92 replies to this topic

[Muncher]

the trick with the water pump bolt is to fit that bolt first.

put the bolt through the chain cover and fit the pair together, it's easier to remove the front and rear engine mount bolts and move the engine towards the bulkhead.

I use a different method but the above method is the easiest

What's your method Neil?

We managed to get that bolt out with the engine in situ and on its mounts but it was really tricky

[casino]

[vocky]

What's your method Neil?

We managed to get that bolt out with the engine in situ and on its mounts but it was really tricky

it involves using a pick axe handle as a lever to gently move the engine the 30mm it needs to allow the bolt to slide in with the cover

but it does work a treat

[Muncher]

So leaving the nearside front and rear mounts connected and just using brute force to push it away?


As it is now :




Here's and example of one of the big end bearings:

[FLD]

So leaving the nearside front and rear mounts connected and just using brute force to push it away?


As it is now :




Here's and example of one of the big end bearings:

Nice wood collection mate.
Are the big ends beyond a regrind and oversize bearing? Cant really tell from the pic.

[Muncher]

I think my Dad needs to take the credit for the wood collection To be honest the crank actually looked in good condition so I wouldn't have thought it was beyond salvage at all.

[vocky]

So leaving the nearside front and rear mounts connected and just using brute force to push it away?

it's more gentle steady pressure between the subframe and block, loosen the front and rear mounting bolts first

[Muncher]

Another question for you vocky I got there eventually but it seemed unecessarily hard this time... When replacing the timing chain, exactly what sequence do you go through as this time I found it very tough to get it on. I put the cam gears on, lined them up with the correct links. This wouldn't give me enough slack in the chain to get it over the crank pulley with the long guide rail in place and I couldn't get the rail in with it in place. I eventually swore a lot and managed it but is it always that tricky?

[vocky]

I think my Dad needs to take the credit for the wood collection

one can never have enough good timber

personally I love ash, but beech is so easy to work with

[vocky]

Another question for you vocky I got there eventually but it seemed unecessarily hard this time...

When replacing the timing chain, exactly what sequence do you go through as this time I found it very tough to get it on.

I put the cam gears on, lined them up with the correct links. This wouldn't give me enough slack in the chain to get it over the crank pulley with the long guide rail in place and I couldn't get the rail in with it in place. I eventually swore a lot and managed it but is it always that tricky?

I've perfected my method now....

cable tie both cam sprockets to the chain (aligning the marks of course), fit the inlet cam bolt finger tight and fit the exhaust cam sprocket bolt leaving the sprocket loose from the cam, align the lower sprocket and then take up the slack between the inlet cam and crank sprockets by turning only the crank, then move the exhaust cam with a spanner until the sprocket engages in the cam, tighten the bolt finger tight and then fit the released tensioner to tension the chain before finally tightening them to the correct torque (I always release the tensioner BEFORE fitting)

[theolodian]

Another question for you vocky I got there eventually but it seemed unecessarily hard this time...

When replacing the timing chain, exactly what sequence do you go through as this time I found it very tough to get it on.

I put the cam gears on, lined them up with the correct links. This wouldn't give me enough slack in the chain to get it over the crank pulley with the long guide rail in place and I couldn't get the rail in with it in place. I eventually swore a lot and managed it but is it always that tricky?

I've perfected my method now....

cable tie both cam sprockets to the chain (aligning the marks of course), fit the inlet cam bolt finger tight and fit the exhaust cam sprocket bolt leaving the sprocket loose from the cam, align the lower sprocket and then take up the slack between the inlet cam and crank sprockets by turning only the crank, then move the exhaust cam with a spanner until the sprocket engages in the cam, tighten the bolt finger tight and then fit the released tensioner to tension the chain before finally tightening them to the correct torque (I always release the tensioner BEFORE fitting)

As a witness to this method, I have to say that it is pretty slick.

[Muncher]

Another question for you vocky I got there eventually but it seemed unecessarily hard this time...

When replacing the timing chain, exactly what sequence do you go through as this time I found it very tough to get it on.

I put the cam gears on, lined them up with the correct links. This wouldn't give me enough slack in the chain to get it over the crank pulley with the long guide rail in place and I couldn't get the rail in with it in place. I eventually swore a lot and managed it but is it always that tricky?

I've perfected my method now....

cable tie both cam sprockets to the chain (aligning the marks of course), fit the inlet cam bolt finger tight and fit the exhaust cam sprocket bolt leaving the sprocket loose from the cam, align the lower sprocket and then take up the slack between the inlet cam and crank sprockets by turning only the crank, then move the exhaust cam with a spanner until the sprocket engages in the cam, tighten the bolt finger tight and then fit the released tensioner to tension the chain before finally tightening them to the correct torque (I always release the tensioner BEFORE fitting)

Cheers vocky, I will note that for next time, why can't they put that method on TIS?

[Muncher]

Getting a bit fed up today, combination of the weather and this dragging on a bit now

On the to do list before starting the engine is:

- Fit SC bolts (does anyone have the length of the 4 bolts please? mine are all different lengths it seems :/ )
- Fit inlet manifold supporting bracket (I think I'm going to have to get right under the car to do this)
- Fit SC drive belt
- Remove exhaust to double check the packing and also I can't fit the manifold over the studs in the head until this is out

I also appear to have an oil leak, which I think is coming from where the dipstick enters the sump (I can't see where else that could come from?) Should I seal it with anything?

Headrests are gone now though at least!

[Exmantaa]

Supercharger bolts are normally all the same length, but I will not dismantle mine to measure... The lower manifold bracket is easy to reach lying under the car and there should be a small o-ring on the dipstick as seal. Maybe that's missing/damaged?

[Muncher]

I think it may not be pushed in fully, I think there are 2 o rings that are on there. Just one of those days where everything seemed difficult and having a cold didn't help really!

[Seb.F]

Must have missed this thread, will give it a quick read later!

[Muncher]

Just been to the breakers to finally collect the 182k engine I bought from a breakers which I am going to sell off. Helpfully they decided to deliver it to me for free as they live just around the corner. Unhelpfully I think it's going to arrive with pretty much half a Vectra front end attached to it!!!

[Muncher]

Such a nightmare I can't seem to get the SC belt on, with the tensioner back as far as it will go there doesn't seem to be enough slack at all, I really can't work out what is going on :/ To top it all I've discovered that the the sump has a small crack in it which is leaking out oil. It's hardly gushying out of there but there is certainly a very slow drip drip from it. Can it be fixed with some liquid metal type stuff? I'd prefer not to have to take the whole sump off again as that's a pain in the backside to do

[vocky]

if the oil sump is leaking with a cool engine then it will leak like a sieve when hot the sc belt requires the sc to be unbolted, tilt the sc and slip the belt on, then push down the sc and bolt it up

[Muncher]

Having just looked at a fairly poor picture of it I think it may extend slightly further than I had thought, I will swap it

Edited by Muncher, 25 November 2009 - 06:20 PM.