4722 replies to this topic

[Nev]

Most of it is probably the soot you're kicking out?
The vx also very susceptible to a low pressure area there, hence it all sticks to rear clam.

 

Mine gets sooty from about 6000 RPM so I think that only partially explains it as. I just think for some reason mine picks up a lot of junk off the road, partly due to lack of floorpan, but also because of the modified and projecting rear 3/4 sections and perhaps the wing. Just on Sunday when we went out someone was complaining about having to hang back behind me just to get visibility. Even the photographer who did the last magazine shoot mentioned it as he followed just at only 30 MPH during a dry summer day.

 

It makes me wonder if I could actually make a functioning diffuser. Id need to buy a really good quality magnhelic gauge to see where all the low pressure zones are and it would take a lot of finger in the air perseverence.

Edited by Nev, 19 March 2016 - 07:55 AM.

[mbes2]

Do it do it !! It's what it's missing

[Nev]

Finally got round to installing the new airbox today. I had to take the clam off in order to route the pipework from the boot to the near side ear. I also took the opportunity to adjust my alternator, as the aux. belt has been squeeling on high electrical demand for the last 6 months. It took me 7.5 hours total on top of the 5 hours or so building the box, quite a lot of time for a marginal change in the car. Oh well, at least inlet temps will be even lower and hopefully I can drive 9000 miles betweeen air filter changes (that 3 times more than before!).

 

One of the angles of my pipework wasn't as expected, so my 90 degree bend in the boot bulkead needs to be replaced for a 45 degree bend (no on order) which I can do in a couple of days when it arrives in the post.

 

Whilst working on the car I noticed that my front number plate has caved in and snapped at the outside edge where the last couple of inches wern't supported. I expect this was something to do with a full power run on last Sunday's "Welsh Hills Dawn Raid"

 

Also whilst taking the wing off I noticed that there is now a bit of play (about 2 mm) in the lateral location of the pylons. Both pylons are connected to vertical sturdy steel stantions that mount through the top of the clam to the base of the boot. I will have to take good look at this and beef them up a bit again, as I certainly dont want the wing vibrating and causing fatigue and snapping off, the consequences would be aweful for me or the person behind.

 

Off for a test run tonight once the traffic dies down. Thanks again to Matt (FLD) for making this mod possible.

Edited by Nev, 22 March 2016 - 05:53 PM.

[Nev]

Smelt a whiff of oil last time I went out so had a poke round the engine bay. What a surprise: yet another silicone breather pipe had split, bloody useless things. Anyway fixed that and also improved my bulkhead pannel. Stepped out of the garage to test drive and it's raining

[Nev]

I wanted to see how much my engine was moving about, so took a little video. The camera was mounted on the bootline pointing at 45 degrees towards the cabin bulkhead (ie towards the drivers seat).

 

It shows just how much it moves about, rocking up and backwards around 1 CM I reckon. Thats with the yellow stronger front + rear engine mounts. I was only pulling to about 6000 RPM on the low power map, so using about 300 ft/lb of torque.

 

https://youtu.be/z7ipC031GxI

 

 

 

Edited by Nev, 28 March 2016 - 01:47 PM.

[Chris P Duck]

is complaining that my her knickers smell of oil and fumes due to contamination from my garage/driving clothes.

My/her knickers? Do you share?

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Have you tried the black inserts nev I run them but you do get a lot off vibration from them

[Nev]

Have you tried the black inserts nev I run them but you do get a lot off vibration from them

 

Do you mean some sort of black inserts for the front + rear engine mounts. If so, I'm not sure where you buy them or how hard/stiff they are. Are they stiffer than the yellow Courtenay ones?

[Mopeytitan]

You could always try solid mounts?...

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

http://www.suspensio...ctc5a7vnfrqkvb6

 

heres a link nev

[Nev]

http://www.suspensio...ctc5a7vnfrqkvb6

 

heres a link nev

 

Thanks, their implication is that the black ones are stiffer, but by how much.

