4722 replies to this topic

[FLD]

You can link two spanners together to get some extra ooompf.  Just slot the open end of one into the ring of another (oooeeeerr).  Its a bit pikey but I do it from time to time.

[Ormes]

I've got a blow torch if needed

[Nev]

Hmm, good idea Matt, I'll try it. Thanks for the offer Alex, lets hope it doesn't comes to pointing a blowtorch at Nipper !

[Ormes]

What could go wrong

[VXT Tim]

What could go wrong

[TheHood]

Pikey 2 spanners is good as long as you don't slip. If we're into tool abuse territory why not just slog the sh1t out of the ring end of the spanner?

 

And just to check, it's not a reverse thread is it?

[Phil]

Left hand thread

[Nev]

Ohh fook, so one end of the toe bar is left hand thread and the other end is right hand ?! Arghhh...

[TheHood]

[Mopeytitan]

Pikey 2 spanners is good as long as you don't slip. If we're into tool abuse territory why not just slog the sh1t out of the ring end of the spanner?

 

And just to check, it's not a reverse thread is it?

 

I was going to suggest this. Make sure your turning it the right way  

[FLD]

Ohh fook, so one end of the toe bar is left hand thread and the other end is right hand ?! Arghhh...

 

PMSL!

[Nev]

Hoorah, easy peasy when you turn the nut the correct way - thanks for solving my "brain fart" guys I celebrated this success by sticking an extra shim in that hub carrier too, so both rears are now cambered to 2.2 degrees. This is still a bit too much for a road car perhaps. I will take it for a drive tomorrow and see how much these 2 changes have made, maybe another 1mm shim on both sides will bring that down to about 1.9 degrees camber on both sides - which is what the book recommends.

Edited by Nev, 23 July 2014 - 10:37 PM.

[jules_s]

I've got to say this mate Remember last year when we discussed Nipper and I drove/broke it up by the place that did my suspension and geo? I pretty much argued the devil with the bloke who did my car about what should and shouldn't be done with spring rates and arb's. His attitude/stance was that I was trying to put race settings on a road car...and if I did...I would end up with the seeming pitfalls you have encountered I'm not saying go see him. I'd just suggest you ignore most of the track biased geo mumbo jumbo posted on here if you want nipper to be sensible on the road Catch up soon mate, I need to drive the bloody thing more

[Nev]

I'd just suggest you ignore most of the track biased geo mumbo jumbo posted on here if you want nipper to be sensible on the road Catch up soon mate, I need to drive the bloody thing more

I agree entirely, I am returning all the geo settings back to road spec (step by step over the last week) and almost each change has improved the handling. In fact, I am running even less front camber than "book spec".

[siztenboots]

I run with 2.5° on the back and do a lot of road miles , never been a problem

[Nev]

I run with 2.5° on the back and do a lot of road miles , never been a problem

I have to admit the rears seem to exhibit diff characteristics to the front. For a start my rears were -2.2 and -2.8 degrees negative camber. Last night I put shims in to reduce the side from -2.8 degrees back to -2.2 and have yet to go for a drive to see how that feels (hopefully better). Having said that, the sides of my rear tyres usually wear evenly (apart from the centre line which wears more quickly), so it "appears" that having a relative large negative camber of approx. 2.2 to 2.8 degrees is not impacting tyre wear (which I would not have expected). However when driving on roads, I do find that the car is still over sensitive to changes of camber on the road, particularly when I step one side of the car over the white lines in order to overtake, sometimes there can be quite a strong pull to the side. I am wondering if this is to do with the seemingly high rear camber settings? I will also experiment with reducing the rear camber to about -1.8 and see if this helps reduce this problem. Lastly, I am keen to get the rears setup such that they can put all my power down as safely as possible, so to do this presumably camber needs to be 0 degrees when it squats down hard under acceleration. I am still unclear about what happens to camber as the rear squats, does it become more negative or more positive? I am guessing more negative, but I have yet to determine this, anyone know for sure? I find this stuff quite absorbing and I've been surprised how such small changes can add up to substantial handling changes overall. I am however slowly drawing the conclusion that to get the best handling manners for your car you really need to experiment and test it repeatedly on the tarmac surfaces that you drive on. I think it has to be an iterative process to really get what you desire.

Edited by Nev, 24 July 2014 - 07:43 AM.

[Exmantaa]

How is the condition of your (rear) susp. bushs? I feel to have a lively rear over different road surfaces and found quite some movement in my rear upper wishbone. Sticking some new (OEM rubber) bushes in this weekend to see if that improves things...

 

 

[Ormes]

One thing to consider possibly?... I have always wanted a pretty neuteral setup, and when running standard power and standard 175 billies on the front, always ran the front softer in an attempt to keep understeer to a minimum.

 

When I went stage 2 and 16/17 with decent rubber... I was supprised when Liam set it up to be 2 clicks softer at the rear than the front... this was apparently to allow the rear to squat a little to get the power down easier.

 

Reason I mention this is that you run the rear 3 clicks harder at the rear than the fronts, and have a lot more power to put down than I do.

 

Bear in mind that I am sharing my experience of a few conversations with a few people rather than an in depth understanding... just something to think about?

 

Cheers

[Nev]

Yes, that's a good question, I did inspect/test my front ones for play a few days ago, but have not tried pulling the rear ones about yet. Will do so next time I'm under there. The car has spent most of it's life in a garage (both me and the last owner) and so far the rubbers on the car have not suffered too badly, however the time for swapping all the bushes will come one day...

[Nev]

When I went stage 2 and 16/17 with decent rubber... I was supprised when Liam set it up to be 2 clicks softer at the rear than the front... this was apparently to allow the rear to squat a little to get the power down easier.
 
Reason I mention this is that you run the rear 3 clicks harder at the rear than the fronts, and have a lot more power to put down than I do.

At the moment I do have the fronts set with more damping than the rear. This is better for putting power down, but I do find that the front of the car tends to float/flap over ripples and bumps rather than soaking them up.

Also, I must have changed my damper settings about a dozen times in the last week, I usually write it all down with my findings, but due to changing so many things at the same time in the last couple of days I've given up. Once I get the rear cambers fixed at what I feel is best I will resume with the damper settings.

Also, the other night, I managed to long term borrow my neighbours quite expensive Geo kit with mirrors, it looks a bit rusty but is functionally sound. I put it on my front wheels and was delighted to find that it measured exactly 0 degrees camber on the front, which exactly matched my desired setting from using the string and pole setup last week

Edited by Nev, 24 July 2014 - 08:43 AM.