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#2721 FLD

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 08:25 AM

[color=rgb(0,128,0);]1/ Any idea roughly how many chops through 3" steel pipe a band would do before it got blunt?[/color]

Loads, it will depend on the blade but it should do plenty.  HSS blades don't like composite though and go blunk quite quickly.  Steel is fine though.
[color=rgb(0,128,0);]2/ How much are new bands please?[/color]

around 6-10 quid.
[color=rgb(0,128,0);]3/ How accurate is the mitre, can you measure it within 2 degrees reasonably easy?[/color]

That might take a little care.  Whilst there is a graduation scale on mine I'd want to be checking to get that sort of accuracy.  Another thing to watch for that would be the pressure you put on with the blade.  Too mcuh down pressure and the blade will bend over slightly and give a slanted cut.  The pressure is adjustable on a spring but best to be aware of it.
4[color=rgb(0,128,0);]/ Is the clamp big enough to cope with gripping 89mm tube?[/color]

I'd have to check.  That might be pushing it a bit.

 

 

Your welcome to come and try it out if you're ever passing.
 



#2722 vocky

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 08:53 AM

Where did my post go from earlier!?

 

I don't think you should grind off the welds on ally. (May be wrong, I'm not a weldist)

you should sand or file alloy, never ever grind it - the grinding disc could explode  :mellow:



#2723 Nev

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 09:00 AM

Where did my post go from earlier!?   I don't think you should grind off the welds on ally. (May be wrong, I'm not a weldist)

you should sand or file alloy, never ever grind it - the grinding disc could explode  :mellow:

I ground it on a 1" thick grinding wheel (not a disc) so it was totaly safe :)

#2724 jim61

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 09:32 AM

Where did my post go from earlier!?   I don't think you should grind off the welds on ally. (May be wrong, I'm not a weldist)

you should sand or file alloy, never ever grind it - the grinding disc could explode  :mellow:
Definitely not reccomended - you can get away with it for ages and the it goes tits very quickly ! Angle grinder with a flap disc is slower but a lot safer ( from personal experience sadly )

Edited by Jimbob61, 27 July 2015 - 09:37 AM.


#2725 stevey.d

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 06:02 PM

Where did my post go from earlier!?   I don't think you should grind off the welds on ally. (May be wrong, I'm not a weldist)

you should sand or file alloy, never ever grind it - the grinding disc could explode  :mellow:
I ground it on a 1" thick grinding wheel (not a disc) so it was totaly safe :)
Use a bar of soap on the wheel, stops it loading up as quickly before you have to dress the wheel. Smells nice too :-)

#2726 Nev

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Posted 27 July 2015 - 06:32 PM

Where did my post go from earlier!?   I don't think you should grind off the welds on ally. (May be wrong, I'm not a weldist)

you should sand or file alloy, never ever grind it - the grinding disc could explode  :mellow:

I ground it on a 1" thick grinding wheel (not a disc) so it was totaly safe :)

Use a bar of soap on the wheel, stops it loading up as quickly before you have to dress the wheel. Smells nice too :-)

Nice tip, I'll try it next time.

#2727 Nev

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Posted 29 July 2015 - 05:12 AM

Went out for a blast yesterday to test the breather tank. All seems good and the tank didn't implode due to poor welding skillz ;)

#2728 A-F_20

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Posted 29 July 2015 - 05:56 AM

You used a 1" thick grinding wheel - wow that makes it worse! Never use a grinding wheel on aluminium, it's extremely dangerous - they used to make us watch videos at work of eye operations on people that had grinding wheels explode in their face. It's basic engineering stuff - don't be so arrogant to think you no better than experienced people.

#2729 stevey.d

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Posted 29 July 2015 - 06:33 AM

You used a 1" thick grinding wheel - wow that makes it worse! Never use a grinding wheel on aluminium, it's extremely dangerous - they used to make us watch videos at work of eye operations on people that had grinding wheels explode in their face. It's basic engineering stuff - don't be so arrogant to think you no better than experienced people.

Videos? Eye operations ? Didn't they wear safety glasses back then. Bad practice that.

#2730 Nev

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Posted 29 July 2015 - 07:47 AM

You used a 1" thick grinding wheel - wow that makes it worse! Never use a grinding wheel on aluminium, it's extremely dangerous - they used to make us watch videos at work of eye operations on people that had grinding wheels explode in their face. It's basic engineering stuff - don't be so arrogant to think you no better than experienced people.

I just read up on this, I didn't realise there was a danger from the aluminium effectively becoming a thermite bomb (if mixed with ferrous powder too).

#2731 A-F_20

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Posted 29 July 2015 - 09:10 AM

Eye injury is usually as a result of not wearing the correct safety goggles - grade 2 safety goggles should be worn when grinding, in other words full goggles or a visor, not glasses.

