4722 replies to this topic

[Ormes]

Done some more digging:

 

Fans:

Uses relay K13 in the front bonnet... permanent live from black/green, ground activated by blue/grey and fused by fb12 in the front bonnet.

 

Aux pump:

Uses relay K82 in the engine compartment (boot)... permanent live from brown/violet, ground activated by violet/orange and fused by fr3 in the engine compartment (boot)

 

No chance of violet/orange being in the loom under the centre console with blue/grey so if I wanted the same or independent switches to operate the pump from there, cable would need to run through from the rear.

 

http://www.speedster...left Z20LET.pdf

 

 

[Ormes]

As hard as it is to look on my phone it's a permanent live.

 

 

Done some more digging:

 

Fans:

Uses relay K13 in the front bonnet... permanent live from black/green, ground activated by blue/grey and fused by fb12 in the front bonnet.

 

Aux pump:

Uses relay K82 in the engine compartment (boot)... permanent live from brown/violet, ground activated by violet/orange and fused by fr3 in the engine compartment (boot)

 

No chance of violet/orange being in the loom under the centre console with blue/grey so if I wanted the same or independent switches to operate the pump from there, cable would need to run through from the rear.

 

http://www.speedster...left Z20LET.pdf

 

 

Hi Zoobeef... I am very inexperienced when it comes to reading diagrams... how do you identify switched vs. permanent by looking at the diagrams?

[Zoobeef]

If you look at this page with the relay on. http://www.speedster... Z20LET - 2.pdf Follow the wire to the top, VT 0.75 and goes to fuse 3 (point 209). So you have to find point 209, they are on the bottom of the pages. 209 is on voltage distribution 1 here http://www.speedster...ibution - 1.pdf Go to 209 at the bottom and above that is 945 and the VT 0.75 wire from the other page (945 is where you've come from) Follow up through Fuse 3 and up the Z20Let side onto BN 6. This goes up through the 50a fuse to the main wire at the top. Follow that wire left and it goes on to voltage distribution 2, top right. http://www.speedster...ibution - 2.pdf That wire goes all the way left and down straight to the battery. So the whole way from the battery to that relay there is nothing but a few fuses.

[Ormes]

Many thanks for taking the time to explain that Zoo

[Ormes]

Done some more digging:

 

Fans:

Uses relay K13 in the front bonnet... permanent live from black/greenbrown, ground activated by blue/grey and fused by fb12 in the front bonnet.  Black/green then provides the switched power to the fan.

 

Aux pump:

Uses relay K82 in the engine compartment (boot)... permanent live from brown/violet, ground activated by violet/orange and fused by fr3 in the engine compartment (boot).  Brown/violet then provides the switched power to the pump.

 

No chance of violet/orange being in the loom under the centre console with blue/grey so if I wanted the same or independent switches to operate the pump from there, cable would need to run through from the rear.

 

http://www.speedster...left Z20LET.pdf

 

 

Corrected the above...

[techieboy]

Was just wondering... as I have a fan override, and it would be nice to get it running in conjunction with the pump so it had some use when the engine is off

 

Surely it's an after run pump anyway and if the ECU decides it's needed, it'll run on for 10 minutes after the engine is turned off, like most vaguely modern cars? Make sure the auxiliary pump is physically working and either leave it to the car to decide if it's needed or hook up a proper turbo timer type box to run it for a defined period (either time or temp based) after the engine is turned off. Manual switch is only likely to mean the pump gets forgotten about one day and flattens your battery. 

[Ormes]

Get what you are saying techie... and I know you are right...

 

Absolutely no need to have a fan override either... but I wouldn't be without mine.

 

I know I am trying to solve problems that maybe don't exist, but was thinking it could be useful on track to cool it quicker between sessions... or on the rare occassion that I need to shut the car down without cooling down properly first (I avoid this like the plague).

 

Really don't like the idea of a turbo timer... and neither do insurance companies.

 

 

PS... sorry Nev... I will stop spamming your thread now

[techieboy]

Really don't like the idea of a turbo timer... and neither do insurance companies.

 

Yeah, I don't mean an old skool turbo timer to keep the engine running.

