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#101 oakmere

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 01:44 PM

£300.00 + is a lot to pay for valve springs!

Cheers Oakmere

depends how safe you want yor engine to be... £300 and no bouncing springs and any problems sounds good to me :rolleyes:



:yeahthat: I fully agree



Also totally agree but don't see the point in changing items that are not required. I am planning on 7000 being the limit. Also there are downsides to increasing the spring rate on the valve-train such as added losses.

Cheers Oakmere

#102 Seb.F

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 02:21 PM

Good thread, am keeping my eye on this now! :P

#103 Sutol

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Posted 07 January 2010 - 11:57 AM

Dismantled my 2nd hand intake manifold and stripped the red paint off it. The cores were really oiled up. I've cleaned them as much i could in truck wash which has got rid of most of it but there is still some residue. Don't know whether it would be of any use getting them any cleaner - thoughts please.

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end plate removed to expose cores

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4 dirty cores

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Close up of cores

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Cores removed from manifold

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Red paint removed

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Core after 24 hour soak in truck wash

#104 Winstar

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Posted 07 January 2010 - 12:11 PM

It's worth getting them as clean as possible as engine oil, as I'm assuming that's what it is from CCV, is a good insulator so will reduce the efficiency of the CC. Also the gap between the fins is also very small 0.3mm IIRC so even a small quantity of oil will reduce the flow area.

#105 vocky

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Posted 07 January 2010 - 12:37 PM

I had to clean out a sc inlet manifold once, I soaked the cores in paraffin, brushed off the excess and then blew them out with an air line thumbsup

#106 Sutol

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Posted 07 January 2010 - 01:43 PM

Thanks Vocky i'll try that. I was going the hot dip route otherwise. Looking at these things its hard to see how they work at all.

#107 Sutol

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Posted 08 January 2010 - 02:31 PM

Word of warning to anyone getting a secondhand intake manifold. When I was cleaning the manifold casting I found to potentially engine wrecking chunks of metal which must have been stuck in the crap. I don't know where they're from. At first I thought it was one of the core o ring seats within the manifold which would have meant getting a new intake manifold because there would be no way you could fix it. But that all checks out and i can't find any other damage so can only assume that it was from the engine that it was attached to. Anyway the metal bits only became apparent when I was giving the manifold a really good clean. Needless to say once its all reassembled I'll pressure test the coolant side just in case I have missed something.

#108 Exmantaa

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Posted 08 January 2010 - 11:24 PM

Watch the orientation of the big slots on assembly. These should line up with the air slots in there. And while you have it apart; flip the cores over and make a dual pass system. thumbsup

#109 Sutol

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 10:18 AM

Watch the orientation of the big slots on assembly. These should line up with the air slots in there.
And while you have it apart; flip the cores over and make a dual pass system.
thumbsup

I didn't know that about the slots chinky chinky I was going to post today to find out if there was a correct rotation.

Re dual pass I thought you needed a different endplate :unsure: I know the orientation for dual pass, the inlets are the 2 middle cores ie the small holes are at the endplate end, the other 2 are the outlets, large holes at the outside. So on the endplate you have one inlet and 2 outlets. If i'm wrong then great because I want to get every bit of cooling i can get.

#110 Exmantaa

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 11:40 AM

Watch the orientation of the big slots on assembly. These should line up with the air slots in there.
And while you have it apart; flip the cores over and make a dual pass system.
thumbsup

I didn't know that about the slots chinky chinky I was going to post today to find out if there was a correct rotation.

Re dual pass I thought you needed a different endplate :unsure: I know the orientation for dual pass, the inlets are the 2 middle cores ie the small holes are at the endplate end, the other 2 are the outlets, large holes at the outside. So on the endplate you have one inlet and 2 outlets. If i'm wrong then great because I want to get every bit of cooling i can get.



You just need to (let somebody) fabricate a middle connection pipe (20mm) into the endplate. Any alu welder can make that for you.
Middles are entrance and small holes, both ends are the outlets so big holes to the plate like you said.

#111 Sutol

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 07:19 PM

Has anyone got any pics of their dual pass endplate. Also a pic of the intake manifold with the dual pass installed

#112 techieboy

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 07:25 PM

Courtenay modified end plate installed:-

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LeeVX2.2 has some decent pics of the end plate he got modified. Might be worth a PM if he doesn't see this.

#113 leevx2.2

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 07:41 PM

I got mine done for a £5 but if you go to any engineering company they could do it for less than £100 that courtney charge. thumbsup
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#114 Sutol

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 07:58 PM

Could i get mine done where you got yours done Lee :P Actually wanted to see how the extra piping complicated the engine bay.

#115 The Batman

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 08:06 PM

its not completed as 2 go into 1 pipe thumbsup

#116 leevx2.2

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 08:07 PM

Could i get mine done where you got yours done Lee :P

Actually wanted to see how the extra piping complicated the engine bay.

I might be able to get it done but not for a £5
My piping is pritty neet as i have fitted header tank behind seats so pipe comes out of tank into pump and into intake pipe on charger.
I can take a few pics if you wanted thumbsup

Edited by leevx2.2, 09 January 2010 - 08:08 PM.


#117 leevx2.2

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 08:09 PM

its not completed as 2 go into 1 pipe thumbsup


Like this This is Mats

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Edited by leevx2.2, 09 January 2010 - 08:19 PM.


#118 Sutol

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 08:11 PM

its not completed as 2 go into 1 pipe thumbsup

yep got that, just requires a tee in the pipework. Just thought that it's quite tight in there and was concerned that the pipework would have to do some quick turns to fit.

edit/ cheers Lee just wanted to see what it looked like under the bonnet thumbsup

editx2/ that inlet connection looks dead rude :lol:

Edited by Sutol, 09 January 2010 - 08:14 PM.


#119 The Batman

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 08:13 PM

put a Y in as a T makes it very tight you can put the Y piece wherever you like :)

#120 Sutol

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 08:25 PM

I've ordered the same header tank as Jameshs which sits behind the engine header, so i'll have a chat with him to see if it's at all feasible. Lee for the record could you give me an idea of cost at some stage chinky chinky




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