92 replies to this topic

[techieboy]

When I removed mine from the spare block they were a real pain to get moving. I had to get liberal with the WD40 on the inner/hidden section then I had to use a hammer to tap the tabbed section to get them to move around in their holes. Once I'd broken the seal, I then had to use a screwdriver to lever them up enough to get a decent grip to pull them out. I supported the levering screwdriver by resting it across the top of another screwdriver to try and minimise the risk of damaging the block.

[Muncher]

I've been liberal with the WD40 but not on the inner side. I used a punch and a hammer and only managed to get one of them turning by about 10mm, doesn't even want to turn back now...

[Muncher]

Grrrrr, I spend ages whacking at one shaft trying to get it out, and it shattered, really did not want to move at all but it finally came out, quite messy and broken.


Then we stumbled on this idea and the other just popped out, why couldn't we have thought of that before???

[techieboy]

Doh. Glad you got there in the end though.

[Muncher]

Oh what a pain in the arse this is! Managed to get the all the clam fixings off today but there has been sporadic heavy rain and high winds which have meant we've not taking the whole clam off yet. New bottom end is all cleaned up, rinsed with petrol, deleted balnce shafts in, balance shaft chain assembly all back on and mating surface of the head cleaned. Weather permitting tomorrow the engine will come out and I can begin transferring over the head, timing chain and other little bits. Why did this have to happen in November??? ps. vocky the sump off the engine I got (assume from a Vectra or Astra) seems to have an identical sump to the VX, I didn't think they were all baffled??

[Muncher]

Just planning for tomorrow, how does the oil takeoff around the filter housing come off? Does the whole thing twist? This engine swap business is not much fun!

[vocky]

deleted balnce shafts in

I hope you forced the rear bearings back 7.5mm

the sump off the engine I got (assume from a Vectra or Astra) seems to have an identical sump to the VX, I didn't think they were all baffled??

all z22se sumps are baffled, the vx220 sump has a removable baffle but the vectra is riveted in place

[vocky]

Just planning for tomorrow, how does the oil takeoff around the filter housing come off? Does the whole thing twist? This engine swap business is not much fun!

you need to unscrew the top section, the part with the pipes doesn't move whilst undoing it

as with most car related jobs, they are fine when theres no rush, but when something has to be done it becomes rather tedious

[Muncher]

Yep, bearings knocked back in 7.5mm I'm not entirely sure what you mean about the oil cooler/pressure sensor bit but I guess it will become obvious when we get there. The baffle in my VX sump isn't removable, they're identical... It all wouldn't be so bad if there was a nice warm workshop to do it in!

[Muncher]

[Muncher]

Hmm, I have suspicions that the oil pressure switch wasn't even connected! I can't remember taking it out this morning, neither can my Dad and it looked a little wet inside so I can only assume it wasn't plugged in for some reason?? Engine is out now though!

[Muncher]

Clam off




Engine Out


A big hole, a pretty tight fit!





Vocky, the bit which you forgot to mention to take off was the balance chain over, that all needed to come off to get clearance.

[vocky]

Vocky, the bit which you forgot to mention to take off was the balance chain over, that all needed to come off to get clearance.

I used to remove the cover, it does make it easier, but you can leave it in place. You do however need to twist the engine during removal/installation.

I would advise you to leave it off upon reinstall as it takes a little practise to install the engine with the cover in place. But don't forget the water pump bolt !!!

Edited by vocky, 15 November 2009 - 07:39 PM.

[Muncher]

Right, time to swap over some of the bits today. Just to confirm a few things: - Swapping over the heads is just a case of cleaning the remnants of gasket off the hold engine and torqquing correctly with the new bolts? - The oil filter housing can be removed with large plumbers grips cushioned with something rather than the correct tool for taking it off? - Clutch I have 2 spare new ones which are ready to go in, just a case of bolting on?

[Muncher]

Does every little bit of the existing head gasket residue need to be removed? There is only minimal amounts left but I am trying to be careful and not unduly scrape the head too much (doing it very gentley with a wide blunt screwdriver). Now pretty much ready to put the head on I think, will be tricky to hold the block still whilst applying the necessary torque I think... I also have a choice of 3 clutches to put on, the original one off my VX which seems barely worn and another 2 I have here from Courtenay which are new but don't really seem any thicker at all. Thoughts?

[vocky]

check the springs inside the pressure plate, they may be slightly loose on the used plate otherwise they last a long time on a 2.2, unlike the vxT

[Muncher]

Engine is back in, just. Has been a long day, everything seems to take ages! Chain cover needs to go back on, and the infamous waterpump bolt (can this be shortened at all?) Then just about every ancilliary needs to go on before it can be started for the first time!

[Sammy]

Your getting through it quite quickly though! Is this your first engine change?

[vocky]

the trick with the water pump bolt is to fit that bolt first. put the bolt through the chain cover and fit the pair together, it's easier to remove the front and rear engine mount bolts and move the engine towards the bulkhead. I use a different method but the above method is the easiest

[Muncher]

Your getting through it quite quickly though!

Is this your first engine change?

Yeah I guess so, but I have had time off. I don't envy anyone who has to do this day in, day out!

It's the first time I've taken an engine totally out and the first time I've really built a whole engine.