72 replies to this topic

[TheStotts]

on the rings there should be a brub screw to stop them turning.

Thanks Chris

Will take a closer look tomorrow.

[Whiteboy]

on the rings there should be a brub screw to stop them turning.

Thanks Chris

Will take a closer look tomorrow.

Well done for doing the worst one first, looks perfect. I left it a couple of weeks before having the geo done. It would be worth getting the ride height to the height you want as it will end up costing you at least another £40 if done with a geo.

Steve

[TheStotts]

on the rings there should be a brub screw to stop them turning.

Thanks Chris

Will take a closer look tomorrow.

Well done for doing the worst one first, looks perfect. I left it a couple of weeks before having the geo done. It would be worth getting the ride height to the height you want as it will end up costing you at least another £40 if done with a geo.

Steve

Cheers Steve

Other 3 corners done in a couple of hours, not bad for a mechanical numpty!

It's about 1cm lower than OE all round now so will see how it settles and fine adjust prior to the geo.

Been for a run and the car feels great although a little bouncy so a bit of knob twiddling in order. Can you remember how many clicks from soft you had yours set at?

Dave

[TheStotts]

on the rings there should be a brub screw to stop them turning.

Definitely no grub screws on the rings. There are two rings per shock and they lock against each other pretty well so hopefully nothing to worry about

[chris_uk]

i never did mine up anyway, count how many click you have from hard to soft, set rear at 70% soft and front at 80% soft then see how you get on.

[Whiteboy]

The grub screw should be on the top ring, but is not needed tbh. I ran 12 from soft front and 10 rear on the road and 14 front and 12 rear on track. Don't forget I had 425f and 550 rear springs. If you wanted to go harder, I think the springs are £18. I liked the set up I had and would have the same again, if I bought another vxt. As you found it was easy to get the back out with these settings. If you are getting a double bounce / bouncy ride keep adding +1 until it goes. Steve

Edited by Whiteboy, 01 April 2011 - 05:24 PM.

[TheStotts]

Thanks chaps

Just been out for a run and managed to remove a bit of the front end bounce by increasing front firmness. Running 10 back and 10 front (out of 20) seems to be best compromise. Any more on the front end and the car just skips across the bumps. Hopefully I'll be able to run a harder setting once the geo has been tweaked. Can't wait to fiddle with the settings on track

As you found it was easy to get the back out with these settings.

Indeed

It's funny that my most enjoyable on track experience in a VX was in someone else's car!

Here's a pic of the broken shock that prompted the change:



Puts the exhaust and remap plans back a few months but to be honest there’s no point in arriving at a corner with more speed given my experience (and talent)!

[Hark]

Hi Old thread I know, but I intend to use it this weekend to get my rear dampers refurbed by Gaz. Is it worth replacing the top and bottom nut and bolts. Car is on 69k. If so anyone know what bolts and grade I need? Simba asked a similar question, not sure if he found an answer. I've already changed hub carrier bolts and toe links for new, is there any point changing the drop links if I've had no issues with them. Are they something that fail?

[JG]

Rear: Top shock mount M10x60 8.8 tensile grade Bottom shock mount M10x60 8.8 Front Top shock mount M10x70 8.8 Bottom shock mount M10x60 8.8

[Hark]

Cheers James I'll see what I can find online and get some just in case. Many thanks

[Bargi]

Rear:
Top shock mount M10x60 8.8 tensile grade
Bottom shock mount M10x60 8.8

Front
Top shock mount M10x70 8.8
Bottom shock mount M10x60 8.8

You got a bolt kit for suspension Mr James?

[Hark]

Thanks to the original poster for the guide. All done today without a single hitch. An old post, but if you are still about, then thanks very much for the guide. Saved me quite a few £££ I'm sure.

[Bootdog]

+1 a good guide indeed, and one of the more satisfying and less annoying jobs on the VX!

Small update that might help someone else:
If you have an uprated front anti-roll bar, the front suspension doesn't flop down as described, and it won't release the shock easily either.
It was quite difficult to remove the shock, as the arb was compressing the springs quite a bit (even with the wheel off the ground).
I tried to jack up the hub, but that made the problem worse, it actually needed more weight on the hub to release the shock.

Eventually I used a second jack to raise the other side of the car slightly, which lowered the arb position, which released the spring compression.
In hindsight, dropping the side that had the wheel removed might have worked too (and wouldn't have needed a second jack).

Hopefully all that makes sense