284 replies to this topic

[Phear]

Does anyone have anywhere to get the Dual Pass Mod done other than Courtenays? £100 is a way over the odds IMHO. I'm gonna start looking for somewhere local but wondered if anyone had someone they'd used already and who'd be prepared to do another?

[Seb.F]

Warning.

Be sure the dual pass mod is fitted correctly otherwise it will foul the oil filter housing and make fitting the inlet manifold impossible.

Must take note of that I think! Did it happen to you? Or is it just a warning?

[Mike (Cliffie)]

Warning.

Be sure the dual pass mod is fitted correctly otherwise it will foul the oil filter housing and make fitting the inlet manifold impossible.

Must take note of that I think! Did it happen to you? Or is it just a warning?

My warning comes from experience... Not nice to see a grown man cry.

Lee knows a fella that did his and was excellent and knows what he is doing. Sadly the guys that did mine did an excellent job, finished to perfection but too bloody long.

When you get it done, don't bother getting it out at a right angle, it needs to be a straight pipe coming out at about 30 degrees towards the back to clear the oil filter housing.

Edited by Cliffie, 17 February 2010 - 09:29 PM.

[Seb.F]

Oh dear, is it alright now? What are you having to do to it?

[Sutol]

thanks for the heads up Cliffie. I've decided that 250 is enough for me and have not gone for the dual pass option. However i did make some enquiries. A company near me can do the welding for £40 as longs as I supply the bend with the rolled end. On that basis £100 is a good ball park figure if the bend has to be made to spec. Just to throw the cat amounst the pigeons, is dual passing going to make that much difference to the lsj manifold heat xchanging properties especially with relatively low grade heat exchange temps?

[Sutol]

Cliffie can you do a 'cut and shut' on it to modify it?

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

Cliffie can you do a 'cut and shut' on it to modify it?

got few's meat cleaver in the kitchen if that help:P
mind your old back chris .....

[Sutol]

Cliffie can you do a 'cut and shut' on it to modify it?

got few's meat cleaver in the kitchen if that help:P
mind your old back chris .....

backs been fine since i got my zimmer frame

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

backs been fine since i got my zimmer frame

:D
have you finnish btw or are you doing it this week end chris

[Sutol]

backs been fine since i got my zimmer frame

:D
have you finnish btw or are you doing it this week end chris

no mate, I'll be weeeeeeeee weeeeeeeeeing mid march - hopefully fingers crossed

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

no mate, I'll be weeeeeeeee weeeeeeeeeing mid march - hopefully fingers crossed

i cross mine for you

[Phear]

Just getting the last of the bits together and I ave some other Q's: 1) What exactly is the Corsa Top Hose? I can deduce its from a Corsa and its connects to the top of something but I want to try and find one at a scrappies/breakers and I need to know what I'm looking for. What model corsa and which hose specifically is it? And what part does it play in the conversion? 2) My inlet manifold has MAP sensor on it (I presume its a MAP sensor). Now the parts list contains a "Top Map Sensor Blanking Plate" and a new MAP sensor. If the blanking plate is for the existing one, where does the new one go? Also I presume the N/A doesn't as standard have a MAP sensor? Only a MAF, so how does the MAP sensor wire into the ECU? 3) What goes in the "Alloy Joiner with Offset Temperature Sensor Socket"? I presume a themostat of some kind, but theres no stat on the list of parts? I think I can figure out what everything else on the list is for, except perhaps the "Inlet Manifold Alignment Bungs" and "50mm Grommets" but I'm hoping those will make sense once I get started Cheers Phil

[Sutol]

no mate, I'll be weeeeeeeee weeeeeeeeeing mid march - hopefully fingers crossed

i cross mine for you

I have done a lot of searching and asking questions on this forum which has been invaluable. Also I have persuaded a member of this forum to oversee the project who I have the utmost confidence in. I am, by nature, a bit of a pessimist (prefer 'optimist with wisdom' ) but we've done a lot of preparation and so any set backs will hopefuly be small. If there are any set backs they will be unforeseen (hopefully ).

