92 replies to this topic

[Muncher]

Does anyone have any tips on swapping the engine out and putting it back?

My plan of action is going to be to remove the clam, raise the car on blocks slightly so I can get good access underneath and then lift it out from the top.

My main questions are what stuff can be left attached, I am assuming the following do not need to be touched?

- Exhaust left in situ
- Wheels on
- Wishbones on
- Gearbox and driveshafts left alone


What other things need to come off, or can stay in place?

I finally got to use my blocks of paper to raise the car the other day which was very handy! A4 paper, about as much as you would get in a normal box, faced on all sides with plywood then wrapped in a lot of gaffer take and rubber mats on the top and the bottom, works a treat!

[NickB787]

Techieboys/Vocky know they has just done his

[John Faulkner]

bloody hell, make sure it don't fall off those blocks!!!!!!! i'd personally leave the box on the engine, but its upto you.....

[techieboy]

Pretty much all of the ancillaries need to come off with the exception of the water pump (waits for Vockys correction here). Crank pulley needs to come off as will SC, inlet manifold, fuel rail, starter motor, alternator and engine mounts. Then you should be able to separate it from the gearbox and with a bit of jiggling, lift it out.

[vocky]

having removed one or two z22se engines I would..... disconnect battery (quite important !) remove rear clam drain coolant drain engine oil drain chargecooler system (sc only) remove exhaust manifold remove inlet system remove fuel rail and injectors (cable tie fuel pipes out of the way) remove starter motor remove alternator + belt tensioner remove crank pulley (very important if leaving gearbox in place) remove coilpack (just to stop it getting damaged) disconnect engine loom from engine (you don't need to remove it from the car) remove oil cooler fitting from engine block (to avoid damage) remove the special 'vx220 only' oilway blocking metal/spring thingy (it sits inside the oil filter housing, they are extremely hard to get - don't lose it) remove lower oil pipe + fitting from block disconnect / remove anything else which might get damaged or I've missed off the list then connect an engine hoist to the engine using correct lifting straps (either straps under the engine or use the engine lifting brackets) remove the offside engine mounting alloy bracket remove the gearbox bellhousing bolts (two next to exhaust, two above gearbox, one above starter motor, two under engine) then it's probably time to lift the engine out, it needs to come out (and go back in) by moving the front of the engine towards the bulkhead, you will need to lever the engine off the gearbox and then simply lift it up and out

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

having removed one or two z22se engines I would.....

disconnect battery (quite important !)
remove rear clam
drain coolant
drain engine oil
drain chargecooler system (sc only)
remove exhaust manifold
remove inlet system
remove fuel rail and injectors (cable tie fuel pipes out of the way)
remove starter motor
remove alternator + belt tensioner
remove crank pulley (very important if leaving gearbox in place)
remove coilpack (just to stop it getting damaged)
disconnect engine loom from engine (you don't need to remove it from the car)
remove oil cooler fitting from engine block (to avoid damage)
remove the special 'vx220 only' oilway blocking metal/spring thingy (it sits inside the oil filter housing, they are extremely hard to get - don't lose it)
remove lower oil pipe + fitting from block
disconnect / remove anything else which might get damaged or I've missed off the list

then connect an engine hoist to the engine using correct lifting straps (either straps under the engine or use the engine lifting brackets)
remove the offside engine mounting alloy bracket
remove the gearbox bellhousing bolts (two next to exhaust, two above gearbox, one above starter motor, two under engine)

then it's probably time to lift the engine out, it needs to come out (and go back in) by moving the front of the engine towards the bulkhead, you will need to lever the engine off the gearbox and then simply lift it up and out

is this what i need to do on mine as well

[vocky]

is this what i need to do on mine as well

what are we doing to yours, I've forgotten

if it's balancer delete, steel rods and head then yes engine out

[Crazyfrog (Fab)]

is this what i need to do on mine as well

what are we doing to yours, I've forgotten

if it's balancer delete, steel rods and head then yes engine out

oups need to get the gear organised clam off i guest where is joe those days college or love

[FLD]

I'd go Johns route. Driveshafts out then engine and box in one go. You can then strip the ancilliaries on a stand to save your back bending over the motor in the car. Minimal work in car more on the stand in a nice warm workshop (utility room in my case.)

[NA Jimbo]

remove the special 'vx220 only' oilway blocking metal/spring thingy (it sits inside the oil filter housing, they are extremely hard to get - don't lose it)

Vocky, I've been meaning to ask you this for a while since you talked me through my engine swap last year. The part you mentioned above, what exactly does it do? When I swapped mine over I struggled to refit it and may have loosened or tightened the threaded part. I wondered if this could affect oil pressure in any way and be contributing to my smoke at redline?