 

I have pondered about extracting my existing yellow ones out and squeezing in some urethane (or similar) into the voids to stiffen them up. I haven't done it so far, as I am quite keen to keep the car viable on bumpy roads. Maybe I should.  

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

This compound can be up to 80% more resistant to load than standard rubber and 25% stiffer than our purple performance material.  

 

[The Batman]

how about using the vibratechnics race mounts?

[Nev]

how about using the vibratechnics race mounts?

 

Cos they are hundreds of pounds, when I can make my own which will be just as good for £6. I've already ordered a tube of PU from eBay. It's such an easy thing to do as well. I only want a little bit less engine movement as it is a good thing to some extent.

 

Also with home made ones I can control the amount of extra stiffness to how I want it, by slowly adding PU material to the existing front and back mounts and observing the change in engine motion.

 

My objective is to try and reduce twisting strain on the exhaust, turbo and manifold.

 

 

 

 

Edited by Nev, 30 March 2016 - 05:42 AM.

[Nev]

My 2 new ball joints that I put in a week ago have made an appreciable improvement to handling. It's hard to describe, other than it feels safer to go faster.

 

I've got 6 more on order, and will tackle them in pairs as they are quite a time consuming job. Am hoping that they will help reduce Nippers tramlining which is worrysome at times.

 

Edited by Nev, 30 March 2016 - 06:05 AM.

[oakmere]

how about using the vibratechnics race mounts?

  Cos they are hundreds of pounds, when I can make my own which will be just as good for £6. I've already ordered a tube of PU from eBay. It's such an easy thing to do as well. I only want a little bit less engine movement as it is a good thing to some extent.   Also with home made ones I can control the amount of extra stiffness to how I want it, by slowly adding PU material to the existing front and back mounts and observing the change in engine motion.   My objective is to try and reduce twisting strain on the exhaust, turbo and manifold.        

I think adding PU to the voids if you have the yellow inserts will make little or no difference. The inserts have pertrusions that fit into the voids from memory. I have PU filled mounts as the yellow inserts became annoying when I fitted cams. I don't like how the inserts work as they fill the void between chassis mount and engine mount so I think they transmit more vibration than is necessary. I am going to try an updated Vibra technics mount next.

[Nev]

 

 

how about using the vibratechnics race mounts?

  Cos they are hundreds of pounds, when I can make my own which will be just as good for £6. I've already ordered a tube of PU from eBay. It's such an easy thing to do as well. I only want a little bit less engine movement as it is a good thing to some extent.   Also with home made ones I can control the amount of extra stiffness to how I want it, by slowly adding PU material to the existing front and back mounts and observing the change in engine motion.   My objective is to try and reduce twisting strain on the exhaust, turbo and manifold.        

I think adding PU to the voids if you have the yellow inserts will make little or no difference. The inserts have pertrusions that fit into the voids from memory. I have PU filled mounts as the yellow inserts became annoying when I fitted cams. I don't like how the inserts work as they fill the void between chassis mount and engine mount so I think they transmit more vibration than is necessary. I am going to try an updated Vibra technics mount next.

 

 

Thanks for the info, however can you explain a bit more why you think adding PU into the voids of the yellow mounts won't work, as I don't fully understand what you've written. Thanks.

 

Edited by Nev, 30 March 2016 - 10:57 AM.

[oakmere]

The original mount is rubber with voids https://www.google.c...VzXUTb6wZk5ahM: The inserts fill the voids: https://www.google.c...wlw8J4p8Ad902M: So there are no voids to fill.

Edited by oakmere, 30 March 2016 - 08:30 PM.

[Nev]

The original mount is rubber with voids https://www.google.c...VzXUTb6wZk5ahM: The inserts fill the voids: https://www.google.c...wlw8J4p8Ad902M: So there are no voids to fill.

 

All that gap between the V shaped yellow ribs can be filled, would make it a lot stiffer.

[Zoobeef]

I would remove the yellow ones and sell them on then tape up one sid eof the mount. Fill the other and let it set.