4722 replies to this topic

[Nev]

If you fitting 3.5" pipe just have one single 3.5" pipe

 

The exit stub on the silencer will be 3.5", but if I were to extend it out with 3.5" pipe, it would only have about 3mm of clearance of the clam, so any sideways movement will end up melting my clam (more).

 

At the moment I hope to use a 3.5" single to 3" twin Y-adaptor as the tail pipe (so the narrower 3" pipes will have greater clam clearance). But if this adds noise I can swap it with a "track only" single 3.5" pipe and insulate the clam with something.

Edited by Nev, 04 December 2016 - 08:08 PM.

[The Batman]

Why not just cut the bodywork I had 2 x 1.75" y piece to 2.25" tailpipes and I knocked 3-4db off

[CocoPops]

Why not just cut the bodywork I had 2 x 1.75" y piece to 2.25" tailpipes and I knocked 3-4db off

Gotta keep clam standard.... Besides, not everyone has your Dremel prowess Joe

[The Batman]

He doesn't even clean it lol so doesn't matter really

[siztenboots]

unusual to see block fail, 578bhp at 7500, zleh

 

[stu8v]

http://www.tooled-up...CFUa6GwodS-IEQQ

[Nev]

Jeeeeezeus, that block failure was exciting !

 

How could it have split entirely across ALL of it ??

Edited by Nev, 04 December 2016 - 10:32 PM.

[Dan r]

 

 

You need to use a slow speed for drilling stainless. Lots of cutting compound and don't let the drill bit skid.

  Thanks.  

I've been doing lots with the drill press of late and only in the last session did I use cutting compound for the first time ever. I'll never go back to dry cutting/drilling!  

  What cutting compound do you guys use? Up to now I've just been squirting the drill hole + bits with WD40, which is probably not the best thing.  

http://www.toolstati...ting Oil/p56345 I use this stuff at the moment but normal wd40 works OK, I usually put some in a pot and apply to the drill bit with a brush as it wastes so much spraying it all the time and get a bit sick of breathing the stuff in if using it a lot. Its easy enough to sharpen drill bits on a grinder so shouldn't need to keep buying more of them. I've never seen a block fail like that, must have made a pretty big bag. Crazy!

[Mopeytitan]

It took me a while to figure out what I was looking at in that picture. At first I thought it was just a pic of the block lifted off.

[Arno]

The exit stub on the silencer will be 3.5", but if I were to extend it out with 3.5" pipe, it would only have about 3mm of clearance of the clam, so any sideways movement will end up melting my clam (more).

 

 

At the moment I hope to use a 3.5" single to 3" twin Y-adaptor as the tail pipe (so the narrower 3" pipes will have greater clam clearance). But if this adds noise I can swap it with a "track only" single 3.5" pipe and insulate the clam with something.

 

 

Your 3.5 inch pipe has a surface area of 9.6211275016187 in²

 

A split into 2x 2.5" end pipes would be sufficient as they are 2* 4.9087385212341 in² = 9.8174770424682 in²

 

Simple rolled ends gives it a nice clean external look and should be plenty space in the exhaust opening in the clam.

 

You might even consider bringing 2 separate 2.5" pipes out from the silencer to the exit and not a single 3.5" at all.

 

Oh.. and don't try to TIG without Argon.. It doesn't just mess up your welds and makes them horribly porous and oxidised (your 'stainless' is now not that anymore in these welds..), it messes up your tungsten electrode completely too... Just don't.. Ever..

 

Bye, Arno.

[Nev]

Hooray, I have gas now, and I've remembered that I have a box of emergency HSS drill bits somewhere that my dad gave me ages ago. So I'm off into the freezer (garage) for another stint now...

 

Edited by Nev, 05 December 2016 - 12:34 PM.

[siztenboots]

actually I think that crank is zlet one as it has the drive gear on piston 3 big end for the balance shafts cast in, unless they did a crank swap with the forged internals?

[Exmantaa]

Also these don't look as LEH pistons

[Nev]

actually I think that crank is zlet one as it has the drive gear on piston 3 big end for the balance shafts cast in, unless they did a crank swap with the forged internals?

 

Who's car is that engine from ?

[The Batman]

Was on facebook

[Nev]

More progress and some lovely success today: https://sites.google...gn/05-build-log

 

98 dB at idle now, which is some 6 dB quieter than my old exhaust silencer, so about twice as quiet.

 

My next dilema is how to weld this rod to the silencer carcass without horrendous warping and twisting... any ideas? I have two ATM:

  1/ Simply weld the bar as it sits on the silencer now.

  2/ Initially weld the bar to a long strip of 40mm wide plate (1.5mm thickness) whilst clamping the bar in a vice to stop warping. Then weld the plate to the silencer carcass. This has the added benefit of spreading the weld load onto the silencer as the plate will have 2 widely spread weld seams (40mm apart).

 

 

Edited by Nev, 06 December 2016 - 07:12 PM.

[CocoPops]

Does the rod need to go all the way across? Instead make some triangles at either end?

[Nev]

Hmm, good idea, I hadn't thought of that, though his walls are probably 1.5mm thick, mine are only 1.2mm so probably a fair bit weaker.

 

I can also only weld to the outside circumference of the silencer, as the box end is removable for repacking; but your idea is still doable.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Nev, 06 December 2016 - 07:35 PM.

[hairy]

Can you weld some local strengthening plates on?

[CocoPops]

If you're bolting the end caps... you could weld the hangers onto the end plate itself, which will then be bolted to silencer?