156 replies to this topic

[Guy182]

sure i keeping getting a little misfire during normal driving: when at low revs and then decide to acclerate i.e. at junctions/speedbumps/mini roundabouts

[Buchos]

sure i keeping getting a little misfire during normal driving: when at low revs and then decide to acclerate i.e. at junctions/speedbumps/mini roundabouts

An LED that comes on when the TC is activated rather than flashing all the time would be useful.

I find I'm conscious of the TC when driving, waiting for it. On the standard map I can run as low as 5% all the time and notice some misses, at 10% I start to wonder if it is working at all.

[Guy182]

this was set around 4%... have you noticed any misfiring during normal driving?

[Buchos]

this was set around 4%...


have you noticed any misfiring during normal driving?

Not while driving at a constant speed, but I'm sure it gives the odd miss during acceleration on lower % settings. At highest settings it does not miss at all.

[Guy182]

found otu why mines acting up a bit.. getting odd behaviour from the wheel sensors. just been out and logged the wheel speeds, one whel jumped to 90kmh while others were at 40. and driving along at 48, one wheel sensor went down to 34 its happening on all the sensors too unfortunately. will try putting the shielding down to chasis tomorrow..

[rik]

Very good stuff guys. I haven't fitted the clutch switch myself, but I do know that there is an option in the software (the pc configurator thing), to "invert clutch switch". Don't know if that will help, but it may be a way for you to avoid having to make a clutch switch. I have my TC ecu behing the passenger seat now (instead of tucked away in the boot) - I like to remove it if I'm going to leave the car anywhere dodgy (£500+ bit of kit not covered under like-for-like ins)... Also has the nice effect of totally imobalising the car too Oblomov, I have a monitor situated in the same place as that. I could only use quite thin alu to make the mounting bracket because thicker would push the dash up and make it wonky, so it wobbles quite a lot. Does your's? If not, do you have any tips for making it more stable. Cheers Richard

[Guy182]

Very good stuff guys.

I haven't fitted the clutch switch myself, but I do know that there is an option in the software (the pc configurator thing), to "invert clutch switch". Don't know if that will help, but it may be a way for you to avoid having to make a clutch switch.

I have my TC ecu behing the passenger seat now (instead of tucked away in the boot) - I like to remove it if I'm going to leave the car anywhere dodgy (£500+ bit of kit not covered under like-for-like ins)... Also has the nice effect of totally imobalising the car too

Oblomov, I have a monitor situated in the same place as that. I could only use quite thin alu to make the mounting bracket because thicker would push the dash up and make it wonky, so it wobbles quite a lot. Does your's? If not, do you have any tips for making it more stable.

Cheers

Richard

rik there is already a clutch switch on the car

the invert just changes it betwen normally open/normally closed.
it still needs a ground whereas the standard one switches a 12v. so a relay has to go in there.

[Guy182]

put a cable to the battery negative terminal, and soldered it to the shielding of the ABS cable, logged it on the laptop and it had a few spikes under 8kmh ish, but as its set to not work below 14kmh thats fine over 10kmh it seemed to plot fine with no spikes and no misfires. sorted

[rturner]

Just started fitting my TC with digital adjuster today having read all of this thread and a few others. So far my greatest achievement is to have removed quite a bit of skin from my hands I've installed the same system (with standard adjuster) on a previous car which had the engine and ABS controller in the front of the car, so this is a bit of a pain in the backside in comparison. After about 4 hours work (including extending the wiring for the injectors so they'll reach the engine) my car car looks like this:





Any tips on how to remove that gear/handbrake tunnel? Hope it doesn't take me as long as getting the dash off

[Guy182]

right


first of all you want to be able to get your gearknob off, i went out and boguth a baby boa from B&Q for like 7 quid. gets it off easy without marking it.
then two allen grub screws under the handbrake handle to take that off.


one screw clip at the top of the drinks holder, remove and the drinks holder lifts up

then you just got like 2 at the side.

then pull it up and push it forward to pull the suround round the handbrake lever.

http://guysleeman.co.../vxt/racelogic/

Edited by Guy182, 15 March 2008 - 09:09 PM.

