488 replies to this topic

[rsg]

I've had no lights, and the car took to it straight away, hunted for a few seconds at start, but been fine since Or am I better resetting anyhoo

If you have changed the TB on a DBW car then you have to reset the ECU and let it do an adaptation (ignition on for 30 seconds without touching pedal, or longer if throttle plate still thwacking back and forth).

You can end up in a very soft limp mode otherwise. No EML, but car not quite right.

I was thinking more about letting the fuel trims adjust, as theres more air flow in.

[theolodian]

I've had no lights, and the car took to it straight away, hunted for a few seconds at start, but been fine since Or am I better resetting anyhoo

If you have changed the TB on a DBW car then you have to reset the ECU and let it do an adaptation (ignition on for 30 seconds without touching pedal, or longer if throttle plate still thwacking back and forth).

You can end up in a very soft limp mode otherwise. No EML, but car not quite right.

I was thinking more about letting the fuel trims adjust, as theres more air flow in.

No reason to think that zeroing the fuel adaptation will be any closer than starting from where it already is. It can't hurt, but probably not worth extra effort.

Throttle body adaptation is rarely understood, but very important. It can even affect later throttle cable cars with idle speed motors in the throttle body.

[mandarinvx]

I was under the impression that the ECU will self adjust for the fueling I'll give it a go tomorrow and see if it makes a difference

[theolodian]

I was under the impression that the ECU will self adjust for the fueling

I'll give it a go tomorrow and see if it makes a difference

It will, what I am talking about is the electronic throttle. That should be re-synced to the ECU.

[mandarinvx]

I was under the impression that the ECU will self adjust for the fueling

I'll give it a go tomorrow and see if it makes a difference

It will, what I am talking about is the electronic throttle. That should be re-synced to the ECU.

OK cool, so ignition on, but don't touch anything

[mandarinvx]

Started to port the cylinder head now

Massive thanks to Vocky for removing the valves for me (standard size spring compressors won't fit ) and for giving me a crash course in porting

I took quite a few initial pics, there's no real need to post them, but I'll put some up just in case they come in handy for someone

First things first - the waterways / penetrations







And some of the head with cams and valvetrain still assembled:







Exhaust ports:





Easy to see that there is plenty of scope for material removal here!

Inlet:

[The Batman]

have you cut a head in half the complete head looks good

[mandarinvx]

have you cut a head in half

The images are shamelessly nicked from a Cobalt forum

the complete head looks good

Oh, and thanks Joe for supplying the head

[The Batman]

no worries, you almost had my whole engine! well you still can, if you fancy using a bit of filler

[mandarinvx]

The head is in very good condition:



A pic with the valvetrain (inc seats) removed, only the guides left in place:



Exhaust marked up with the aid of a gasket to show how much needs to be removed





Exhaust port, where Vocky kindly gave the demo, you can see the level of material that can be removed to increase flow:



Initial porting:


OEM:


And the disruptive ridge within the port:

[mandarinvx]

And the inlet side, bit easier to see here as it's cleaner:





And as with the exhaust side, the ridge to be removed (part done here):





I've done a fair bit since these were taken, I'll get some more pics over the weekend

[theolodian]

I was under the impression that the ECU will self adjust for the fueling

I'll give it a go tomorrow and see if it makes a difference

It will, what I am talking about is the electronic throttle. That should be re-synced to the ECU.

OK cool, so ignition on, but don't touch anything

Yeah, AFTER removing power to the ECU. Has to be done EVERY time power is removed from the ECU.

[mandarinvx]

Porting update - Well after bending two of the 3mm arbour sanding drums I'm going to call it a day with the Dremel, and try to get a die grinder! I haven't even finished one exhaust port yet

[vocky]

looking good, still got a few hours to go on that head As for the ecu reset, disconnect the battery or pull fuse 8 for 15 minutes, then drive steadily for 30 miles or so. This allows the ecu to relearn the parameters. that method works for the z22se ecu, other ecu's might require a different method, but follow that for the z22se

[mandarinvx]

Yep, many hours! I bought a couple of 6mm shank carbide burrs for quicker material removal, but can't get enough control with a drill I reckon if I was to try and do the whole head with a Dremel I'd get through three of them, and use around 50 sanding drums

[drpau]

Mandarin, dunno if thia will be any use - air driven die grinder http://www.aldi.ie/i...s/2867_8344.htm (irish link)

I was in there today and they still had these in stock, they also had drill attachments which is a sort of extension (like you get on a dremel for accessing difficult to reach areas) couldnt find it on their website but they had quite a few instore, looks a bit like this only for a drill http://www.jeff7.com...20flexshaft.jpg

Hang on, found it http://www.aldi.co.u...ers/58_9522.htm , should make it more controllable with the drill and only 15quid.

Edited by drpau, 26 April 2009 - 08:01 PM.

[mandarinvx]

Cool, cheers mate I've given up on the idea of a die grinder, after finding out just how expensive the air compressor is that would be required to run it (>£400 ) That drill attachment looks like it could work well tho, thanks

[mandarinvx]

I can't reach into the inlet ports to knife edge the divide with either the dremel or the drill, just not enough room - any ideas

[rsg]

I could with my halfords dremel (just) there was a plastic collar that I removed so I could get into the ports. Time to take the dremel apart??

[mandarinvx]

Managed with the Dremel in the end - very tight!

After a few piles like this:



I think I have finally gone as far as I will


Roughing out of the inlet to get rid of the step (ie where the machining stops and the natural casting starts)



Opening out the exhaust port (the exhaust side is easy to get to)



A bit more roughing out



And some more



Moved to a finer sanding drum