427 replies to this topic

[oakmere]

How many camber shims to run

How can you decide that in advance? Surely the suspension needs to be fully built first, so you even know what the base camber is to adjust/even up from there? I think I've still got a load of serviceable front shims here, if you need them.

Sorry, brain fade. I meant caster shims.

edited

I would put 2 each side as this is what most come with as standard.

Mine has 2 each side on the passenger side and all behind on the drivers side???

Unless you spend all your time on track it won't make much of a difference.

Cheers Oakmere

[theolodian]

I would put 2 each side as this is what most come with as standard.

Mine has 2 each side on the passenger side and all behind on the drivers side???

Unless you spend all your time on track it won't make much of a difference.

Cheers Oakmere

Thanks. I talked to Guglielmis this morning in my search for goop. Steve says you can run whatever. 2 and 2 is always safe. More caster helps at high speed because you can run less camber. He runs max camber, but that is for aggressive track use of course.

I was thinking 3 in the front, 1 in back, and not too much camber. However, I don't want the front to be too planted and the back end up going first all the time. I have time to think about it more.

[Duncan VXR]

I have more on 1 side at the rear than the other - 1 on one sode and 3 the other maybe my wishbone is bent a bit more tha it looks lol But tbh like suspension it is not a static height adjustment, in that you use the adjustment to get it spot on each corner. Same as the camber shims - need to measure rather than take the fact there are 2 on both sides as the correct setting. DG

[theolodian]

I think I'll start with 2 and 2 and then have them move it towards higher caster if it needs to be evened up.

[BRG_Pete]

I think I'll start with 2 and 2 and then have them move it towards higher caster if it needs to be evened up.

You may find it easier to fit 2 and 2. During my refresh I found fitting the 1+3 combination very frustrating, later on I changed to the 2+2 and they went straight in. As other people have mentioned gluing the castor washes together helps a lot.

[theolodian]

Crashbox . . . is on!


Vocky . . . is a God!

Edited by theolodian, 23 April 2010 - 01:34 PM.

[techieboy]

Wooohooo. Great work, the pair of you! Sort that flucking tow eye assembly out though, whilst you've got the chance.

[theolodian]

Wooohooo. Great work, the pair of you!

Sort that flucking tow eye assembly out though, whilst you've got the chance.

Yeah, I hadn't decided whether to get a new one or tart up that one. Probably just clean up that one.

[vocky]

you will soon be able to drive it

[leevx2.2]

Looking good it even looks like a vx nice colour good job

[theolodian]

Cheers guys. Yes, it is looking more and more like a car, and it should be able to drive around the parking lot soon. The red parts in the background are ready and waiting to go to the paint shop.

[theolodian]

Today's update: I didn't get foam blocks sorted so have not installed the rad yet. Also, the expansion tank from Autovaux was the wrong one. It has an extra little inlet at the top. Or is that all you can get these days? I did clean up the rad surround and the crashbox, and install the rad in the surround with new hardware. I also put the rad hoses on the hard lines in the tub. Who was it that complained about Forge not wrapping their rad well in the GP? They owe me 15 minutes of my life. The rad was wrapped in bubble wrap, a ton of cling film, and another big lot of bubble wrap! I also finally got the second drop link off. What a PITA. The new ones from Elise-Shop don't have much of a flat on them, so I wouldn't recommend them over ones with an allen key socket. Either way I would have had to cut them off, I trashed the big flats on the OE droplinks getting them off as it was. I had to loosen the brake MC to test fit the rad surround, so I need to remember to tighten that up later. Also, some of my wiring routing is going to have to be redone. Now that the crash box is on some parts don't go in and around very nicely. I got the rad fan brackets off the old rad, and brought those home along with the tow eye bracket to get those cleaned up and painted. Hopefully get the little bits sorted and have the rad in by the end of the week.

[theolodian]

Big update to the list;

Suspension work:

Tighten front ARB o/s lower bolt
Rear toe links
Drop links and TREs
P-clips
Front brake discs
Caster shims
Bleed brakes

Crash box phase 1:

Rivet in footwell bracket
Battery
Glue crashbox
Wire mesh on air inlets
Foam blocks for radiator

Crash box phase 2:

Install fan on radiator
Install radiator and surround
Fill coolant and bleed heater
Route wiring
ABS cutoff?
Tow bracket

Dash and interior:

Hammerite roll bar
Remove sound deadening panels
Clean dash and floor

Underneath:

Scrub floor
Footrest
Oil change

Engine bay:

Refill gear oil
Gearbox breather
Expansion tank
Fuel filter
Spacer plate for rear clam
Rear tow eye?

[vocky]

I think I know how to sort the trapped air in the front brakes, position the caliper so that the flexi is at the bottom and the bleed nipple is at the top (so the caliper is on it's side), thats how I did Fab's front brake hoses

[theolodian]

I think I know how to sort the trapped air in the front brakes, position the caliper so that the flexi is at the bottom and the bleed nipple is at the top (so the caliper is on it's side), thats how I did Fab's front brake hoses

Worth a shot. Rad on and all running now. New rear toe links are fine pitch thread on inner and outer joints where the old ones were normal pitch thread. Of course they didn't come with nuts so we couldn't finish putting them on today.

[theolodian]

Other news is that both clams are off to the paint shop and my new TD 1.2 wheels arrived. The fronts are 16x7 ET20 and the rears are 17x8 ET33 and do not use spigot rings. I plan on getting KU31 tires, 205 fronts and 225 rears (195 fronts seem to be perpetually out of stock.) Also, the rear brakes had to come apart to get the rear toe links off. There is a reasonable lip on the edge of the discs. I was already considering doing all 4 discs and CL5+ pads before, but now have decided to go ahead and do it. Lastly, I bought the new Sachs coilovers from SteveA. I know that I need an uprated ARB with them, but will deal with that later.

[Duncan VXR]

Good stuff sir I would try to get 195's if poss but if they are not available 205's will be fine DG

[theolodian]

It drives! Down on the ground for the first time and drove it around the building a bit. Yipee!!!

[BRG_Pete]

It drives!

That is great news .

[Duncan VXR]

Dont stack it another milestone reached