 

More whatever the equivalent controller is for keeping an electric coolant pump running (i.e. exactly what the ECU presumably currently does, if the pump works at all). Davies Craig make some as I was looking at them when toying with doing a Vocky and binning the crank driven mechanical water pump.

[Nev]

The pumps are more robust that you think, the motor is in a separate compartment to the water and uses electromagnetic inductance to drive the water turbine wheel. Mine works fine on a 11 year old car. Thanks for the explanation Zoo, I think I know which relay I need to "short out" with a switch.

[Nev]

I woke the neighbours up early this morning and had a wonderful 80 mile blast round the country roads. The car is now 0.5 Kg heavier due to insect "hitchhikers".
 

 
I am still finding there isn't enough downforce at the front, the current splitter is doing almost nothing at the current ride height (95mm) unfortunately. Any ideas anyone?

Edited by Nev, 22 June 2014 - 09:15 AM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Take some downforce of the back stop the front from lifting

Edited by CHILL Gone DUTCH, 22 June 2014 - 09:31 AM.

[Nev]

Take some downforce of the back stop the front from lifting

Yea, that's a possiblity, by cutting my pylons on the wing down by about 1 inch, that would put the wing in less clean air which would presumably reduce downforce on the rear by a bit. The pylons are deliberately set as far forward on the car as I could, so the moments of leverage from the fulcrum of the rear axle to the wing pylon is quite short, so the overall leverage of the wing on lifting the front up is minimal.

[Nev]

Take some downforce of the back stop the front from lifting

Yea, that's a possiblity, by cutting my pylons on the wing down by about 1 inch, that would put the wing in less clean air which would presumably reduce downforce on the rear by a bit. The pylons are deliberately set as far forward on the car as I could, so the moments of leverage from the fulcrum of the rear axle to the wing pylon is quite short, so the overall leverage of the wing on lifting the front up is minimal. (Re-)moving the number plate holder would help a bit too I think, as it projects forward of the spoiler.

Edited by Nev, 22 June 2014 - 09:39 AM.

[Jason]

 

Take some downforce of the back stop the front from lifting

Yea, that's a possiblity, by cutting my pylons on the wing down by about 1 inch, that would put the wing in less clean air which would presumably reduce downforce on the rear by a bit. The pylons are deliberately set as far forward on the car as I could, so the moments of leverage from the fulcrum of the rear axle to the wing pylon is quite short, so the overall leverage of the wing on lifting the front up is minimal.

 

 

Can you not just change the angle of the wing so its slightly flatter.

[Nev]

Can you not just change the angle of the wing so its slightly flatter.

Hmmm, possibly, it is already at almost no rake angle though (roughly 2 or 3 degrees), so the wing is actually working like and aeroplane wing (except inverted), as opposed to working as an inefficient deflector. Having said that I could drill out the adjuster slot on the pylons a bit and get the angle of attack to 0 degrees.

Edited by Nev, 22 June 2014 - 12:31 PM.

[Nev]

Oh dear, went into the garage 30 mins ago to find that the exhaust (even though it's wrapped) has melted the main water pipe that leads from the block into the sill. I had been noticing a faint rubber melting smell for approx 1.5 years, I guess this was it.

 

If anyone has a spare pipe for sale please let me know. Thanks.

 

Edited by Nev, 22 June 2014 - 02:18 PM.

[chris_uk]

have you cut away your wheel arches ?

[Nev]

have you cut away your wheel arches ?

My wheel arches were cut away to install the wider bodywork, though Im not sure if you mean this in the context of the pipe above? The pic is taken from the top passenger side of the engine bay.

[Ormes]

I've got a sheet of nimbus if you need some?

[Nev]

I've got a sheet of nimbus if you need some?

Thank you Alex, very kind as it is expensive stuff, but I have some as well (left over from my old exhaust shield which I no longer use). I think the solution with the new pipe will be to trim off approx. 1" from the end that enters the sill, this will have the effect of pulling the pipe away from the exhaust. I will then wrap the water pipe with a few turns of exhaust wrap as well. Just being an extra 2 CM away from the exhaust will make a big diff and stop it happening again.

Edited by Nev, 22 June 2014 - 02:54 PM.