4722 replies to this topic

[Nev]

Hoorah, I got the last seal onto the gearbox using a 54mm alu boost pipe that I had lieing around. It went in easily with this pressed against the outside edge of the seal.

Also, I have now dropped the engine in - twice !! And it has to go back in again after yet another heat shield is made up.

Chris, making a couple of tools would be usefull .Org to have as a shareable resouce - its a nasty bitch job without something suitable. I can measure up the exact diameter/size if you like.

Edited by Nev, 25 February 2011 - 04:13 PM.

[VXT Tim]

Great job!

Edited by VXT Tim, 25 February 2011 - 04:13 PM.

[Nev]

Thanks Tim. Im pretty tired after a full day of spannering. Full time mechanics must be quite fit people. It's a genuine relief to have it it. All the connecting up of wires and pipes will seem like a walk in the park now. I've updated the blog a bit.

[VXT Tim]

Thanks Tim.

Im pretty tired after a full day of spannering. Full time mechanics must be quite fit people.

It's a genuine relief to have it it. All the connecting up of wires and pipes will seem like a walk in the park now.

I've updated the blog a bit.

They don't look that fit

Will have a read now.


Can you put a timescale on the first key turn, then map, the first time you can give it some stick?

That's going to be really nerve racking.

I have a lot of respect for you doing this, it's quite easy to sit and say, i'm going to do this and do that but when you actually get down to it you have a lot of money sat in that engine bay that could (fingers crossed it won't) go up in smoke literally.

[Nev]

Indeed Tim, it is nerve wracking. I have put so much thought and TLC into it and it may yet not even run properly for some reason. I am dreading having to take the engine out again if for some reason it needs to come out. So many parts are bespoke now, and many aspects of the engine management will need to change, like different MAF, different MAP, different TB, differnt bore pipes, different spark plugs, different CR, different LSD, etc etc etc. I think it may be ready to take off for it's new down pipe and wastegate pipe in approx 1 or 2 weeks. Then I will need to try and start it. Assuming it works, I then need to plod around for approx 750 miles to run the engine in (maybe 4 weeks?). Lastly I will get it mapped (maybe 2 weeks?). So in total it might be ready in 2 months if nothing dramatic goes wrong like losing my oil pressure and seizing it !

Edited by Nev, 25 February 2011 - 11:03 PM.

[siztenboots]

vacuum store box relocate, is its solenoid that used to control the K04 recirc valve redundant now?

[Nev]

Part of the vacuum box's function is redundant now (I think). One pipe (the slightly fatter one) that used to lead off it all the way round the side of the engine to the past the cambelt side of the engine to the recirc valve. I have blocked this pipe off at the vacuum box. The functionality of the reric valve will now be taken up by my Bailey bypass valve which I have yet to install. I don't think the vacuum box can be eliminated as it passes vacuum to the front of the car to operate the hydraulics. There is also a electrical connector from the loom that affects some sort of solonoid on it. I am not sure what this does. Any ideas ?

Edited by Nev, 26 February 2011 - 08:53 AM.

[siztenboots]

Part of the vacuum box's function is redundant now (I think). One pipe (the slightly fatter one) that used to lead off it all the way round the side of the engine to the past the cambelt side of the engine to the recirc valve. I have blocked this pipe off at the vacuum box. The functionality of the reric valve will now be taken up by my Bailey bypass valve which I have yet to install.

I don't think the vacuum box can be eliminated as it passes vacuum to the front of the car to operate the hydraulics. There is also a electrical connector from the loom that affects some sort of solonoid on it. I am not sure what this does. Any ideas ?

brake servo vacuum comes directly off the intake manifold, via a one-way valve, not this small plastic box.

[Nev]

Yup, thanks Steve, I'm aware of that pipe (I just connected it an hour ago), it's the fat one that leads from the neck of the top of the inlet manifold, to a pipe that eventually runs down the nearside of the car, along the chassis passenger side to appear somewhere in the front bonnet presumably. I thought putting all the cable and things togther was going to be easy, but it isn't, I have a couple of pipes I dont know how to orientate ATM. In particular the electric water pump which is located in the void between the gearbox/bulkhead/under water resevoir tank is on twisted metal bracket with 2 bolt holes. I cannot for the life of me work out how/where this bracket is mounted... If someone could take some clear pics and email me that would be great. I am getting a bit overwhelmed with working on the car so much in the last week

Edited by Nev, 26 February 2011 - 11:17 AM.

