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:N.Ireland

Posted 14 February 2008 - 02:04 PM

i noticed yours buchos is mounted slightly lower than central so it fitted straight in the hole once the bar was removed?


That might be shadow making the carbon look bigger than it is. I think I did take a little out of the top as well.

Posted Image

#68 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 14 February 2008 - 02:07 PM

is it central to the stereo hole then?

#69 Buchos

Buchos

    Member

  • Pip
  • 231 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:N.Ireland

Posted 14 February 2008 - 02:09 PM

is it central to the stereo hole then?


Pretty much, maybe a mil or two lower.

#70 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 14 February 2008 - 04:05 PM

buchos, you have the same stereo as me.. and mine goes off during cranking thumbsdown

#71 oblomov

oblomov

    oblomov

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,840 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:A colder windier place than stevieturbo's.
  • Interests:Mumblers

Posted 14 February 2008 - 07:13 PM

so where have other people fitted them?


I looked at various places to put my controller but decided I wanted it to be somewhere I could see it at a glance. The value of putting it where it is now is that when I had a problem with the ABS light coming on I could drive and watch for which ABS sensor was causing the error on the controller without too much problem.

Basically it's a piece of aluminimum plate from B&Q that's been polished up, pop riveted to the small ledge between where the dashboard fits and the metal beneath, then another plate on top angled slightly towards the driver. The unit sits on it held in place with velcro. The wires for the unit come out from beneath the dash right in the bottom corer of the instrument barnacle. Then when I got the sat nav I made an add on upright to take the sat nav holder.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Edited by oblomov, 14 February 2008 - 07:24 PM.


#72 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 15 February 2008 - 07:15 AM

looks good but id smash that off with my knees getting in


Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

#73 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 15 February 2008 - 07:24 AM

having a bit of trouble getting hold of some multicore to extend the injector wires did you use 0.5 o 0.75mm^2 buchos? i have got a load of grey 0.75mm singles and loads of anaconda (that black plastic like mesh protection thing that the fuel pipes have round them) so i can make a loom up from the singles but would prefer some multicore. going to try a leccy place however i dont wanna have to buy a full roll for the sake of 3m.

#74 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 15 February 2008 - 08:53 AM

buchos, you have the same stereo as me..

and mine goes off during cranking thumbsdown


put meter on it,
drops to 9.2v during cranking

#75 Buchos

Buchos

    Member

  • Pip
  • 231 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:N.Ireland

Posted 15 February 2008 - 09:30 AM

having a bit of trouble getting hold of some multicore to extend the injector wires
did you use 0.5 o 0.75mm^2 buchos?
i have got a load of grey 0.75mm singles and loads of anaconda (that black plastic like mesh protection thing that the fuel pipes have round them) so i can make a loom up from the singles but would prefer some multicore. going to try a leccy place however i dont wanna have to buy a full roll for the sake of 3m.


I doubt there will be much loss in a couple of meters, but i did use 0.5mm just in case. Making a loom up is good.

(I've ran 485 data up to a kilometer on 0.5mm, so its a bit of overkill.)

#76 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 15 February 2008 - 09:38 AM

mike broadbent from racelogic said: ''Where are you siting the traction ECU? It would be better to put it next to the engine ECU and not have to lengthen the injector signal wires... I think if I was fitting this, that's how I'd do it. I'd say you want the injector wires to be as short as possible, and the ABS wires are shielded and long precisely so that you can run them the length of the car if needs be. It's better to extend the adjuster connections and get a serial extension lead, than to have a really long injector cable run.''

#77 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 15 February 2008 - 09:40 AM

Posted Image

Posted Image

#78 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 15 February 2008 - 11:32 AM

right, cant get hold of any multicore 0.5mm locally.

there is this on RS site though,

http://uk.rs-online....B...t&R=0363014


or other options - do i use 0.75mm single that ive got here (normal electrical cable) and make up a loom?

or buy some 0.5mm single high temp automotive cable:

http://uk.rs-online....B...t&R=3694800


decisions.

Edited by Guy182, 15 February 2008 - 11:37 AM.


#79 Buchos

Buchos

    Member

  • Pip
  • 231 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:N.Ireland

Posted 15 February 2008 - 11:52 AM

mike broadbent from racelogic said:
''Where are you siting the traction ECU? It would be better to put it next to the engine ECU and not have to lengthen the injector signal wires...
I think if I was fitting this, that's how I'd do it. I'd say you want the injector wires to be as short as possible, and the ABS wires are shielded and long precisely so that you can run them the length of the car if needs be.
It's better to extend the adjuster connections and get a serial extension lead, than to have a really long injector cable run.''


I'd agree with that most of the time and can argue for either way, but a VX is not the length of the QE2, about a metre from engine to dash, so cable loss is negligable and injector pulses are straight DC, no data to get corrupted. I scoped out the signals I needed before I began and did not want extension cables with more plugs to feed through the tight bodywork.

I run a large electronics service company, so I'm not ignorant to the implications of extending cables, I'm probably quite anal about mega tidy, easy to maintain installations though. I wanted all the controls and different signals in one neat area for easy fault finding, and one type of cable with one function with no unnecessary joins front to back, easy for me to understand, install and remove.

Like anything its personal preference, I'm sure I'd go a different way with another type of car and any other way will work just as well. ;)

#80 Guy182

Guy182

    Scary Internerd

  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,459 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Grimsby

Posted 15 February 2008 - 12:13 PM

mike broadbent from racelogic said:
''Where are you siting the traction ECU? It would be better to put it next to the engine ECU and not have to lengthen the injector signal wires...
I think if I was fitting this, that's how I'd do it. I'd say you want the injector wires to be as short as possible, and the ABS wires are shielded and long precisely so that you can run them the length of the car if needs be.
It's better to extend the adjuster connections and get a serial extension lead, than to have a really long injector cable run.''


I'd agree with that most of the time and can argue for either way, but a VX is not the length of the QE2, about a metre from engine to dash, so cable loss is negligable and injector pulses are straight DC, no data to get corrupted. I scoped out the signals I needed before I began and did not want extension cables with more plugs to feed through the tight bodywork.

I run a large electronics service company, so I'm not ignorant to the implications of extending cables, I'm probably quite anal about mega tidy, easy to maintain installations though. I wanted all the controls and different signals in one neat area for easy fault finding, and one type of cable with one function with no unnecessary joins front to back, easy for me to understand, install and remove.

Like anything its personal preference, I'm sure I'd go a different way with another type of car and any other way will work just as well. ;)


ok cool. will stick to the original plan the same as yours then otherwise it means extending the serial connectors etc.

any advice re the cable to extend the injectors?

just looking at the clutch switch wiring diagrams and it has +12v going to it... the racelogic unit requires a switch that goes to gnd... :(

Edited by Guy182, 15 February 2008 - 12:37 PM.





4 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 4 guests, 0 anonymous users