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#121 The Batman

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 05:08 PM

i dunno how you did it without modding every little bit!

#122 theolodian

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 05:20 PM

i dunno how you did it without modding every little bit!

It is a slippery slope. I had to hold back almost completely or it would have never gotten done for want of time and money. I spent enough time sorting out rusted fasteners as it was. Just 10 mintues ago finished putting hammerite on the bracket and bits for the bonnet latch so that those can all go back in tomorrow. Going to have to order all plated or stainless fittings for the undertrays, etc.

That said, I plan to get GAZ Pros and have a proper alignment done. I may also get TD 1.2 wheels and Kumhos. Now that the stock exhaust is on I doubt that I will do anything about that, at least for a while. I also got Mr Simba's radio and will probably do speakers.. :rolleyes:

Next winter I hope to do homebrew ITBs and build a Megasquirt to run them. :P

#123 vocky

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 05:23 PM

It was good to hear it running, sounded very sweet for an engine which hasn't run for almost two years Imnotworthy

#124 theolodian

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 05:26 PM

It was good to hear it running, sounded very sweet for an engine which hasn't run for almost two years Imnotworthy

On 2-year old petrol! :lol:

#125 vocky

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 05:28 PM

my very first question, even before the exhaust was fitted, was ... "have you got fresh fuel in the tank" reply "no" :rolleyes:

#126 theolodian

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 05:32 PM

I knew that fuel went bad, I did not know that it went THAT bad! :wacko: I'll be sure to warn my dad to be more careful with his boat. ;) That thing often sits for 6 months or more.

#127 theolodian

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 07:05 PM

Here is a pic of the current condition of the project. Pretty much the minimum re-assembly required for the engine to run, but that it does!


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#128 theolodian

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 08:56 PM

Bu&&er, I just realised that I need to pull the battery back out, and maybe the heater box. I need to rivet an alloy cover back into the footwell from the front compartment. It covers the wiring harness next to the pedals as seen in the pic above. You don't usually remove this part, but it had to come out to swap the wiring harness over. Ah well, a couple steps back as usual! :lol:

#129 The Batman

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Posted 20 February 2010 - 09:53 PM

you could have changed the header tank :lol:

#130 theolodian

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 10:02 AM

you could have changed the header tank :lol:

I'm taking donations. :P


Yeah, Vocky berated me for that too. :rolleyes: I will get one. Certainly still easy to change without the clam on. ;)

Am I the only one that thinks that it looks like Luke Skywalker's land speeder thingie in that photo? Now that it has the exhaust and no suspension?

#131 Zoobeef

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 12:09 PM


Am I the only one that thinks that it looks like Luke Skywalker's land speeder thingie in that photo? Now that it has the exhaust and no suspension?


Yeah looks good haha

Its picking up speed very nicely now chinky chinky

#132 theolodian

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 07:49 PM

Well, DuncanVXR could only go AWOL from swmbo for an hour but we still managed to get the suspension on in that time. Big thanks for running the bank of missus points into overdraft! ;)

For future reference, the rear jacking point was the center of gravity and putting the rear suspension on first made it tip back. :rolleyes:

The suspension is only on loosely, and no castor shims. Need more parts on the car and it to be sitting on the ground to tighten everything up. I will probably let Guglielmi's do all of that when they do the geo at the end.

Posted Image

Yes, I am going to replace the front discs! Also, the rear toe links are worse than I thought. I may have to go for the EP kit. :unsure:

I also finally got the shear panel under the fuel tank torqued down. The rivnuts on that were a pain! Plenty of other little things done today too, they sure add up though in terms of time.

Didn't get the shifter cables in, plan to do that this week. Won't be much more in the way of visible changes for a while now. Also, I remembered some foam blocks that go under the corners of the windscreen behind the sills. I need to sort those out before I put the sills on. :rolleyes:

Edited by theolodian, 21 February 2010 - 07:52 PM.


