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Haggi's New Project


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#221 haggi961

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 11:06 PM

You still in the donny area? wouldnt mind coming for a look at your car


No sorry mate im more closer to york then doncaster, but if you ever wanted to come up here then thats fine as i would love to see your new beast :) .

#222 JG

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 09:10 AM

the new CF kit is :wub:

#223 haggi961

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Posted 24 November 2011 - 12:33 PM

the new CF kit is :wub:


It is a cracking bit of kit and engineered to perfection thumbsup

#224 haggi961

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 10:59 PM

I fitted my toe link on the weekend which was a lot easier then i thought it was. Its all coming along nicely with the orange theme now, just need to get the arb fitted then get the tyres, geo and tracking sorted then its ready for next year :D
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New bolts for the front and rear calipers along with some corrosion grease.
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#225 techieboy

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:15 PM

You know you need to be using threadlock on the caliper bolts and not grease, don't you? :wacko:

#226 haggi961

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:43 PM

You know you need to be using threadlock on the caliper bolts and not grease, don't you? :wacko:


Yeah i do, the grease is for the uniballs of the toe links for when they need repacking in the future.

#227 techieboy

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:50 PM

I was advised to use some high temp moly grease on my Spitfire kit.

#228 haggi961

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 11:59 PM

I was advised to use some high temp moly grease on my Spitfire kit.

So the stuff ive got wont be any good do you reckon? Cheers for the tip anyway and i will have to get some for when they need repacking if the stuff ive got wont be any good.

#229 techieboy

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 12:09 AM

No idea. Until I had this car, I had no idea there were quite as many types of grease and threadlock available. I seem to have a garage full of different things that only seem to get used on one particular component on the car. I've got a tub of that corrosion block grease as well but haven't actually read what it's properties are. :wacko:

#230 FLD

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 09:17 AM

Looking good dude. Its tough work aint it.

#231 haggi961

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 12:58 PM

No idea. Until I had this car, I had no idea there were quite as many types of grease and threadlock available. I seem to have a garage full of different things that only seem to get used on one particular component on the car.

I've got a tub of that corrosion block grease as well but haven't actually read what it's properties are. :wacko:


Ive been looking at the details of the stuff and its seems good enough for the toe link and other stuff.
Multi Purpose High Performance Grease

WON'T SOFTEN, BREAKDOWN OR WASH OUT.
Corrosion Block Grease strongly resists water wash out and provides superior protection against rust and corrosion.
Corrosion Block Grease outperforms lithium and most synthetic greases and meets or exceeds requirements for NLGI Service Classification GC-LB (automotive wheel bearing and chassis lubricants), which is based on ASTM D4950 performance requirements.


Features:
Excellent extreme pressure (EP) properties

Excellent thermal stability

Outstanding oxidative stability

Non conductive / dielectric

Contains no heavy metals or environmentally objectionable materials

Superior corrosion protection and salt water resistance

Outstanding low temperature mobility

Compatible with most grease types

Distinctive Aqua colour


WHAT IS CORROSION BLOCK?

It's no secret that equipment downtime, repair and replacement are expensive. It is also no secret that regular scheduled preventive maintenance is cheaper than the repair or replacement of expensive equipment.

In these days of dwindling maintenance budgets and closer scrutiny of operating costs and procedures, you can show a real saving through preventive control of corrosion.

Corrosion Block can be described as a clean, clear, ultra-thin fluid which leaves a non-greasy atmospheric barrier to protect the base metal on interior surfaces. Corrosion Block leaves no gummy residue because it contains no wax, resin, tar, asphalt, silicone or telfon.

Corrosion Block anti-corrosion compound is a state-of-the-art material developed for the marine industry. Corrosion Block has three superior features:
It is superior anti-corrosion compound.
It kills corrosion in progress
It prevents new corrosion cells from forming for 12-18 months
It is an excellent penetrant.
It is an excellent light lubricant.

Electrical Uses

Corrosion Block has the ability to remove moisture, combined with its excellent penetrating and strong dielectric properties, have brought a number of electronics 'back from the dead' with just one application. The Corrosion Block removes the moisture from the corrosion byproduct, then isolates the corrosion byproduct from the electrical circuit. Corrosion Block can be used in many different electrical and electronic applications without fear of damage. And it won't harm any plastics or painted surfaces and is actually good for rubber, keeping it from cracking and drying out.

Edited by haggi961, 08 December 2011 - 12:59 PM.


#232 Andrew aka Stuwy

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 01:57 PM

with all those new shiney parts, you could have cleaned your arch :lol: looking good chinky chinky

#233 haggi961

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 05:12 PM

Looking good dude. Its tough work aint it.


It all came off really easy tbh and the only real problem I had was the dam washer in the front wishbones, as I had to get 4 of them on one side of the bush. It is something that I would do it again but not on my car lol

#234 haggi961

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 05:17 PM

with all those new shiney parts, you could have cleaned your arch :lol:


looking good chinky chinky


Cheers. I did clean all in the arches if you look at a few photos back, that has just built up again from going for a quick spin.

#235 robin

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:02 PM

looks great with the orange powdercoating, what did you use to get the ali so clean around the suspension area?

#236 haggi961

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:54 PM

looks great with the orange powdercoating, what did you use to get the ali so clean around the suspension area?


Ive got some stuff called peek, its like a metal cleaner same stuff as autosol just not as harsh. If you are going to clean all the ali up dont spend to long in one spot as you could wear away the anodising leading to corrsion.

#237 VIX

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 10:55 AM

Stunning build thread mate. thumbsup It could be me trying to read too fast but I can't see any mention of what happened at Courtenay. Did you get there? chinky chinky

#238 haggi961

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 04:22 PM

Stunning build thread mate. thumbsup

It could be me trying to read too fast but I can't see any mention of what happened at Courtenay. Did you get there?
chinky chinky


Cheers mate. Yeah I did go to Courtneys but ran into a few problems with the car while we were there, so then we ran out of time for my chance on the dyno. Car is all fine now and ready for the dyno again, so was going to book it in after the bad weather. One thing they did do was remove my limter and fit the vxr injectors and all I can say about the power now is stupid quick lol thats why I got the a048 tyres as the ones I have now don't get much traction and just spin.

#239 haggi961

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 04:28 PM

What's people thoughts on a de/cat for my car. If it adds a couple bhp and I see a flame or two then I will be happy. Just not sure if it's worth the extra money.

#240 Bargi

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 04:32 PM

What's people thoughts on a de/cat for my car. If it adds a couple bhp and I see a flame or two then I will be happy. Just not sure if it's worth the extra money.


And you'll need to fit the cat back for MOT unless you have friendly mechanic?




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