4722 replies to this topic

[Nev]

Nev have you ever thought about compoud charging Nipper ?

 

Yes, I did think about it a bit several years ago and drew up some rough plans and thought about the different configurations and clutch/bypass options. However now with my new ECU + maps there is little point really.

 

Why, are you thinking about it ?

[Kieran McC]

Nev have you ever thought about compoud charging Nipper ?

  Yes, I did think about it a bit several years ago and drew up some rough plans and thought about the different configurations and clutch/bypass options. However now with my new ECU + maps there is little point really.   Why, are you thinking about it ?

No no and no pockets not deep enough

[Nev]

Did a lot of mileage this weekend. The best bit was taking Josh out for 180 mile blast at dawn. We had a hoot, I toggled the power switch to 520 BHP mode and we laughed our heads off with the warp speed. On one stretch we saw 0 cars for 5 miles, all on HRH's wonderful twisty carriageway.

Edited by Nev, 07 July 2015 - 01:07 PM.

[joshua]

Yep another morning of carefully judged bedlam in Nev's psychotic car! Best UK road trip ever. 520 bhp VX and you have to concentrate just to keep your eyeballs straight... But I have to say again even fully using this power and since the car now stops properly the chassis copes really rather well and never feels much overwhelmed.

[siztenboots]

so the tyres are upto the job then?

[Nev]

I really like the 595 RSRs, they are a great compromise, cheap, last quite long, pretty grippy when warm, acceptable when wet. Wheel spin is possible in 1st gear and maybe 2nd gear depending on what power level I am running. Once in 3rd gear in the dry it's safe to boot it. BTW, even in these hot summer temps I haven't seen IATs go over 42 degree C yet and that is even with prolonged high revage. I went out with Al (MopeyTitan) on here last weekend and even with some 5 miles stretches the IATs were well under control, he even remarked how quickly they dropped when returning to normal speeds

Edited by Nev, 10 July 2015 - 01:53 PM.

[Mopeytitan]

I really like the 595 RSRs, they are a great compromise, cheap, last quite long, pretty grippy when warm, acceptable when wet. Wheel spin is possible in 1st gear and maybe 2nd gear depending on what power level I am running. Once in 3rd gear in the dry it's safe to boot it. BTW, even in these hot summer temps I haven't seen IATs go over 42 degree C yet and that is even with prolonged high revage. I went out with Al (MopeyTitan) on here last weekend and even with some 5 miles stretches the IATs were well under control, he even remarked how quickly they dropped when returning to normal speeds

Yup the IAT's never got above 40 and as soon as you let off they dropped really fast! Your CC is definitely earning it's money there ::

[Nev]

I have been "familiarising" myself with the power switch and the resulting extra 125 BHP midrange of power recently. However, this resulted in me smelling mild burning the other day, so I had a look round the car this afternoon. I discovered that one of my front wheel arch liners had detached itself from 2 of those terrible self tapping things and was rubbing on the tyre. I have replaced both the self-tappers with a nylock nut and bolt that cant come undone in future. Did yet another oil change the other day as well (the interval I allow is only 1200 miles), so this is a regular thing on Nipper :/

Edited by Nev, 16 July 2015 - 04:54 PM.

[Nev]

My Hela UP32 vacuum pump arrived from Romania this morning (thank you Alex). I plumbed it in to the car within 20 minutes and did a vac test on it. It makes about 10% more vacuum than the old diaphragm pump. Having taken the car out for a good test drive, the brakes are that bit better and quite confidence inspiring now. With all the warm temps the tyres are gripping like billio at the moment and I am coming to the conclusion that the car could handle more power. I might consider installing a SC now, as that would be the best of both worlds, providing low down torque, and if I don't bypass the SC then it would give more shove at the top end. I'd only want a titchy little SC'er, as I'd prefer minimal inertia. Just thinking aloud ATM.

Edited by Nev, 20 July 2015 - 01:38 PM.

[siztenboots]

how much duty does the TIAL do , could just put another small turbo on that , help spool up the biggun.

[Nev]

I'd have to hook up the laptop and remind myself. If I remember correctly at higher RPM its about 70%. It's tempting to go back to Chris and get it mapped to the max which would yield about 30 more BHP, though that wouldn't help at all with sub 3500 RPM pickup. With all the grip, I've been enjoying that wonderful turbo "swell" of 430 ft/lb on the power map, it's astonishing how quickly it picks up it's skirts from about 4500 RPM.

Edited by Nev, 20 July 2015 - 02:31 PM.

[Bargi]

My Hela UP32 vacuum pump arrived from Romania this morning (thank you Alex). I plumbed it in to the car within 20 minutes and did a vac test on it. It makes about 10% more vacuum than the old diaphragm pump. Having taken the car out for a good test drive, the brakes are that bit better and quite confidence inspiring now. With all the warm temps the tyres are gripping like billio at the moment and I am coming to the conclusion that the car could handle more power. I might consider installing a SC now, as that would be the best of both worlds, providing low down torque, and if I don't bypass the SC then it would give more shove at the top end. I'd only want a titchy little SC'er, as I'd prefer minimal inertia. Just thinking aloud ATM.