[Sutol]

Phear my advice is to get on to Jon Shields at CMS who will explain everything to you. all the questions you asked and more are answered when you get talking to him. Word of warning I was on the phone to him for 1.25 hours!!!!

Edited by Sutol, 17 February 2010 - 10:22 PM.

[Exmantaa]

Just getting the last of the bits together and I ave some other Q's:

1) What exactly is the Corsa Top Hose? I can deduce its from a Corsa and its connects to the top of something but I want to try and find one at a scrappies/breakers and I need to know what I'm looking for. What model corsa and which hose specifically is it? And what part does it play in the conversion?

2) My inlet manifold has MAP sensor on it (I presume its a MAP sensor). Now the parts list contains a "Top Map Sensor Blanking Plate" and a new MAP sensor. If the blanking plate is for the existing one, where does the new one go? Also I presume the N/A doesn't as standard have a MAP sensor? Only a MAF, so how does the MAP sensor wire into the ECU?

3) What goes in the "Alloy Joiner with Offset Temperature Sensor Socket"? I presume a themostat of some kind, but theres no stat on the list of parts?

I think I can figure out what everything else on the list is for, except perhaps the "Inlet Manifold Alignment Bungs" and "50mm Grommets" but I'm hoping those will make sense once I get started

Cheers

Phil

1) You need to mod the waterhose coming from the head. The SC snout will foul this hose, so you need to cut it and fit a different bend with a piece of alu tubing/clamps. Probably the alloy joiner 3) with temp sensor offset is used here and that temp sensor is used to start the fans at a lower temperature.

2) LSJ manifold has originally a TMAP sensor fitted. This needs to be changed for the Courtenay (2 bar?) Delphi MAP sensor. (Similar to the NA's 1 bar version.) You will need to bodge something so it fits into the wider TMAP hole. (I removed the orange seal, fitted a thin piece of rubber tube to thicken it up, refitted the orange seal over this and now it fits snug into my manifold. Plus a small bracket to secure it.)
The SC on the LSJ engine also has a "Super Charger Inlet Pressure" sensor fiitted on top. This hole must be blanked off in the 2,2 conversion. (I used it to connect the Petrol EVAP cannister hose...)

3) see 1)

The LSJ SC manifold is cast for the Saab head with 8mm studs. The 2,2 head has 6mm studs, so 2 allignment bungs (simple 6->8mm alu tube piece) are used to center the manifold on our heads.
50mm grommets? Can only think of grommets for the 19/28mm water hose through the sills...

Good luck!

[Phear]

Thanks for that, starting to make a lot more sense now. I've had a closer look and whilst I can't find another sensor on the manifold there doesn't appear to be one on the charger itself towards the throttle body end (a small blank 3 pin sensor), is this the TMAP sensor?

[Exmantaa]

Thanks for that, starting to make a lot more sense now. I've had a closer look and whilst I can't find another sensor on the manifold there doesn't appear to be one on the charger itself towards the throttle body end (a small blank 3 pin sensor), is this the TMAP sensor?

No; T(emp)-MAP sensor is originally on the LSJ cast manifold near cylinder 1. This one is exchanged for the Courtenay MAP sensor. (No T measurement here on the 2,2's... )

That other MAP sensor (SCIP) is located on top of the supercharger, near the TB, and is not used on the 2,2.

[Mike (Cliffie)]

Just getting the last of the bits together and I ave some other Q's:

1) What exactly is the Corsa Top Hose? I can deduce its from a Corsa and its connects to the top of something but I want to try and find one at a scrappies/breakers and I need to know what I'm looking for. What model corsa and which hose specifically is it? And what part does it play in the conversion?

2) My inlet manifold has MAP sensor on it (I presume its a MAP sensor). Now the parts list contains a "Top Map Sensor Blanking Plate" and a new MAP sensor. If the blanking plate is for the existing one, where does the new one go? Also I presume the N/A doesn't as standard have a MAP sensor? Only a MAF, so how does the MAP sensor wire into the ECU?

3) What goes in the "Alloy Joiner with Offset Temperature Sensor Socket"? I presume a themostat of some kind, but theres no stat on the list of parts?

