396 replies to this topic

[chris_uk]

ive no idea. i bet the others will have more of an idea.. 

 

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

I don't have a problem with my cams On tick over

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 25 March 2014 - 06:31 PM.

[chris_uk]

did a couple things before I go to croft at the weekend.

bought some edging strip ages ago so started putting it all over the place.







needed to make use of my fog lights so I fashioned them up into brake cooling ducts

hole drilled, and covered in edging strip.


ducting was a little small really and didn't go over the fog lights well enough so going to buy some larger ducting and re-pipe it.

this is 58mm pipe, ideally id want 60mm or 65mm





from underneath and wheels on full lock towards centre of car to check clearance.. there was loads.





also the lights were fcuked as the clips which the bolts sit into were snapped.

this fix allows the bolt to still be usable as these are used to alter the headlight beam.



as usual bother mine had broken so had to fashion up 2 brackets

[chris_uk]

I went about fitting my wide band today, cant fully finish it because i havent got a lambda bung put in the exhaust yet so i wired it up ready.

Used a switched live and neutral from behind the radio and the output was lengthened to reach the back.

Wires!


For reference..

Purple = permenant live
Green = switched live
Black = neutral



Joined, but re-did the heat shrinking as this looks sh*t.




Ready to plug in





Done



All the tape etc will be gone when i can be arsed to give it a nice good clean.

Now ive got to sit and read through 60 pages of the mapping software manual..

[haggi961]

Looks good and have fun reading the manual. When you getting your software?

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

The neutral for the wideband needs to be connected to the ECU

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Nothing stopping you linking the radio neutral to the ecu then to wideband

[chris_uk]

Why does it have to go to the ecu neutral? Neutral is neutral afaik.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

It says in manual

[chris_uk]

Yes, i read that but it doesnt say why.. Which leads me to believe it was just a earth which was easy for everyone to access. Earth anywhere is the same it shouldnt matter where its connected aslong as it all goes back to the neutral of the battery.

[fezzasus]

Depends on the amount of noise at the earth point. 

[chris_uk]

Well the guage works and using a multimeter it seemed perfectly fine as an earth point.

[fezzasus]

Well the guage works and using a multimeter it seemed perfectly fine as an earth point.

 

Multimeter means nothing. Ground points can carry interference from other sources, the ECU will have a cleaner ground point as it's an essential part of the car.

 

Peter's suggesting that you use the ECU one to get the cleanest signal, that doesn't mean it won't work, just that if you pick up noise in the ground and end up munching your engine because of wrong readings from the lambda sensor, you'll be kicking yourself for not taking another few minutes to wire it correctly.

[Bargi]

also the lights were fcuked as the clips which the bolts sit into were snapped. this fix allows the bolt to still be usable as these are used to alter the headlight beam. as usual bother mine had broken so had to fashion up 2 brackets

Got any other pictures of what you did with the lights. Been thinking of doing the same as one of mine has a broken mount, but to scared to cut it open

[chris_uk]

 

Well the guage works and using a multimeter it seemed perfectly fine as an earth point.

 

Multimeter means nothing. Ground points can carry interference from other sources, the ECU will have a cleaner ground point as it's an essential part of the car.

 

Peter's suggesting that you use the ECU one to get the cleanest signal, that doesn't mean it won't work, just that if you pick up noise in the ground and end up munching your engine because of wrong readings from the lambda sensor, you'll be kicking yourself for not taking another few minutes to wire it correctly.

 

 

i see, so connecting it direct to the battery is the best bet then?

[fezzasus]

No. Connecting it to the ECU ground is.

[chris_uk]

 

also the lights were fcuked as the clips which the bolts sit into were snapped. this fix allows the bolt to still be usable as these are used to alter the headlight beam. as usual bother mine had broken so had to fashion up 2 brackets  

Got any other pictures of what you did with the lights. Been thinking of doing the same as one of mine has a broken mount, but to scared to cut it open

 

 

i havent unfortunately.. i just took them two.. just cut a decentish sized hole in the lights so you can a. see what your doing and b. get a solid bracket in there. then just cover it in black vinyl like i did.. 

[Exmantaa]

Yes, i read that but it doesnt say why.. Which leads me to believe it was just a earth which was easy for everyone to access. Earth anywhere is the same it shouldnt matter where its connected aslong as it all goes back to the neutral of the battery.

 

If your going to use the EGR wire to feed back your wideband signal into OBD (as you do off course), then better connect the  wideband neutral/ground to ecu to avoid any ground voltage offsets that screw up your AFR feedback to the ecu egr input wire.

(And when installed, you should always check the OBD logging if your Closed Loop AFR alternates around 14.7 and if 11.8AFR on your gauge shows as 11.8 in OBD...)

[chris_uk]

If the ecu earth goes to the chassis and then to the battery why isnt a connection to the battery better than going via the chassis? Am i being thick?

[Arno]

The problem is voltage offsets that are induced by current flow (and resistance across) each interconnection point.

 

Eg. when you measure the voltage between the alternator and the engine block when it's running  it's probably 14.4V. Do the same between the alternator and the battery ground then it's probably closer to 13.9V. Engine off and it all levels out to 12.6V as little or no curent flows.

 

This results in a voltage offset on a sensor reading to the ECU if you were to use a different ground. Sometimes it's linear, so can be adjusted for, but in many cases the resistance varies with temperature and is non-linear and can't be compensated.

 

A rule of thumb is that any external sensor or feedback to an ECU needs to be grounded to the same point that the ECU is to stop this effect and get reproducable readings. The ECU uses a single ground for all it's sensors through itself.

 

Care must be taken though that additional ground wires from the ECU in the back to the front of the car are insullated from the chassis/car as you do not want this to be a (parasitic) conductor for a starter motor current if, for instance, there was a problem with the ground stud on the chassis and the current tries to use any available other path.. (in short: smoke and sparks...) A small fuse in the cable can be a good idea..

 

Bye, Arno.