[rturner]

Thanks for the info Guy, should save me an hour or two of head scratching! Cheers, Rhys

[rturner]

This is a pain in the arse of a job All installed now, but one of the ABS sensors doesn't seem to want to pick up so if I turn the TC on I get a lot of miss-firing as it thinks three wheels are moving but one is doing 0 kmph. Checked my wiring and it all seems okay so I guess I'll have to start jacking wheels up and spinning them to track it down. Tired and pissed off now

[Guy182]

get a lap top hooked up just make sure you ignore the ''front right'' etc on the graph and just concentrate on the channel numbers when logging, as your channels may be different.. i.e. when u start it up it sets the channels to their default, when your settings file may have diff channels on. after i installed mine, i had my channels on my settings file as 34 21 but the default when switching on the application and logging a graph is different like 13 24 or something, i thought oh sh*t ive got mine wrong till i worked out which was which all over again, and went into my settings file to correct it, only to find they were actually correct. hope that makes sense btw.. did you connect the shielding of the ABS sensor cable down to the battery negative? make sure you do cos mine was causing problems with interference.

[rturner]

No, I didn't try that with the shielding. I'll give that a go tomorrow. I've managed to track down an ancient laptop that actually has a 9 pin serial port so that might help too Didn't manage to do anything with the software today as my USB>Serial adapter didn't want to play. I know what you mean about it not getting the right channel assigned to the right wheel during the automatic calibration. Nearly fell foul of that on my previous car. The system worked 1000 times better once I'd got them assigned correctly.

[Guy182]

yeah but when you log the graph it stays as the default assignment so just ignore the location it says and just pay attention to the channel number if your off this week i'll probably be driving past sheff in the afternoon when i pick my car up from wolverhampton if you need a laptop to use i use a usb>serial adaptor from maplin

[rturner]

yeah but when you log the graph it stays as the default assignment so just ignore the location it says and just pay attention to the channel number

if your off this week i'll probably be driving past sheff in the afternoon when i pick my car up from wolverhampton if you need a laptop to use

i use a usb>serial adaptor from maplin

Back at work for the rest of the week unfortunately, but thanks for the offer.

I've had some results today, confirming that all the sensors work and can pick up wheel speeds, although I'm back to three at the moment. I suspect either my dodgy wiring or the earthing problem. Not had a chance to connect the shielding to the battery yet but will next weekend.

Biggest problem at the moment is that the software on my laptop will not communicate with the TC ECU. The digi controller works fine with it, Mike at Racelogic sent me a Hyperterminal script, which communicated from laptop to TC ECU just fine, but for some reason when I try with the software I get the Failed message. Hopefully Mike will get back to me in the next couple of days with some suggestions.

This system had better be as good as I remember it being as I'm currently sick of the sight of it!

[Guy182]

the shielding wont be causing you problems yet, just make sure you do earth it though. prob a dry joint or something, or maybe a poor conection at the pin end?

[rturner]

the shielding wont be causing you problems yet, just make sure you do earth it though.

prob a dry joint or something, or maybe a poor conection at the pin end?

Almost certainly my crappy soldering in that case. I don't think it's at the pin end. As I've been trying to trouble shoot I've managed to get them all to work at some point, just not all at the same time.

When does the shielding problem occur then?

[snoopstah]

Insufficient shielding is extremely unlikely to cause a complete loss of data from a single sensor - the wires are only carrying unencoded pulses, not some digitally-encoded bitstream. Shielding issues will exhibit more in the way Guy saw - erratic pulse data causing fluctuations in the values received, affecting most or all the sensors.

[Guy182]

as above, it only really occurs when your driving, i.e. one sensor will spike to 90+kmh then another will jump to 200+kmh etc.