 

So the pump isn't running all the time get yourself a vacuum switch so it's only kicking in when needed.

Contact the guys at www.appeng.co.uk

VCN2C N 1/8K ZN VACUUM SWITCH - ZINC PLATED 1/8"BSPT, Nitrile diaphragm, Normally Closed

[Nev]

My Hela UP32 vacuum pump arrived from Romania this morning (thank you Alex). I plumbed it in to the car within 20 minutes and did a vac test on it. It makes about 10% more vacuum than the old diaphragm pump. Having taken the car out for a good test drive, the brakes are that bit better and quite confidence inspiring now. With all the warm temps the tyres are gripping like billio at the moment and I am coming to the conclusion that the car could handle more power. I might consider installing a SC now, as that would be the best of both worlds, providing low down torque, and if I don't bypass the SC then it would give more shove at the top end. I'd only want a titchy little SC'er, as I'd prefer minimal inertia. Just thinking aloud ATM.

  So the pump isn't running all the time get yourself a vacuum switch so it's only kicking in when needed. Contact the guys at www.appeng.co.uk VCN2C N 1/8K ZN VACUUM SWITCH - ZINC PLATED 1/8"BSPT, Nitrile diaphragm, Normally Closed

Thanks Ray, I've been struggling to find a cheap vac switch, will give them a ring.

Edited by Nev, 20 July 2015 - 02:36 PM.

[Ormes]

Nice idea ...but where the hell you going to put it?

[Nev]

Nice idea ...but where the hell you going to put it?

Between the passengers legs ?!

[Ormes]

Nice idea ...but where the hell you going to put it?

Between the passengers legs ?!

Coupe back

[steveboyslim]

I'd have to hook up the laptop and remind myself. If I remember correctly at higher RPM its about 70%. It's tempting to go back to Chris and get it mapped to the max which would yield about 30 more BHP, though that wouldn't help at all with sub 3500 RPM pickup. With all the grip, I've been enjoying that wonderful turbo "swell" of 430 ft/lb on the power map, it's astonishing how quickly it picks up it's skirts from about 4500 RPM.

 

 

I told you to get the engine mapped to the max and then if you want less power just press the accelerator pedal less.

I can always build you a 2.2-2.3 litre engine that would help with bottom end power.

 

Steve

Edited by steveboyslim, 21 July 2015 - 08:37 PM.

[Nev]

Welder

Yesterday I finally got round to buying the welder + gas I've been promising myself for 3 years or so. I bought an R-tech one based on good internet feedback, 2 year waranttee that is actually upheld, a couple of recommendations from people I know and the fact that the company is local to me.






Some of my first aluminium welds:



The objective is to learn some man skillz and to build a few miscellaneous things like a breather tank and importantly an exhaust that can get noise down below 105 dB, ideally below 100 dB.
 

 
Exhaust Design
 
This is my initial design/experiment made from 3" tube and sheet steel. It differs in design from any standard exhaust box for the VX220, this will reduce extra unnecessary pipework (weight) and make the gas flow round less bends.

Entry into the box will be perpendicular to the box, this eliminates 180 degrees of extra bend (where the OEM system routes via the cat into the side of the OEM box). On initial entry into the box the stream will be split by a Y-pipe with the top and bottom split mounted on a vertical plane. Then internally, the 2 paths of exhaust gase will travel down perforated pipes with bends, one path higher up in the box and one lower down in the box. This will naturally lead to the tailpipes which will exit the box in the standard config.

I plan to make the box very long, fairly wide and deep, such that it has a large volume. There is an option to possibly fit an electrically controlled butterfly flap and straight through pipe from the inlet Y to one of the tailpipes. This would yield almost no noise cancellation, but the maximum power, noise & flames. A switch could be mounted on the dash to open/close this config. The issues are I don't know if I can trust the longevity of these electro-mechanical butterfly flaps and also it will make the car run lean as there will be less back pressure (perhaps this can be dynamically mapped with some enrichment "flag" when the bypass switch is activated).

My design/thinking is the advtanges of this design are:

1. That splitting the exhaust into 2 flows internally will halve the exhaust gas speed giving more time for waves to bounce out.
2. Two paths (roughly a mirror image of each other) might help cancel out noise waves.
3. There will be a lot of perforated pipework (much more than any usual straight though box).
4. Box ends will be resealable, perhaps double skinned as the gas will be striking the ends the most.
5. Bends in the box will be made from sectioned perforated pipe (probably).
6. All internal pipes to be wadded.



If you have some useful input/suggestions, please fire away....

Edited by Nev, 24 July 2015 - 06:22 AM.

[mbes2]

Given the cost of off the shelf units what your suspect build cost for this new system ?

 

 

[Nev]

Parts will be about £200 to £300 I reckon.

Edited by Nev, 24 July 2015 - 07:13 AM.