 

I'll leave you to carry on putting 'soap' on your grinding wheels - because that's a really great idea!

 

Best not to dish out advice on using dangerous equipment if you don't really know what you're talking about.  thumbsdown

 

Anyway back on with the thread - good work Nev always an interesting read.

 

 

visor

You used a 1" thick grinding wheel - wow that makes it worse! Never use a grinding wheel on aluminium, it's extremely dangerous - they used to make us watch videos at work of eye operations on people that had grinding wheels explode in their face. It's basic engineering stuff - don't be so arrogant to think you no better than experienced people.

Videos? Eye operations ? Didn't they wear safety glasses back then. Bad practice that.

 

 



#2732 siztenboots

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Posted 29 July 2015 - 09:22 AM

[color=rgb(0,128,0);]1/ Any idea roughly how many chops through 3" steel pipe a band would do before it got blunt?[/color]

Loads, it will depend on the blade but it should do plenty.  HSS blades don't like composite though and go blunk quite quickly.  Steel is fine though.
 

 

my favourite word for today is " blunk "

 

" The server has crashed.

 

/tmp is full so it will go blunk quite quickly."



#2733 FLD

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Posted 29 July 2015 - 09:31 AM

:lol:  :rolleyes:



#2734 stevey.d

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Posted 29 July 2015 - 11:25 AM

Yes Nev great thread. Won't pollute it after this. I just offered a tip that i have used in my job and used by us in work. Perhaps I shouldn't offer advice to unskilled people. Misuse of equipment and inexperienced users are to blame for most failures, random stuff happens but not often. Please use common sense.

Eye injury is usually as a result of not wearing the correct safety goggles - grade 2 safety goggles should be worn when grinding, in other words full goggles or a visor, not glasses.   I'll leave you to carry on putting 'soap' on your grinding wheels - because that's a really great idea!   Best not to dish out advice on using dangerous equipment if you don't really know what you're talking about.  thumbsdown   Anyway back on with the thread - good work Nev always an interesting read.    

visor

You used a 1" thick grinding wheel - wow that makes it worse! Never use a grinding wheel on aluminium, it's extremely dangerous - they used to make us watch videos at work of eye operations on people that had grinding wheels explode in their face. It's basic engineering stuff - don't be so arrogant to think you no better than experienced people.

Videos? Eye operations ? Didn't they wear safety glasses back then. Bad practice that.  
 


#2735 Nev

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Posted 10 August 2015 - 08:08 PM

Sheesh, car went airborn on all 4 corners today just driving over a bridge. The union of tarmac just prior to the bridge join itself had sunken and must have had a ramp before the bridge part started that even Evil Kineval would have liked. Honestly, it's like driving a rubble rally stage on what should be finely tarmaced roads these days :(


Edited by Nev, 10 August 2015 - 08:09 PM.


#2736 smiley

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Posted 10 August 2015 - 08:50 PM

Sheesh, car went airborn on all 4 corners today just driving over a bridge.

 

You need to get yourself a gopro Nev.

We are missing out on all the cool stuf here.

 



#2737 mbes2

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Posted 12 August 2015 - 12:41 PM

Good job your wing wasn't upside down...  rallly



#2738 Nev

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Posted 20 August 2015 - 04:26 PM

Welding is not easy, however I have been persevering and I am getting close to being able to join 2 round steel pipes together now. Round pipes are not easy, as your wrist has to constantly articulate and also, doing more than a 90 degree arc is impossible (for me anyway), so lots of start/stoping in mid weld. I need to splash out on a decent chop or band saw, not sure which at the moment. Once I get this I will be in the position to mitre the necessary sections off the raw pipes to actually construct what (I hope!) will be Nippers 5th and FINAL exhaust. Now that know how hard welding is however, I am a bit daunted by my complex exhaust box design.... UG.

Edited by Nev, 20 August 2015 - 04:29 PM.


#2739 stu8v

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Posted 20 August 2015 - 04:36 PM

I quite like the welding part.

#2740 Nev

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Posted 24 August 2015 - 10:26 AM

Bought some metal pipework and joiner off eBay today. Before I go all out and design/build an entire new exhaust, I thought T'd try and make my own "dB killer" pipe. These things can be bought off eBay, but are so restrictive that it would be highly dangerous in Nipper as the ECU and map don't accommodate for extra (very considerable at a guess) exhaust back pressure they create. The design I have in my mind will be roughly 3 times larger surface area than an eBay one and thus flow somewhat better. It will look a bit bizzar as it will project rearward from the clam by 1/2 metre and it will likely need extra support from the wing. I am hoping it might possibly reduce static noise to below the magic 105 dB in order to get me on a few tracks, even if it doesn't I should get a feel for what effect it does actually make (using a pre/post sound metre test), this will help with the final exhaust design. We shall see...

Edited by Nev, 24 August 2015 - 10:31 AM.





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