[vocky]

remove the special 'vx220 only' oilway blocking metal/spring thingy (it sits inside the oil filter housing, they are extremely hard to get - don't lose it)

Vocky, I've been meaning to ask you this for a while since you talked me through my engine swap last year. The part you mentioned above, what exactly does it do? When I swapped mine over I struggled to refit it and may have loosened or tightened the threaded part. I wondered if this could affect oil pressure in any way and be contributing to my smoke at redline?

I think you mean the alloy ring which screws onto the block and the filter lid screws into that, if thats loose then you only get an oil leak.

I'm talking about the small 'metal clip / spring / bolt' which is inside the filter / block, this diverts the oil pressure into the oil cooler, without it the oil cooler won't work

[theolodian]

I'd go Johns route. Driveshafts out then engine and box in one go. You can then strip the ancilliaries on a stand to save your back bending over the motor in the car. Minimal work in car more on the stand in a nice warm workshop (utility room in my case.)

I am certainly happy that I did mine that way, to the point that I would do it that way again even if not tearing down the rest of the car.

[vocky]

I'd go Johns route. Driveshafts out then engine and box in one go. You can then strip the ancilliaries on a stand to save your back bending over the motor in the car. Minimal work in car more on the stand in a nice warm workshop (utility room in my case.)

thats quite a bit of extra work, but is another option which I've used before on my vx, but I'm lazy and try to achieve my goals with the least amount of time / effort / money

[Muncher]

Pretty much all of the ancillaries need to come off with the exception of the water pump (waits for Vockys correction here). Crank pulley needs to come off as will SC, inlet manifold, fuel rail, starter motor, alternator and engine mounts. Then you should be able to separate it from the gearbox and with a bit of jiggling, lift it out.

Why would you separate these in the car? Can't you disconnect the wiring and lift it all out as one then do it off the car?

John - there's next to no chance of it falling off those blocks, they really don't want to budge at all.

Thanks vocky, that's magic. I probably would have forgotten about the bit in the filter housing!

I have a battery cutoff switch which will save some faffing with the battery.

Why does the starter and alternator need to come off to lift it out? I presume the crank pulley must come off just to get it to clear the subframe or can it stay on?

[vocky]

you have two options; leave all the ancillaries on or take them all off to leave them on means the gearbox must come out with the engine, if you don't want to remove the gearbox then take them all off you need all the clearance a stripped block provides to remove the engine with the gearbox untouched

[Zoobeef]

Its all to get the extra room to seperate the engine and gearbox i think. Theres not much extra work to remove the box with it and will be alot easier to get to all the ancilleries once its on the bench Edit: to slow

Edited by zoobeef, 12 November 2009 - 08:34 PM.

[vocky]

it's not hard to remove the parts from the engine, once you've done it a few dozen times but slipping the gearbox out at the same time isn't hard, just drop off the passenger lower wishbone, remove the two shim bolts and then the driveshaft and hub can be removed, the offside just needs the tiebar disconnecting from the hub, then you can swivel the hub and remove the offside driveshaft from the gearbox then lift the lot out, simples

[NA Jimbo]

remove the special 'vx220 only' oilway blocking metal/spring thingy (it sits inside the oil filter housing, they are extremely hard to get - don't lose it)

Vocky, I've been meaning to ask you this for a while since you talked me through my engine swap last year. The part you mentioned above, what exactly does it do? When I swapped mine over I struggled to refit it and may have loosened or tightened the threaded part. I wondered if this could affect oil pressure in any way and be contributing to my smoke at redline?

I think you mean the alloy ring which screws onto the block and the filter lid screws into that, if thats loose then you only get an oil leak.

I'm talking about the small 'metal clip / spring / bolt' which is inside the filter / block, this diverts the oil pressure into the oil cooler, without it the oil cooler won't work

the metal clip is the part I'm talking about, is there an incorrect way of fitting that may cause my oil pressure to get too high forcing oil through the breather causing my smoke at 6k revs? I remember struggling a bit when fitting it to my new engine and may have accidentally adjusted the tension on it..

[Muncher]

That's great, the only bits that I haven't removed before are the starter, the oil pipe into the block and the feed to the oil cooler.

[vocky]

the metal clip is the part I'm talking about, is there an incorrect way of fitting that may cause my oil pressure to get too high forcing oil through the breather causing my smoke at 6k revs? I remember struggling a bit when fitting it to my new engine and may have accidentally adjusted the tension on it..

it's designed to block the oilway, so worst case it doesn't and the oil cooler won't work

it is a git to fit, long nosed pliers help