32 replies to this topic

[The Batman]

you did say I could have your speedlines if I got the seat out

i said you have to get the bolt out with your teeth though! you cheated

[Ouija Board]

Just for info incase anyone does a search, buy these two bits. I used them to get my seat out. Absolute doddle.

Stubby allen bit:

http://buy1.snapon.c...amp;dir=catalog

Ratchet:

http://buy1.snapon.c...amp;dir=catalog

Edit to say : perhaps the link did work after all.

(sorry my work computer won't let me post a link).

Yes I know the above are a bit more pricy than "machine mart" , but they work!! However buying these tools is like modding your car. "Once you pop you can't stop". I've only really finished buying them after about 10 years.

HTH

Rob

Edited by Ouija Board, 27 April 2009 - 08:02 AM.

[R20BY_M]

I bought one of these

Took my seat out last week and mine was definately a 6mm allen bit.

Or for the cheaper option which worked for me, link above and the actual hex out of my electric screw driver set.

[syep2001]

I found that the small £29.99 socket set from halfords is plenty enough to get the seats out. Although I used a convertor socket to get a bigger extension in for the rears. Easy, in and out including cleaning took bout an hour. Thanks for the guide!

[Zoobeef]

I used a stubby allen bit and a rachet spanner

[pdeng8062]

Just removed and re-fitted my seats. The following tools were required.

Driver's seat sub-frame to chassis
6mm allen key
13mm ratchet spanner
17mm open ended spanner (to undo end of seat belt from seat)

Passenger seat subframe to chassis
12mm socket with long extension bar & ratchet (I had to buy an extension bar from Halfords to complete the job)
6mm allen key - ball ended
The above are essential due to the limited access to the various fittings (esp. the allen bolt hidden under the nearside of the passenger seat!)

Seat to sub-frame
6mm allen key (to remove seat buckle. DO NOT lose the bolt to fix the seat buckle - it appears to be a specialist part although replacement can be obtained from Elise-Shop)
13mm ratchet spanner
5mm allen key

I guess only Lotus / Vauxhall only know why they could standardise the fixings!

The passenger is a right pain - at least the driver's seat can be slid back and forward. When re-fitting the seats I found the holes in the sub-frame did not always quite align with those in the chassis. It seemed best to start with the most difficult bolts and hand tighten them loosely so the subframe could be wiggled about whilst fitting the remaining bolts. Once all the bolts are loosely fitted, they can then be fully tightened (beware of cross threading or overtightening).

Have fun!

Edited by pdeng8062, 06 June 2011 - 12:39 PM.

[KurtVerbose]

A job I really must do. There are 100's of pounds under there

..and the radio radio snatch plate, and a mobile phone!!

The allen key I'd tried to undo the seat with, the remote for my radio, a heavily corroded paper clip (good demonstration of why not to mix metals), various stones, a very tightly wedged in 10 pence piece, a new spark plug still in its box, a circular bit of shiny metal, lots of dirt and some cobwebs.

That's just the passenger seat.

[KurtVerbose]

Nothing under the drivers seat.

[ChrisS1]

I took the seats out ages ago and can't for the life of me remember whether the 'L' shaped metal bits came from the front or rear of the runners - also which orientation do they go? TIA

[techieboy]

Rear of the drivers seat runners. Mine are pointing towards each other.

[siztenboots]

didn't slindborg fit a nylon strip to stop the play in the runners

[ChrisS1]

Rear of the drivers seat runners. Mine are pointing towards each other.

Ta Techie

[RabnaKS]

I have read this thread & didn't notice an issue I came across when I removed my seats?  While re-fitting the drivers seat I thought I'd done a good job until I attempted to go for a drive & nearly ripped my arm out of it's socket as the seat flew back & being a short 4rse couldn't reach the pedals.  Test the seat with as much pressure as possible to check if the seat locks in place on the sliders, because it is painful when you set off & expect to go forward & the car jerks & you fly back.  If this is the case, locate the seat & start the bolts so they're not cross threaded, sit in the seat & tighten the bolts, yes it's difficult to twist but well worth it when after 3 attempts you can't work out what you've done wrong!!! I'm certainly open to advice if I have been doing something wrong.