284 replies to this topic

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

you should have ask me i got plenty of the good antifreeze 10 years life time:(...i can't drink it

[Sutol]

you should have ask me i got plenty of the good antifreeze 10 years life time:(...i can't drink it

hey shouldn't you be on the ITB conversion thread or is it a bit quiet over there

[techieboy]

with the charge cooler system is there a need to bleed the system from the pre rad end cos at present i haven't allowed for it?

Never needed to on mine the various times it's been drained. Just a case of keep pouring coolant mixture into the header tank with the pump going, until it reaches a sensible level.

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

hey shouldn't you be on the ITB conversion thread or is it a bit quiet over there

you have had your parts so now waiting for mine soon .....................nothing can be done until they are in uk

Edited by crazyfrog, 23 February 2010 - 10:51 PM.

[Phear]

Does anyone have a picture of how the courtenay tensioner attaches and the SC belt route?

[The Batman]

2 long bolts go through the tensioner and through the alternator to the block the pulley wheel should be at the top

[Jameshs]

Just getting the last of the bits together and I ave some other Q's:

1) What exactly is the Corsa Top Hose? I can deduce its from a Corsa and its connects to the top of something but I want to try and find one at a scrappies/breakers and I need to know what I'm looking for. What model corsa and which hose specifically is it? And what part does it play in the conversion?

2) My inlet manifold has MAP sensor on it (I presume its a MAP sensor). Now the parts list contains a "Top Map Sensor Blanking Plate" and a new MAP sensor. If the blanking plate is for the existing one, where does the new one go? Also I presume the N/A doesn't as standard have a MAP sensor? Only a MAF, so how does the MAP sensor wire into the ECU?

3) What goes in the "Alloy Joiner with Offset Temperature Sensor Socket"? I presume a themostat of some kind, but theres no stat on the list of parts?

I think I can figure out what everything else on the list is for, except perhaps the "Inlet Manifold Alignment Bungs" and "50mm Grommets" but I'm hoping those will make sense once I get started

Cheers

Phil

1) You need to mod the waterhose coming from the head. The SC snout will foul this hose, so you need to cut it and fit a different bend with a piece of alu tubing/clamps. Probably the alloy joiner 3) with temp sensor offset is used here and that temp sensor is used to start the fans at a lower temperature.

2) LSJ manifold has originally a TMAP sensor fitted. This needs to be changed for the Courtenay (2 bar?) Delphi MAP sensor. (Similar to the NA's 1 bar version.) You will need to bodge something so it fits into the wider TMAP hole. (I removed the orange seal, fitted a thin piece of rubber tube to thicken it up, refitted the orange seal over this and now it fits snug into my manifold. Plus a small bracket to secure it.)
The SC on the LSJ engine also has a "Super Charger Inlet Pressure" sensor fiitted on top. This hole must be blanked off in the 2,2 conversion. (I used it to connect the Petrol EVAP cannister hose...)

3) see 1)

The LSJ SC manifold is cast for the Saab head with 8mm studs. The 2,2 head has 6mm studs, so 2 allignment bungs (simple 6->8mm alu tube piece) are used to center the manifold on our heads.
50mm grommets? Can only think of grommets for the 19/28mm water hose through the sills...

Good luck!

Here is my tuppence worth.

Run the charge cooler pipes up the passenger side... easier, closer to the header tank, the inlet take offs are on that side and it saves running the pipes across the engine bay.

Have the header tank as hot so the hot runs fron the inlet to the top of the header. Then out the bottom and through the pump, then to the charge cooler and finally back to the inlet.

Use Kawasaki manifold studs, they are 6mm/8mm and work perfectly. Lee2.2VX knows more.

Send your ECU off to Courtenay for a base map, much easier than running tandem injector plugs.

Buy a loom from ZZP in the US for the injectors, makes life far more pleasant when wiring and only £30 delivered, you will spend £40 for the original Bosch ones from Vauxhall.

When priming the charge cooler pump it helps to pressurise the system, I used my lungs...

The Temp sensor thingy... I bought one from Demon Tweeks, it is a bit pricey but gives total control over the temp the fans cut in. Worth it in my opinion.

There are far more bits needed than are on RC Vaughan's list.

Have faith, it is easier than you think but have patience it takes longer than you think as well.

Hope this helps.

This wont work with the Pro Alloy pre rad as the fans are off set and the rad will only fit one way in the crash box and this is with the inlet/outlet on the O/S

Unless you want a big loop of tubing running round the front of the car.