[siztenboots]

Yup, thanks Steve, I'm aware of that pipe (I just connected it an hour ago), it's the fat one that leads from the neck of the top of the inlet manifold, to a pipe that eventually runs down the nearside of the car, along the chassis passenger side to appear somewhere in the front bonnet presumably.

I thought putting all the cable and things togther was going to be easy, but it isn't, I have a couple of pipes I dont know how to orientate ATM. In particular the electric water pump which is located in the void between the gearbox/bulkhead/under water resevoir tank is on twisted metal bracket with 2 bolt holes. I cannot for the life of me work out how/where this bracket is mounted... If someone could take some clear pics and email me that would be great.

I am getting a bit overwhelmed with working on the car so much in the last week

i'll just upload some pics.

[siztenboots]

twisted bracket that I think bolts to gearbox , I might have just found a missing bolt on mine

[Nev]

Thanks Steve, that gives me a big clue. I can just see the twist of the brack, so at least I know roughly how it should align now. Thanks a lot. N + N.

[Nev]

After a few days of illness I have started doing some more jobs on the car. However, one of them will require an 'emergency procedure' to access the turbo. Details here.

Other than this things are progressing slowly but surely.

[nicollow]

After a few days of illness I have started doing some more jobs on the car. However, one of them will require an 'emergency procedure' to access the turbo. Details here.

Other than this things are progressing slowly but surely.

Holy moly fella, thats going to be some powertrain when its finished. Amazing work!

Cutting a hole in the bulkhead though, will that not jeopardise its structural rigidity?

[Nev]

No, the panel has nothing to do with structure, it just acts as a noise + smell insulator. I've posted a pic of it to startle you

[Nev]

Gosh, I've got the last 2 medium sized jobs out of the way this evening, Nipper is really getting close to being finished. Progress report here.

I need to find a car with a tow bar and a trailer in the Bristol(ish) area to take him off to the exhaust welders soon - can anyone help me pls ?

N + N.

[VXR 43]

It's looking great Nev! Can't wait to see the results. Do you think you will have any issues with heat getting into the cabin with the access panel cut? Or are you going to block it off with a temporary cover?

[Nev]

It's looking great Nev! Can't wait to see the results.

Do you think you will have any issues with heat getting into the cabin with the access panel cut? Or are you going to block it off with a temporary cover?

Thanks for the positive comments

I already have an aluminum panel made up to block the access panel. If this isn't enough I will make another mirror image one and bolt that on the other side of the bulkhead with some insualation material between the 2 panels. The turbo itself also has a mini heat shield I have made around it as well, so I am fairly confident that localised radiant heat will be under control. All pipes are carefully shielded too.

I think if I have heat issues at all, it will be a more general problem with the whole engine bay getting too hot after a prolonged period of WOT. I may need to feed air from the nearside ear via a corrugated pipe to point at the turbo to help move the air over the turbo/manifold area. My new airbox position has yeilded lots of space in the left ear for this purpose and to allow fitment of a big oil cooler if necessary.

N + N.

[VXT Tim]

Did you consider a fast back approach Nev? This would solve a number of the issues you have encountered. Cooler, improved aero, room for intake pipe etc.

[Nev]

I have considered it a bit Tim, but I really don't want to complicate (and slow down) matters at the moment by modifying my bodywork as well. The whole project may yet be a dud, so don't want to comit to more expense till I've proven what I have already done will work. I whole-heatedly agree that the car would benefit from a "fastback" as a standard VXT has very poor aerodynamics. If the car runs well with my changes and I feel motivated enough to start another major project, I may consider a complete ground up aero + running gear change. If I were to do this my prime goals would be to: 1/ Fit an engine bay hood to smooth airflow. 2/ Possible rear wing. 3/ Proper investigation into how to reduce lift at the front end. 4/ New/modified rear + front clam to accomodate wider wheels (something like 245 front and 315 rear) to get my power down. Obviously this would be very expensive, so I doubt I will do all this. Pt 3 above is what I would consider the most important point. Bear in mind my car is principly a road car so extreme speed is not really my objective. If I were inclined to race or track more then the aero side of things would be more important I guess as average speeds would be far greater.

Edited by Nev, 08 March 2011 - 10:21 AM.