4722 replies to this topic

[Nev]

Hmm, just played back the video from a 1st+2nd+3rd gear pull, the engine is still moving around more than I'd expect, it is slightly reduced, but not as much as I'd hoped.

 

The thing is I am only testing on the low torque map at the moment (only 10 PSI of boost), the rocking about on the high torque map (25 PSI) will be worse.

 

 

Edited by Nev, 20 April 2018 - 11:26 AM.

[Doctor Ed]

so add allowance for flex into the system rather than trying to stiffen it

[Nev]

so add allowance for flex into the system rather than trying to stiffen it

 

Easier said than done I'm afraid. I'd need a new exhaust manifold and new downpipe welded with V-bands this time instead of the awful 4 bolt T3 joint I currently have. Expensive and time consuming.

 

I've had enough of cars this morning, off for a spot of sun bathing and a snooze in the back garden.

Edited by Nev, 20 April 2018 - 12:02 PM.

[chris_uk]

Get a little bike shock and mount it between subframe and gearbox.

[Nev]

Here is the video with side + front + rear DIY PU mounts. I accelerated pretty hard on this occasion (as it was warm), in particular in 2nd gear which I took to 6000 RPM.

 

Edited by Nev, 20 April 2018 - 03:06 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

https://youtu.be/Yo78VnJlt0I If you want a reference on a stage 2 sc with booost leak

[Nev]

https://youtu.be/Yo78VnJlt0I If you want a reference on a stage 2 sc with booost leak

 

Thanks, useful. Yours must be moving back about 30 or 35mm by the looks of it.

 

Just been out in mine this evening for a further test (with less traffic). I noticed that gear changes into 1st + 2nd seem considerably slicker, an unexpected by-product of the side mount I think. The second thing I noticed is just how much fooking grip these cars have, it was about 22 degrees here and after spending the last 5 months driving at 0 degrees the difference is quite incredible, even on cheapo Federal RSR 595s.

 

I'm all fuelled up for a big trip into the hills tomorrow, probably gonna do 300 miles by 9AM.  

Edited by Nev, 20 April 2018 - 07:50 PM.

[Nev]

Went for a drive this morning and heard an (extra ) squealing from the rear when braking. So went into the garage to day, and swapped out the rear pads as one of them was just down to the metal. It must be one of the few jobs that is actually easy to do on the car, though it managed to seize my back.

 

As it was jacked up I inspected/tested a few things as I do, only to find that the O/S/F wheel bearing now has play in it, which explains my slightly wobbly steering wheel. This was a new item about 3 years ago, so it's died very quickly and will need to replace it ASAP as the play in it was at least a mm or so. So much for me thinking the car was almost bug free!

 

Are the best hubs Fag or SKF... anyone?

 

Also, I have also decided to start another mini project today, and splashed out on some materials for it, no doubt it will keep me busy for a "few" weeks. Pics in a few weeks once I buy the main part.

Edited by Nev, 21 April 2018 - 05:07 PM.

[chris_uk]

i can supply genuine FAG hubs for £80+ each

Edited by chris_uk, 21 April 2018 - 07:18 PM.

[Nev]

Another day... another job done... This time a new coolant thermostat, as my temps were a bit jumpy between 85 and 92 and sometimes the car would take ages to warm up (which I suspected was the thermostat sticking open). The old one I took off had been on Nipper for 15 years, so it was due a retirement.

 

Lots of other bits arriving for the VX in the next few days.

 

I also have plenty of jobs to do on my Ford Focus too: investigate/fix humming bearing, new front shocks, new rear pads. That should keep me off the street corners with nothing to do for a while. Off to the Alps in it for a few weeks soon.

Edited by Nev, 25 April 2018 - 11:06 AM.

[Nev]

I've also stuck the new hub on the O/S/F and taken it for a test drive. I think it's improved the steering wheel vibration a bit and camber change sensitivity seems to be better, but these things are always so subjective.

 

No leaks from the new thermostat and the car warmed up very quickly, also the coolant temps were definitely behaving themselves better.

Edited by Nev, 25 April 2018 - 03:02 PM.