#133 vocky

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 07:54 PM

it's really coming along now Imnotworthy soon be time to bleed the brakes and clutch :D ps: wheres the front anti roll bar :poke:

Edited by vocky, 21 February 2010 - 07:55 PM.


#134 theolodian

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 08:01 PM

it's really coming along now Imnotworthy

soon be time to bleed the brakes and clutch :D

ps: wheres the front anti roll bar :poke:

Cheers!

Yeah, well my arms were dead after doing all 4 corners in an hour! They're heavy and to boot the bloody lower rear wishbones really didn't want to go in. Much use of the pursuader was required. :P

#135 rsg

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 08:18 PM

They're heavy and to boot the bloody lower rear wishbones really didn't want to go in.


Wait until the caster shims :9mm:

looking good Theo thumbsup. If you need a closer look at any cable routing (or anything else for that matter), I'm back in Leamington from Thursday till the end of the weekend. Pop round and take a peak on mine chinky chinky

#136 theolodian

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Posted 21 February 2010 - 08:23 PM

Wait until the caster shims :9mm:

looking good Theo thumbsup. If you need a closer look at any cable routing (or anything else for that matter), I'm back in Leamington from Thursday till the end of the weekend. Pop round and take a peak on mine chinky chinky

That's why I'll probably let Guglielmi's do them. Caster is part of the geo isn't it? :P

Cheers. I'm off to the Med on Thursday so maybe next time. chinky chinky

#137 Duncan VXR

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 10:02 AM

Theo the bank is most definetly empty.......in fact I am overdrawn LOL Picture looks a lot better with the suspension back on ;) Tuesday evening should be fine :P Those rear toe links are fooked :D and makes full sense to give Steve and the boys the pain of setting the car up :) On a plus point there was some forced induction M5 wanting a play on the way back - VERY quick car, and flames out of 4 exhausts was funny. Was not that quick though ;) had a very quick chat at the lights and said it was running just over 500bhp - sounded very nice :) Well that was 147 miles out of the last tank of fuel (larger tank :o) and half of that was nice driving. It was so low this morning and late for work I stole the ford ka def not enough fuel to risk the petrol run and left phone at home....DOH! Got to love mondays. DG

#138 theolodian

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 01:02 PM

Do I need to get some wine for you to take back? ;) Dave at Guglielmi's says the EP rear toe link kit is fine to use after doing yours. Looks like I will get that and the GAZ Gold Pros or whatever they're called these days. Steve says the 350/425 standard spring rates should be good on the stock front bar. Steve says that you don't want lower than 350 on the front unless running an uprated bar. Or do I really want the EP 7/8" adjustable bar. :unsure:

#139 Duncan VXR

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 01:21 PM

Well flowers were a start yesterday ;) Yep the EP ones on mine have been fine since fitted, sure there was a bit of the kit not used (brackets?) As always seem to trial things on mine :P Worth asking noplex what his thoughts were of that uprated ARB as he is on golds and ran them for a week before I fitted the uprated bar this weekend. Set to middle setting. I have the same bar fitted and if it was for not getting the 7/16th so cheap I would have gone for the 1" version. IMO it is not ideal going to full ideal to go much stiffer on setting due to the angle of the drop link. On mine I did notice the front sharpen up a bit, sure the 650R & 550F / 525F - cant remember springs help :P

#140 theolodian

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 09:40 PM

Well, spent an hour and a half this evening on a few small jobs. Tried to tighten up the rear HCBs but the bolts are trying to go deeper now that there aren't any camber shims and that part of the thread has rusted. Need to chase them with a tap. :rolleyes: Got the cabin heat plenum in under the windscreen. That was pretty straight-forward. Getting the wiper motor in on top of it was a royal pain! It is so hard to snake in there, kept moving the linkage and trying different angles. However, that was only half the battle. That one bolt on the end is a barsteward! Moron designers. :angry2: Got it done in the end, now have a windscreen wiper and no windscreen. ;)




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