I think I can figure out what everything else on the list is for, except perhaps the "Inlet Manifold Alignment Bungs" and "50mm Grommets" but I'm hoping those will make sense once I get started

Cheers

Phil

1) You need to mod the waterhose coming from the head. The SC snout will foul this hose, so you need to cut it and fit a different bend with a piece of alu tubing/clamps. Probably the alloy joiner 3) with temp sensor offset is used here and that temp sensor is used to start the fans at a lower temperature.

2) LSJ manifold has originally a TMAP sensor fitted. This needs to be changed for the Courtenay (2 bar?) Delphi MAP sensor. (Similar to the NA's 1 bar version.) You will need to bodge something so it fits into the wider TMAP hole. (I removed the orange seal, fitted a thin piece of rubber tube to thicken it up, refitted the orange seal over this and now it fits snug into my manifold. Plus a small bracket to secure it.)
The SC on the LSJ engine also has a "Super Charger Inlet Pressure" sensor fiitted on top. This hole must be blanked off in the 2,2 conversion. (I used it to connect the Petrol EVAP cannister hose...)

3) see 1)

The LSJ SC manifold is cast for the Saab head with 8mm studs. The 2,2 head has 6mm studs, so 2 allignment bungs (simple 6->8mm alu tube piece) are used to center the manifold on our heads.
50mm grommets? Can only think of grommets for the 19/28mm water hose through the sills...

Good luck!

Here is my tuppence worth.

Run the charge cooler pipes up the passenger side... easier, closer to the header tank, the inlet take offs are on that side and it saves running the pipes across the engine bay.

Have the header tank as hot so the hot runs fron the inlet to the top of the header. Then out the bottom and through the pump, then to the charge cooler and finally back to the inlet.

Use Kawasaki manifold studs, they are 6mm/8mm and work perfectly. Lee2.2VX knows more.

Send your ECU off to Courtenay for a base map, much easier than running tandem injector plugs.

Buy a loom from ZZP in the US for the injectors, makes life far more pleasant when wiring and only £30 delivered, you will spend £40 for the original Bosch ones from Vauxhall.

When priming the charge cooler pump it helps to pressurise the system, I used my lungs...

The Temp sensor thingy... I bought one from Demon Tweeks, it is a bit pricey but gives total control over the temp the fans cut in. Worth it in my opinion.

There are far more bits needed than are on RC Vaughan's list.

Have faith, it is easier than you think but have patience it takes longer than you think as well.

Hope this helps.

Edited by Cliffie, 18 February 2010 - 10:31 PM.

[Exmantaa]

(nice find on the Kawasaki 6/8mm studs!) Only my CC waterhoses run through the right sill (VX driver side..) and as mine is an Opel Speedster no ABS on that side. Also my Pro-Alloy pre-rad connections are facing right.

[vocky]

Run the charge cooler pipes up the passenger side... easier, closer to the header tank, the inlet take offs are on that side and it saves running the pipes across the engine bay.

brilliant idea and gives a better pipe layout

Have the header tank as hot so the hot runs fron the inlet to the top of the header. Then out the bottom and through the pump, then to the charge cooler and finally back to the inlet.

the header tank will get heat soak from the engine, so another great idea

Use Kawasaki manifold studs, they are 6mm/8mm and work perfectly. Lee2.2VX knows more.

Lee is a genius

Send your ECU off to Courtenay for a base map, much easier than running tandem injector plugs.

if you can get the ecu done whilst doing the conversion it makes it much easier

Buy a loom from ZZP in the US for the injectors, makes life far more pleasant when wiring and only £30 delivered, you will spend £40 for the original Bosch ones from Vauxhall.

this makes life much, much easier

When priming the charge cooler pump it helps to pressurise the system, I used my lungs...

pop round cliffie's for this method

The Temp sensor thingy... I bought one from Demon Tweeks, it is a bit pricey but gives total control over the temp the fans cut in. Worth it in my opinion.

worth doing to any vx220, you can set the temp for the fans to whatever you want

There are far more bits needed than are on RC Vaughan's list.

there are a few other little bits you need

Have faith, it is easier than you think but have patience it takes longer than you think as well.

the worst part is how long it takes