[Nev]

After much deliberation, I've finally decided to go ahead with making a roof + scoop air feed to the turbo inlet. This mini-project is just a back-burner, but if it works it will eliminate my bird box (airbox) from the boot and the masses of 4" pipework routing the the air around from the N/S ear. Also it should add a bit of soundproofing and water tightness for winter and suit Nippers aggressive looks hopefully. Lastly, it's a good little project to learn some glass fibre skills in a non-committal way.

 

I'll be doing the project in 2 halves, first part will be to modify and fit the existing "Cliffie" style roof to Nipper, the second part will be to create modifications to route air from the back of the scoop behind the drivers seat and though the bulkhead into the turbo.

 

I bought the roof for £200 and spent about £70 on G/F stuff, so with a couple of rattle cans of paint it and some rubbers it should be all done for circa £350. The moulding is "wonky" and rather rough so will require some re-work and also the scoop needs to be chopped in 1/2 and tapered to the back, as well as some other minor mods.

 

Of concern to me is making sure the roof will stay on on the car at speed. To this aim, I intend to utilise the obvious 4 existing soft-top mounts as well as the 4 plastic bar semi-circular holes, ie a total of 8 mounting points to spread the stress. Also I will beef up the g/f with extra layers for the mount points. The last thing I want it the roof to rip apart & strike the wing and de-stabilise the whole car; not to mention hitting anyone behind me with large bits.

 

Edited by Nev, 25 April 2018 - 03:43 PM.

[chris_uk]

Why dont you just buy one of jons inners? And bond them together. Also, why go to all that trouble of routing air through the bulkhead, would it not be more logical to utilise the air at the back of the scoop, where is narrows, you would get faster air and direct it from there.. i made a scoop which pointed towards the charger on mikes and on mine i did a slightly different design but the principle was the same. I have seen a hhuge difference to the heat of the charger and the intake temps.

Edited by chris_uk, 25 April 2018 - 04:30 PM.

[siztenboots]

measure the air temperature in that flow and you might want to change your mind

[ditonics]

measure the air temperature in that flow and you might want to change your mind

Never thought of that, all the waste heat from the radiators.....

[Doctor Ed]

Radiator flow goes mostly to the sides around the windscreen, not over the roof

[Nev]

Radiator flow goes mostly to the sides around the windscreen, not over the roof

 

Yeppers, already established that myself, and it's minimal in flow compared to the sheer flow of ambient temp air once over 40 MPH.

 

It's not like I have any IAT issues anyway, seeing as I've specced my turbo correctly and identified and addressed the issue with inlet flow over the Pro-Alloy matrix.  

Edited by Nev, 25 April 2018 - 06:28 PM.

[Nev]

I forgot to mention, there was a "fly in the ointment" when I tried to install my new FAG hub pack into the Elise Parts £1250 upright - it didn't fit...

 

You'd hope for that price they make it right, but no. So I rang Elise Parts up and they confirmed that the version of the upright I have is not correctly machined. Thankfully I have 2 work-around solutions already, both of which are easy to execute, but it is irritating to pay so much for their uprights (with their "this is the best thing in the world" write up on their website), only to find it's not even basically correct enough to accept an OEM hub!

 

No apology either.

 

Edited by Nev, 25 April 2018 - 06:47 PM.

[SteveA]

What a joke. If they know about it why wouldn't they sort it before selling.

[Nev]

What a joke. If they know about it why wouldn't they sort it before selling.

 

Just the usual reason I guess, simply because they can get away with it. This sort of amateurishness would not be acceptable/tolerated in the industries I work in, but in the consumer automotive world it's rife. I am thinking of writing an email to Geary, this is the 3rd fault I've found with their uprights and it's getting beyond a joke.

 

TBH, I bet 90% of owners don't even notice the issue (as it was subtle) and just put the hub in without realising the implications. When I rang them up at least they admitted the design fault, which is more than Nortech did when the welds on my exhaust manifold failed (with so called lifetime guarantee).

 

Elise Parts "solution" is for me to machine out a bevel on the rim of the uprights mating face/hub hole, which would work.  

Edited by Nev, 26 April 2018 - 05:56 AM.