4722 replies to this topic

[Nev]

std are fine

Crap selector mech but good strong unit

I managed to kill some clutches on the M32 box but other than that loved it - find the F23 a bit tractor v's the M32 but just my choice

DG


Nev change it, they can be fine but tend to not like been fully depressed after been in use and the labour to change after is not worth it imo 10k is still quite a bit and you have already had 1 clutch change without it been done

I did have a new slave bearing put in only 10k miles ago when I had the Helix clutch put in, so it should bloody well still work. Also, after the debacle with Zachs F23, I have a feeling I might need to take the gearbox off again anyway... we shall see.

Whats the issues with them - do they just start weaping once the box is taken off and put back on ?

Who has ACTUALLY had one fail just because the box was taken off and put back on ?

Edited by Nev, 23 February 2011 - 05:01 PM.

[zebwach]

My gearbox has been on and off many times for the fitment of many clutches. This is certainly not the issue with mine. More shall be know by the end of the weekend hopefully about the cause of failure. Zach

[Nev]

My full cam specs are on my metrics page.

They look worryingly race oriented, though I don't have the timing/overlap figures yet. I am concerned about reversion at low to midish revs... any comments anyone ?

I guess I will know soon enough !

Nev.

[steveboyslim]

My full cam specs are on my metrics page.

They look worryingly race oriented, though I don't have the timing/overlap figures yet. I am concerned about reversion at low to midish revs... any comments anyone ?

I guess I will know soon enough !

Nev.

Nev,

The cam specification were what was reccommended by the main man at Piper who designs cams for a living and works closly with companies like Mountune.
If you yhink your are a bit wild just look at some of the others available from other cam shaft suppliers.

Steve

PS I never got the timing/overlap figures as I tend to work from lift at TDC.

Edited by steveboyslim, 23 February 2011 - 08:23 PM.

[Nev]

Okies, I am sure they know a hell of a lot more about it all than me. I am hoping to do the engine drop in tomorrow if my pipe parts arrive. It will be a dawn of a new chapter. In fact, I can't really see it being more than approx 8 hours work to get it all put back to togther. I'll intend to ring my exhaust fabrication place up tomorrow to try and see if they have a trailer to get Nipper over to them sometime soonish.

[Duncan VXR]

I have actually seen one fail that had done 5k , looked and felt fine working ok before. Box back off again :-( heard of others failing also, for the cost involved its a no brainer compared to the total cost of clutch change imo

[siztenboots]

My full cam specs are on my metrics page.

They look worryingly race oriented, though I don't have the timing/overlap figures yet. I am concerned about reversion at low to midish revs... any comments anyone ?

I guess I will know soon enough !

Nev.

do you have verniers on them, you could dial them in , although given everything else is bespoke you will be doing all your own development. did you keep the intake valve close timing same as original , ie. same dynamic compression ratio? If not, them that would something to play with, shift the centreline to suit.

Personally I would run it on standard cams for a bit, until everything else is proven.

[Judderman]

So how long left for Nipper then?

[Nev]

Nope, I didnt put verniers on them (cheapskateing ATM), but if we have probs with mapping it and getting poor low rev torque, I might.

As for running standard cams for running the engine in, thats not such a good idea as it's now got solid lifters that would have a 3 mm gap between the cam lobes and lifters !

I have no idea what the cam profile is going to do to be honest, as I only have a basic undersanding of their dynamics. I am relying on Piper knowing alot more than me.

Anyway, the engine is close to going in (maybe tomorrow) if I can get the last of my driveshaft seals in without bending it. Full update here.

Nev.

Edited by Nev, 24 February 2011 - 06:50 PM.

[Vespa]

Nope, I didnt put verniers on them (cheapskateing ATM), but if we have probs with mapping it and getting poor low rev torque, I might.

As for running standard cams for running the engine in, thats not such a good idea as it's now got solid lifters that would have a 3 mm gap between the cam lobes and lifters !

I have no idea what the cam profile is going to do to be honest, as I only have a basic undersanding of their dynamics. I am relying on Piper knowing alot more than me.

Anyway, the engine is close to going in (maybe tomorrow) if I can get the last of my driveshaft seals in without bending it. Full update here.

Nev.

those driveshaft seals are a bit of a pain arent they and not so cheap either i went to a local engineering workshop and got a bit of solid tubing that slid over it perfectly. i tried every socket i owned but no luck there either. hope the next one goes better

[cnrandall]

I'm still on stock cams and hydraulic lifters with no probs now running up to 7800rpm. Would be interested in doing some back to backs with bigger cams but it's a bit of a struggle to justify when the stock ones are producing such great reliable power.

