488 replies to this topic

[mandarinvx]

A little more progress today - removed the exhaust, came apart fairly easily (despite the horror stories I've read!) although having the rear clam off has definately made it 100 times easier Even the lambda sensors came out without a fight, after buying a 22mm spanner



Also dremelled out the failed clam to boot fixings, to be replaced with stainless rivnuts



The manifold crack all but dissapeared after I'd slackened off the studs



I'll give everything a good clean tomorrow I think

[cheeky_chops]

adam, is there anything in the corner, behind drivers seat that can rattle alot? Got a bitch of a rattle, comes on about 3k rpm. Very tinny, doesnt sound like it comes from engine bay...

[mandarinvx]

adam, is there anything in the corner, behind drivers seat that can rattle alot? Got a bitch of a rattle, comes on about 3k rpm. Very tinny, doesnt sound like it comes from engine bay...

Not really I'll have a good poke around for you tomorrow tho

It's very easy to lose seat belt bolts or spacers down there? Have your seatbelts ever been removed (for a harness bar etc)

[theolodian]

Coud it be the boot release? This is assuming that you have taken the seat out for a good look.

[cheeky_chops]

seat, belts, nope - nothing ever been removed TBH, i was hoping to get some ideas before i spend a few hours removing it all and end up with 2 rattles

[mandarinvx]

I had a look today, the only things that could rattle down there are the boot release bracket (which is bolted in place, you should be able to feel that it's secure by reaching up through the gap) or the clam bolt (which has a washer on, so could rattle if loose) If the latter then you can access it to check by removing the speaker and reaching in you can also reach down to check if there is anything rolling around on the ali tub, but prepare for grazed arms

[cheeky_chops]

cheers fella

[The Batman]

come on then how long did it take to get the rear clam off?!

[Duncan VXR]

seat, belts, nope - nothing ever been removed

TBH, i was hoping to get some ideas before i spend a few hours removing it all and end up with 2 rattles

Paul your seatbelt bolts are loose certainly the pax one is

DG

[cheeky_chops]

seat, belts, nope - nothing ever been removed

TBH, i was hoping to get some ideas before i spend a few hours removing it all and end up with 2 rattles

Paul your seatbelt bolts are loose certainly the pax one is

DG

I would try to do them up but some fcuker STILL has my socket wrench!

[mandarinvx]

come on then how long did it take to get the rear clam off?!

Around 4 hours

[mandarinvx]

Sorted out the rusted boot floor clam fasteners

First thing was to remove the old bolts/rivnuts - I made lots of slots across the top of the fastener with a Dremel cutting disc, then used a screwdriver an hammer to fold the remains in, until they simply dropped through, then left with this after prising the glued on plates off:



Gave everything a good clean with a drill mounted wire brush, then a coat of zinc primer (90% zinc)





And added some stainless steel M6 Rivnuts [available on ebay, but you also need the Rivnut tool]

Then a coat of Silver paint to keep the zinc primer in place

[mandarinvx]

Spitfire Toe Link Fitting

Due to lack of instructions and little info on here I've taken a load of pics whilst fitting the toe link kit

The Spitfire kit is extremely well made (I was dubious whether it was really worth all that money, but I'm happy to say I think it is - no corners cut here)

Obviously I've done this with the rear clam already off, no doubt it would be much harder if it were in place, especially when drilling the holes as the exhaust may well get in the way!

Worth noting that this is my interpretation of fitting, there may well be an easier way

Tools:
Jack
Support
Wheel Brace
2 x 19mm spanners
2 x 17mm spanner
12mm spanner
10mm spanner
5mm socket mounted allen key
6mm socket mounted allen key
17mm socket
15mm socket
12mm socket
Electric Drill
Good quality drill bits
Goggles
High temp grease
Dremel and cutting discs (possibly) or second jack
Adjustable wrench
Centre punch
Large hammer
Small hammer

(and I've probably missed things off!)

To start with jack up the car and support on one side, remove rear wheel

Undo the brake line and handbrake retaining bolts on the wishbone (they may look like they'll never budge, but they will with a bit of force)



Loosen cap on brake fluid resevoir



Use a socket on the handbrake mechanism nut to activate the movement, so the handbrake cable becomes loose



You should be able to pop the handbrake cable free I had already slackened the adjuster off beneath the undertray, as I plan to replace the cable next week; if there isn't enough movement in the adjuster arm you'll need to remove the large rear undertray and fiddle with the adjuster



Then loosen the top caliper bolt (this may require a bit of force - I used a jack handle to give extra leverage)



And using a 6mm allen bit remove the lower bolt

[haggi961]

looks good mate and you making progress now , will there be a time when your car is finished lol

[mandarinvx]

Then tilt the caliper upwards so that you have full access to the nut that needs to be removed



Removing this nut can be done in a few ways - you can try to get a spanner onto the flats on the ball joint side (I didn't have one that would fit); you can place a jack under the balljoint to stop the joint simply spinning (no matter what position I tried with the jack, it just kept spinning); or last resort is to use a Dremel to make a cut either side of the nut - it will then come off easily



Then remove the other end, by undoing the wishbone bolt from the engine bay side, and tapping through with a hammer



Now set the length of the new arm to that of the existing, from balljoint to balljoint

I also marked the floor before removing the wheel using a flat peice of steel against the wheel, you can then compare against these marks later

[mandarinvx]

Use the long bolt and special washer to line up the support bracket



Then use a centre punch and lump hammer to marke the place to drill. Use a series of drills to make the holes, checking alignment each time - I used 3mm, 4.5mm then 6mm

Pull back the gaitors on the each end of the tie rods and use some high temperature grease to smear around the rose joint

Then bolt it all together - very fidly trying to get the top bolts in place!



I also used a fifth bolt, just for extra peace of mind, as there is already a hole in the subframe



Then connect the outboard side up - I'm presuming I've done this right



Obv the tubby is slightly different as later ones have a taper joint

And all done, refitting is essentially the reverse of the above



Make sure you pump the brake pedal a few times after replacing the cap!!!

[mandarinvx]

looks good mate and you making progress now , will there be a time when your car is finished lol

This is classed as maintenance

[haggi961]

looks good mate and you making progress now , will there be a time when your car is finished lol

This is classed as maintenance

lol is that what it is

[vocky]

you should have measured the distance between the disc face and chassis I used a steel ruler and a tape measure, there is a lip at the bottom of the chassis (where the subframe bolts to the chassis) the distance between that lowest lip and the outer face of the disc was 176mm on mine

[mandarinvx]

you should have measured the distance between the disc face and chassis

I used a steel ruler and a tape measure, there is a lip at the bottom of the chassis (where the subframe bolts to the chassis) the distance between that lowest lip and the outer face of the disc was 176mm on mine

Doh

I did point out at the beginning there are probably better ways