4722 replies to this topic

[Darcini]

So close now, well done Worse case scenario, I have a potential solution for any boot lid clearance issues.

[VXT Tim]

Great job Nev you get your poor wife lying on the floor looking for leaks?

[Nev]

Yep! She gets dragged in for the 2 person jobs Shes been very supportive and helpful and done quite a few spannering jobs including replacing a difficult to reach solonoid (on her back under the car), putting the wishbones back on & putting the drive shafts in. She has a Mazda MX5 herself and drives in a spirited way, but fears Nipper as he is a quite different experience. The first time she drove him, she was panicing every time he made boost and found the steering extremely twitchy. I am hopeing that the boost transition on this new setup will be more progressive, though it will also be far greater. We shall see. Darcini: Whats your boot lid solution? I'm intrigued.

Edited by Nev, 13 March 2011 - 08:46 AM.

[Nev]

Nipper is now loaded on a trailer ready for his new exhaust downpipe tomorrow morning... update here.

Edited by Nev, 17 March 2011 - 07:07 PM.

[Nev]

Poop, things didn't go to plan. Details on my blog.

[VXT Tim]

Bad news Nev, that's an odd issue to have

[Nev]

Well the car is back with it's new exhaust and I have tried to start it, however with problems.

If anyone can suggest what to do about:

1/ The noises from the TB please let me know...
2/ Whether the rev meter should be showing some revs when being turned over by the starter motor.


Thanks.

Edited by Nev, 25 March 2011 - 10:24 AM.

[Nev]

This is all solved now - just due to a lose earth cable on the ECU subframe, thankfully I found it in 10 minutes.

The engine now runs abeit rather roughly and I've posted a video of it on YouTube.

[leevx2.2]

Top Job Nev get it back together and run the beast in

[NickB787]

Coming alone nicely

[KurtVerbose]

The engine now runs abeit rather roughly and I've posted a video of it on YouTube.

Nev, will it always run like that with those camshafts, or should it get smoother with the remap?

Edit - just read the write up.

Edited by KurtVerbose, 25 March 2011 - 05:59 PM.

[Nev]

I've checked loads of things now and am beginning to run out of things it could be. I am slowly circling in to the conclusion that it's either poor timing, bad fuel or a blocked injector (which is unlikely as they were working fine in the old engine). Any other suggestions welcome...

Edited by Nev, 25 March 2011 - 06:42 PM.

[Nev]

Well, I have bitten the bullet and driven up and down the drive a few times. Everything seems ok. The clutch seemed very heavy, way beyond what I remember, not that it's a problem. My drive is on a slope, so it was more a case of rolling backwards down it and engageing 1st gear to get back up it. The engine picks up fast even though it's quite clearly not mapped, I have to be ever so carefull about not reving it much, ideally I'd like to stay below 2500 revs but it shoots up to 3000 so fast I couldn't feather the clutch in time. Also Im simply not used to the engine characteristics. Anyway, the torque to get up the drive was more than ample I think when the girlfriend comes back I'll put the rear clam back on with a few bolts, ready for a potter around my estate. Fingers crossed.

[VXT Tim]

Well done Nev, get some in car footage of your trundle around the estate. When is mapping happening?

Edited by VXT Tim, 26 March 2011 - 06:43 PM.

[chris_uk]

nice blog. my car idles like that with my new cams in, so it could just be your cams.

[Nev]

Chris, could you let me know what cams you put in your engine (ie full spec) and what sort of map do you have ? It's good to hear that it might be as simple as that. Cheers, Nev.

[Nev]

Tim: Mapping has yet to be fully arranged, I would like to be sure the car is running well with most of the bugs ironed out before I hand it over. I have quite a few small tasks to do like: 1: Extract + wrap the new downpipe. 2: Find out why the brake foot pedal is hard. 3: Adjust the handbrake. 4: Test the lights and silly things like windscreen washer. 5: Drive slowly (ie upto about 30 MPH) + carefully inspect all running gear + inspect engine. 6: Drive moderately (ie upto about 60 MPH) + repeat inspections. 7: Check for exhaust gas leaks. 8: Put the boot lid on. 9: Put the seats in. 10: Run the engine in a bit (in particular get some decent fresh fuel into the tank prior to any mapping). I think it's going to be at least 2 weeks before I do this lot and a bunch of other stuff I probably haven't thought of yet.

[RobNA]

Tim: Mapping has yet to be fully arranged, I would like to be sure the car is running well with most of the bugs ironed out before I hand it over.

I have quite a few small tasks to do like:

1: Extract + wrap the new downpipe.
2: Find out why the brake foot pedal is hard.
3: Adjust the handbrake.
4: Test the lights and silly things like windscreen washer.
5: Drive slowly (ie upto about 30 MPH) + carefully inspect all running gear + inspect engine.
6: Drive moderately (ie upto about 60 MPH) + repeat inspections.
7: Check for exhaust gas leaks.
8: Put the boot lid on.
9: Put the seats in.
10: Run the engine in a bit (in particular get some decent fresh fuel into the tank prior to any mapping).

I think it's going to be at least 2 weeks before I do this lot and a bunch of other stuff I probably haven't thought of yet.

I would move step 9 up the list to above 5 + 6

[Zoobeef]

I would hazard a guess that the rough running is possibly the cams and larger pipework on the old map? With regards to the brake pedal. Pull out the vacuum hose under the front bonnet and see if theres a vacuum getting to there from the engine

[Nev]

Yea, that would be a good check to make Mark. I did test the vacuum pipes by the inlet manifold and they were making a good vacuum, however it would be wise to check its making it down that fat pressure pipe to the master cylinder. Im off climbing today for the first time since I broke my back, ribs, arm and heel - Im quite excited !