[steveboyslim]

Nope, I didnt put verniers on them (cheapskateing ATM), but if we have probs with mapping it and getting poor low rev torque, I might.

As for running standard cams for running the engine in, thats not such a good idea as it's now got solid lifters that would have a 3 mm gap between the cam lobes and lifters !

I have no idea what the cam profile is going to do to be honest, as I only have a basic undersanding of their dynamics. I am relying on Piper knowing alot more than me.

Anyway, the engine is close to going in (maybe tomorrow) if I can get the last of my driveshaft seals in without bending it. Full update here.

Nev.

The camshafts have been ground around the standard timming figures so verniers are not needed.

Steve

[steveboyslim]

Nope, I didnt put verniers on them (cheapskateing ATM), but if we have probs with mapping it and getting poor low rev torque, I might.

As for running standard cams for running the engine in, thats not such a good idea as it's now got solid lifters that would have a 3 mm gap between the cam lobes and lifters !

I have no idea what the cam profile is going to do to be honest, as I only have a basic undersanding of their dynamics. I am relying on Piper knowing alot more than me.

Anyway, the engine is close to going in (maybe tomorrow) if I can get the last of my driveshaft seals in without bending it. Full update here.

Nev.

those driveshaft seals are a bit of a pain arent they and not so cheap either i went to a local engineering workshop and got a bit of solid tubing that slid over it perfectly. i tried every socket i owned but no luck there either. hope the next one goes better

Quality driveshafts oil seals are available at very reasonable money, just ask Nev.
I use a tyre lever to remove them and a small piece of scafold tube to install them.

Steve

Edited by steveboyslim, 24 February 2011 - 09:29 PM.

[Nev]

Thanks for the info guys. I actually used a purpose made piece of round wood that I cut to size specifically for the task, but the seal just didn't seem to want to go in straight. I got angry after 10 mins and thats when it went wrong ! I am heating the gearbox up this time and have the seal in the freezer, hopefully this will be enough of a temp differential to do the trick this time. Alex did you not succeed in changing you seal in the end then ? Chris: If you were to swap to use my cams in your engine I think they would almost certainly make your valves foul the piston crowns due to excessive lift. You'd have to swap to my entire head which is a lot more hassle as opening the cam cover is wickedly hard on a VXT with the clam on . Klassen sells some cams with similar lift to mine and they are hydraulic profile as well, though he won't revleal their duration etc etc owing to not wanting them to be copy-catted.

Edited by Nev, 25 February 2011 - 09:43 AM.

[cnrandall]

This is one of the reasons I've stuck with the stock cams, means I can stick with the stock head, stock followers, stock pistons etc etc. I'm yet to see an actual back to back with only a cam change to prove any of the cams out there. Most people seem to do big head, big turbo, cams etc at the same time meaning it's impossible to tell where the gains are coming from. If I'm making 480bhp on a GT3071R then I'm pretty damn near the limit of that turbo whatever way you look at it.

[Duncan VXR]

Done a few now Nev and getting in is the easier bit in my experiance. You may find the wood is obsorbing the impact of hammer? Steel is the way forward Also make sure the old blue stuff is removed as it is a tight fit. Not sure heating / freezing is going to make any difference tbh Hope you have not killed the new seal sometimes walking away for an hr works for me when things are not going to plan DG

[Zoobeef]

As above, a piece of metal tube or a socket that just sits on the metal of the seal is the way forward. Its a pain to get seal started you usually chase it round for about 10 mins then it jumps in on one aimed shot haha

[cnrandall]

Do you guys want me to spin up some ally press tools on my lathe? Would be a simple job and make fitting the seals a damn sight easier for the DIY guys...

[Vespa]

Yeah I got it in ok once I had the correct sized tubing to use as a punch. I even went to halfords to see if I could get a correct sized socket, the problem was the material thickness was too big and I couldn't get it in the gearbox aperture. the tap tap tap approach didn't work so had to use the lump hammer and it slides in no trouble

[Duncan VXR]

Do you guys want me to spin up some ally press tools on my lathe? Would be a simple job and make fitting the seals a damn sight easier for the DIY guys...

Everytime I change them Chris I think right get in the machine shop and knock something up - and what do I do........that's right nothing and end up at square 1 again lol

If you get bored and make some feel free to put my name on one - although its taken me 4 years of working on vx's to do 3 sets lol

DG