18 replies to this topic

[mandarinvx]

I'm going to have a go at changing the rad tomo - but I'm not too sure what Steve's statement means regarding jacking the car (below)

Do I need to jack from the front, and raise the entire front end up? (ie put the jack in under the number plate and jack from the centre of the cross beam?)

Didn't want to clutter the sticky thread

1. Loosen the front wheels and raise the front onto axle stands positioned under the chassis (not under the wheels, as you will remove those). Make sure you choose a strong area of chassis, and place wood between the axle stand and the car to prevent any damage. I’d recommend jacking from the centre of the car at the front to stop any chassis twisting occurring.

Ta

[thelynxeffect]

Personally, I'd want to put the stands under the lower wishbone mounts, not entirely sure how i'd lift it up first, I guess a piece of 2x4 running the width of the two mounts and jack the middle, I was thinking about this the other day cos mine will be going up onto four stands next week for a little while, sorry , no help at all I know Edit: I'm sure you don't have to remove the wheels to remove the front clam though.

Edited by thelynxeffect, 02 May 2008 - 05:22 PM.

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

Edit: I'm sure you don't have to remove the wheels to remove the front clam though.

no need to remove the wheels or wheels arch for the removal of the front clam
doing mine next week

[mandarinvx]

But I'd still have to lift each side to take off the wheel arch liners (ie get access to the screws) [I've tried to get them off with the wheels on before... and failed )

[SteveA]

A jack will not fit under the number plate, unless you have a low jack an even then it would need to be uber long. Jack the car up to max from one of the rear side points, this will lift the front wheel of the same side off the ground. put an axle stand under the front jack point then lower the rear. Do the same for the other side and Robert is your fathers brother.

[p4cks]

...and Robert is your fathers brother.

Not if you are Austrian.

[mandarinvx]

A jack will not fit under the number plate, unless you have a low jack an even then it would need to be uber long. Jack the car up to max from one of the rear side points, this will lift the front wheel of the same side off the ground. put an axle stand under the front jack point then lower the rear. Do the same for the other side and Robert is your fathers brother.

That's what I was planning to do, but then saw the front clam removal guide with

to stop any chassis twisting occurring.

Which presumably could occur when lowering onto the first axle stand

[severnless]

Manderin have you got a set of ramps?? you could pick up a cheapo set from argos or halfords?? then you could get the trolley jack under the front cross (box section, suspesion mount) member if the car is too low fro a set of ramps then just drive it onto a few bits of 3"x2" (wood!) until you can get the jack under then lift from the same section HTH

[simsy]

Removed my front clam the other day, did not take off wheels or liners... no problem. Just remove some screws from liners. Pull liner locally to remove some clam screws.... Lift car from sides to max and put on one axle stand at a time at front around lower mount area...

Edited by simsy, 02 May 2008 - 08:34 PM.

[p4cks]

Severnless, from my personal experience I have found that the ramps are fine for the rear, but sadly they catch the front clam because of the overhang It may be done with less steep ramps though I suppose.

[Baron Von Scubadaddy]

...and Robert is your fathers brother.

Not if you are Austrian.

Ha Ha Ha Ha

just read this

we've been doing Frizol jokes all week at work !

[severnless]

Severnless, from my personal experience I have found that the ramps are fine for the rear, but sadly they catch the front clam because of the overhang It may be done with less steep ramps though I suppose.

having not used them on my car yet, i suspected as much that's why i suggested driving onto blocks of wood until you could get a trolley jack under?
i use to do this on my kitcar when i couldn't find my ramps!!

[JimmyJamJerusalem]

I have wondered about this for a while!! Any chance you can put together a better 'how to' once you get it sussed Ad??

Edited by JimmyJamJerusalem, 03 May 2008 - 12:30 PM.

[mandarinvx]

Did it all without having to raise the car in any way - was an utter PITA tho, but I don't imagine it would make it much easier being raised

[Richy]

Starting this job in the morning - not looking forward to it - im also going to attempt to remove the front without jacking - wish me luck

[Code Monkey]

its not too bad once the liners are off, i found it easier to take off a wheel remove the liner wheel back on and repeat both sides then clam off with wheels on was pretty straightforward. Only real hassle was getting it all back together on your own getting everything lifted and into position at the right place and time. another pair of hands if only for this is always useful

[daggles]

If you search eBay for 'electric jack' there are some cheapish (£30 ish) electric scissor jacks. I was toying with a pair of these as a bit of creative wiring would let you raise 2 jacking points at the same time

[Richy]

Liners are off, took less than 30 mins - I've got a far few pairs of hands to help lift it all off tomoz - I've just got to work out where i can store the clam for a few days Are there any bolts that are more stubborn than the others? - The two that hold the rad/prop the bonnet look a tad rusty, but everyting else is like new.

[ukgulf]

Liners are off, took less than 30 mins - I've got a far few pairs of hands to help lift it all off tomoz - I've just got to work out where i can store the clam for a few days

Are there any bolts that are more stubborn than the others? - The two that hold the rad/prop the bonnet look a tad rusty, but everyting else is like new.

Oh yes.... I had 2 of the little bar stewards... The one by the ABS unit is a sod, and the only way to get it off, along with the other 2 across the back, is to remove all the others bar those 3 along the back then grind them off from where the rad was as per Steve's instructions, but unlike me, read the whole document first so that you lift the housing and slide the rad out with those 3 screws still attached... then grind them off.

Bolt # 2 that proved somewhat troublesome was the lower one on the inside of the pax door going into the sill. I purchased a 90 deg head for the dremel and HD cutting blades and gut it off. It was spinning in the nut that was glued on the inside of the sill. Then removed black sill protector and pulled what was left of the glue and nut/bolt off from inside the sill and replaced the nut which I fixed in pace with a little araldite. Fortunately I had replaced my black sills recently and had not glued them down. They were not glued when I put them back so I always have easy access.

Edited by ukgulf, 16 July 2008 - 09:14 PM.