284 replies to this topic

[Seb.F]

You bet ya

[The Batman]

me too.... i was kind of hoping someone would bring me a beer... but i think it is unlikely!

[Seb.F]

No chance of that here either. I'm that bored I'm organising all my bits and bobs for the S/C conversion into little boxes depending on what they are for. Doing every little thing I possibly can as well to save time when it comes to fitting, already saved 15 minutes on that damn hose

[The Batman]

fancy bringing me a beer? you can see how long it takes you to bring me one then you can compare when you are sc'd

[Exmantaa]

Wait I'm confused now, to me personally it sounds better to have one inlet and two outlets for the purposes of maximising flow, and also so that the top one can relieve the air locked in the system quicker, but some are saying it's the other way round?

Both ways will work, as long as you keep the small orifices as inlets. But I like to get rid of any airpockets, so just like GM intended:

Edited by Exmantaa, 20 March 2010 - 09:17 PM.

[Sutol]

Exmantaa is correct. Middle pipe is inlet and the outside pipes are outlets. So as you look at the end of the manifold the cores should be replaced so you see the holes as big, little, little, big. Also, I recall Exmantaa advising that the large longtitudinal slot of the core should be adjacent to the opening in the manifold for best heat transfer.

[Seb.F]

I will do a couple tests on mine if I can get the time but the logical thing would be to have the middle two as inlet and the end two as outlet yes

[Sutol]

I will do a couple tests on mine if I can get the time but the logical thing would be to have the middle two as inlet and the end two as outlet yes

[Phear]

In terms of flow rate it shouldn't matter whether you have 2 ins and 1 out or vice versa (a restriction is a restriction regardless of where it is). However in terms of removing bubbles I would guess top (and bottom) out is best, however in terms of simplicity hose run I would say that 1 out is best.

[Sutol]

From the graphs i got from the dyno run the maximum boost my car is getting is 0.76bar. My car has the standard stage 2 pulley and full miltek exhaust. How does this compare?

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

pink soupercharger please

list a la org

1..........fab

[Sutol]

In terms of flow rate it shouldn't matter whether you have 2 ins and 1 out or vice versa (a restriction is a restriction regardless of where it is). However in terms of removing bubbles I would guess top (and bottom) out is best, however in terms of simplicity hose run I would say that 1 out is best.

with respect to heat transfer you should be making sure that the coolant outlet from the heat exchanger is in contact with the air as it enters. So as the air passes thru the heat exchanger it progressively hits cooler coolant temps thus maximising the heat exchange. On single pass this is why the inlet for the coolant from the prerad should be the connection furthest from the charger.

In practical terms I would imagine that this would make naff all

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

pink soupercharger please

list a la org

1..........fab

[Seb.F]

In terms of flow rate it shouldn't matter whether you have 2 ins and 1 out or vice versa (a restriction is a restriction regardless of where it is). However in terms of removing bubbles I would guess top (and bottom) out is best, however in terms of simplicity hose run I would say that 1 out is best.

Not strictly true, with regards to the Y piece, it will disrupt the flow slightly more if the coolant is flowing from 1 into 2 than it will if there is 2 flowing into one, but that's just minor stuff that really won't make a huge difference. The main difference is that it just seems a lot lot easier to have inlets in the centre and outlets on either end for removal of air & transfer blah blah, anyways I will try and test it and see if it makes bugger all difference or not.

[JG]

I wish i could remember what i post. Its only taken me two years to get here. (see page1)

[JG]

so first job is to remove clam, then remove old radiator, which was leaking on this vx so it was a good job the owner bought an alloy rad too

then cut a section of loom from the old fan, swap the wires over on the plug, simply use a small screwdriver to release the pins, then connect the loom to the new fans - thus keeping the wiring colours correct.



then fit the charge cooler rad to the engine rad



cut a couple of holes into the rad surround to allow the charge cooler pipes to fit




while you have the holesaw put a couple of holes in the wheelarch



next job is to remove the sill cover and then make the hole larger



refit the rad surround



then use a piece of copper tubing and push it from behind the rear wheel into the sill area until it reaches the sill opening, remove the copper pipe and attach one charge cooler pipe to it then push the pair back to the sill opening, thread the pipe to the chargecooler and attach it with a suitable jubilee clip, repeat for the other chargecooler pipe and withdraw the copper pipe



then it's time to refit the clam

I'm ordering some new tools at the moment, and i fancy a new set of hole saws, what size are those holes?

32mm?

[CocoPops]

You've got a set of hole saws....? Floating around the boot of the 206 non? (Makita set)

[JG]

have I?

[CocoPops]

Yes You unwrapped the set at TT's (top right of the box set iirc) is a set of holesaws

[JG]

I dont think they are hole saws...