Shame though as it would save the need for so much piping

[Phear]

Right then, making good progress today. Pre-rad and hoses in. ECU & Inlet manifold and injectors out. Header tank and oil catch tank mounted. Unfortunately I've had to leave it there as Courtenays were out of alignment bungs so until they get them to me I can't mount the intlet manifold. Typically I have yet more questions. First of all, the pipe came from the side of the inlet manifold. I presume it connects to the connector on the Supercharger (just past the throttle body): [attachment=21801:DSCN0631.JPG] This little pipe connected to the inlet manifold next to the throttle body. It has some sort of sensor in aswell which I presume needs relocating because it will be in the way of the supercharger pulley (hence why I have unbolted it). Where does this connect now though? [attachment=21802:DSCN0632.JPG] What is this little white connector underneath the inlet manifold? I don't recall disconnecting anything from it but I probably did. [attachment=21803:DSCN0633.JPG] The small pipe comming from the end of the injector rail (fpr pipe?) I presume needs connecing to the small take off on LSJ inlet manifond? I can now see where the courtenay tensioner goes (and I presume this is where I need the M6x80 bolts), but does it go tensioner at top or bottom (I guess probably figure it when I come to put the belt on)? Thanks again for all the help

[The Batman]

1st picture - connects to supercharger 2nd picture - connects to the tb 3rd picture - crank sensor? putting the courtenays adaptor wheel thingy on the alternator the wheel goes at the top

Edited by joe_589, 27 February 2010 - 03:44 PM.

[Phear]

Excellent thanks I didn't notice that connector on the throttle body There are 2 sensors down by that white connector (crank and knock sensor?) but both appear to be connected, that white connector comes off a wire that goes to one of those sensors (the one partially hidden from view). Whatever it is I can't see a connector that goes to it Here's a pic of my Pre-rad mounting: [attachment=21804:DSCN0634.JPG] Its not the biggest rad in the world but I think its the same size as the one you used original Joe. At £60 (plus £10 for the right angle connectors) if it isn't up to snuf theres room to mount a second one behind it

[vocky]

First of all, the pipe came from the side of the inlet manifold. I presume it connects to the connector on the Supercharger (just past the throttle body):

[attachment=21801:DSCN0631.JPG]

yes it does, use a jubilee clip to attach the hose

This little pipe connected to the inlet manifold next to the throttle body. It has some sort of sensor in aswell which I presume needs relocating because it will be in the way of the supercharger pulley (hence why I have unbolted it). Where does this connect now though?

[attachment=21802:DSCN0632.JPG]

that is the fuel tank vent valve, it needs to be mounted next to the charcoal filter and the pipe extending to the 68mm throttle body

What is this little white connector underneath the inlet manifold? I don't recall disconnecting anything from it but I probably did.

[attachment=21803:DSCN0633.JPG]

that is not used on the vx220, so you never removed it from a sensor.

The small pipe comming from the end of the injector rail (fpr pipe?) I presume needs connecing to the small take off on LSJ inlet manifond?

correct

I can now see where the courtenay tensioner goes (and I presume this is where I need the M6x80 bolts), but does it go tensioner at top or bottom (I guess probably figure it when I come to put the belt on)?

tensioner to the top

[The Batman]

Here's a pic of my Pre-rad mounting:

[attachment=21804:DSCN0634.JPG]

looks good.... but you or anybody else wont be able to track your car, no toeing eye

plus if you break down......

Edited by joe_589, 27 February 2010 - 04:05 PM.

[Phear]

that is not used on the vx220, so you never removed it from a sensor.

Hurrah I'm not going crazy

looks good.... but you or anybody else wont be able to track your car, no toeing eye

Yeah I know. When I rebuilt the front end last year after an "incident" the old towing eye fell apart when I removed it so I never replaced it. I intend to do so before I put the front clam back on.

[Sutol]

I struggled to get the plastic sills off today, they were really stuck on, just didn't want to give. In the end I heated up one of those bean bags that you get for bad backs, they're full of wheat or something. Put those on with some bubble wrap to keep the heat in and eventually managed to prise them off. Thought it was going to be a straight forward job

[Jameshs]

I struggled to get the plastic sills off today, they were really stuck on, just didn't want to give. In the end I heated up one of those bean bags that you get for bad backs, they're full of wheat or something. Put those on with some bubble wrap to keep the heat in and eventually managed to prise them off. Thought it was going to be a straight forward job

Did you only take the drivers one off? as you dont need the pax one removed

[Sutol]

I struggled to get the plastic sills off today, they were really stuck on, just didn't want to give. In the end I heated up one of those bean bags that you get for bad backs, they're full of wheat or something. Put those on with some bubble wrap to keep the heat in and eventually managed to prise them off. Thought it was going to be a straight forward job

Did you only take the drivers one off? as you dont need the pax one removed

nope took both of them off

[Zoobeef]

I struggled to get the plastic sills off today, they were really stuck on, just didn't want to give. In the end I heated up one of those bean bags that you get for bad backs, they're full of wheat or something. Put those on with some bubble wrap to keep the heat in and eventually managed to prise them off. Thought it was going to be a straight forward job

Some good improvisation haha, at least you didnt crack them

[Phear]

I struggled to get the plastic sills off today, they were really stuck on, just didn't want to give. In the end I heated up one of those bean bags that you get for bad backs, they're full of wheat or something. Put those on with some bubble wrap to keep the heat in and eventually managed to prise them off. Thought it was going to be a straight forward job

Did you only take the drivers one off? as you dont need the pax one removed

Depends whether you run the pipes down the drivers or pax side. I ran mine down the pax side, because when you get to the engine bay its a much cleaner pipe layout. I appreciate that it would be tricky to do with the pro-alloy rad tho.

[vocky]

why not just order the Pro-alloy chargecooler rad with the pipes coming out the passenger side

[The Batman]

it has been tested for up to 400bhp too