4722 replies to this topic

[cnrandall]

How's the clutch?

It slips when accelerating in a spirited fashion (ie 3/4 to full throttle) at around 5000 revs. As a consquence of this and not wanting to make matters worse I am not driving it much at the moment. I am waiting to summon up the will-power to take it all apart again to determine why.


Thankfully the rain gods allowed us to get the photo-shoot done. It was quite a lot more more involved than I had imagined (took 5 hours) and the photographer (Michael Whitestone) was a real pro. Unfortunately I can't post up any of the pics until the magazine article is published. Also, I have yet to do the full interview (once I have resolved the problem above), but as I am friends with the guy who is writing it, that won't take long as he is already familiar with the project.

My advise would be to pull the sump first and get an endoscope up there. Normal cause for a leakage there is the silicone sealant failing on the main end cap which can be fixed with the engine/gearbox in situ.

[Nev]

I have posted a small update and video on my blog.

[VXT Tim]

Did you get the box off today?

[Nev]

Nope, went climbing instead and been a lazy bugger after that Will probably work on it in bits after work in the evenings during the coming week. Thankfully, because I know what I'm doing, it's so much easier the second time round! I reckon another few hours and the box + engine will be hanging off the crane ready for inspection. Anyone want to come round and give me a hand and learn a thing or two ?

[Bargi]

Nev, with the vacuum pump, is it a mater of fitting it inline with the existing servo pipe in and setting the specific pressure you want it to stay at? Where are you going to fit it in the car?

[siztenboots]

tap into pipe near master cylinder, fit one way valve, then T in pump.

[Nev]

Spent another couple of hours in the garage tonight and everything is taken off the engine now with the exception of the suspension/driveshaft extraction which I need my girlfriend for as it's a 2 man job and she is unwell ATM. I've been timing myself so far and it's been 5.25 hours of labour so far to take the clam off and dismantle all engine attachments. Assuming the running gear and driveshafts come out in an hour reckon the whole extraction will have taken me approx 6.5 hours. Flipping amazing, though I expect DuncanVxr will come along now and say hes done it in less I also had a quick look at my vaccum pipe joins now that there is actually some room to inspect them. The ends seemed uncracked, but I did notice their push on seal seemed a bit wek, so I have fixed a jubilee clip on each join to ensure a good hermitic seal. Maybe this will fix my relatively weak brakes. time will tell...

Edited by Nev, 29 September 2011 - 08:46 PM.

[KurtVerbose]

I need my girlfriend as it's a 2 man job

* resists temptation to make joke *

[Duncan VXR]

Not sure I have timed getting the rear clam off tbh Nev as I never remove for gearbox removals - in fact even removed an engine out of a vx with the rear clam on but sugest clam off is a bit easier But think the quickest clutch change was 6hrs sure obi 1 vocky has done it in this time also - oh and dont have ramps either that would save a bit of time Half the time it really depends on the naughty bolts that slow you down and how long you spend having coffee and chatting and of course having a 2nd pair of hands speeds things up for some sections DG

[alanoo]

Which part is a 2 man job in suspension/Driveshaft removal ? Always do those alone

[Nev]

Which part is a 2 man job in suspension/Driveshaft removal ? Always do those alone

When I pull the driveshafts out I like to have someone else lifting the suspension assembly. This allows me to be use 2 hands and be careful not to stress/damage the delicate driveshaft sleeves. They are a bitch to change, so I live in fear of damageing one. Probably me being a bit over-cautious.

[Nev]

Not sure I have timed getting the rear clam off tbh Nev as I never remove for gearbox removals - in fact even removed an engine out of a vx with the rear clam on but sugest clam off is a bit easier

But think the quickest clutch change was 6hrs sure obi 1 vocky has done it in this time also - oh and dont have ramps either that would save a bit of time

Half the time it really depends on the naughty bolts that slow you down and how long you spend having coffee and chatting and of course having a 2nd pair of hands speeds things up for some sections

DG

You must be a record holder I am sure duncan. Bear in mind my engine now has quite a lot of extra/wierd bits and bobs that makes life a bit harder/slower now though

[Nev]

Another 2 hours of groveling on my garage floor and the engine + gearbox are out. I didn't have the energy or patience to crack them open and investigate the clutch assembly... maybe tomorrow, as I expect the anticipation will be gnawing at me all day at work. So it took 7.5 hours to do the whole job (staggered over 3 sessions (with girlfriend help passing spanners etc)) - am I the official record holder or can Vocky & Duncan beat that ?!

[Nev]

Clutch failure reason found...

Edited by Nev, 07 October 2011 - 08:45 PM.

[Lps]

Nev, just had a quick read of your last post on the blog. If you suspect that oil is passing up the bolt threads using 243 probably won't fix the problem. As i'm sure you know it's only a threadlock, at work we use a Loctite 577 on threads that are going into oilways etc as it's a sealant. I'm guessing the flywheel bolts don't already come with threadlock/patchlock on them? Obviously they'd need some applied, might be an idea to put some on them and let it dry overnight. Then add some 577 when you fit the bolts to try and hold back the oil? The only other one you could look at is Loctite 572 this is a liquid ptfe, but i think the 577 might be a better choice.

[Nev]

Thanks Lee, I am ringing round and seeing what people use/have in stock. My ARP bolts didnt come with any sort of threadlock I was originally told Loctite 243 would do the job, but that is just a locking fluid. I looked on TIS and it doesnt even mention using any sort of threadlock at all !!! Bloody useless.

Edited by Nev, 08 October 2011 - 07:12 AM.

[Boombang]

Could also be the threads on the ARB bolts are slightly out of tollerance, stretched or otherwise damaged. Certainly would not be the first time I've heard of it (although last time was a whole batch of Peugeot XU engine rod bolts and a good few years ago).

[Korkey]

Hi Nev. Very interesting. Chevrolet sell a "shalack", has a genuine part #, don't have it to hand. This liquid material is to stop oil forcing its way past bolt threads. It is sold, was sold, for the older style sbc motor. Korkey.

[Nev]

Could also be the threads on the ARB bolts are slightly out of tollerance, stretched or otherwise damaged. Certainly would not be the first time I've heard of it (although last time was a whole batch of Peugeot XU engine rod bolts and a good few years ago).

I've checked with my parts supplier and these bolts have been used on dozens of Vauxhall engines, so I think it is most likely due to me not using enough threadlock last time.

[Lps]

Thanks Lee, I am ringing round and seeing what people use/have in stock.

My ARP bolts didnt come with any sort of threadlock

I was originally told Loctite 243 would do the job, but that is just a locking fluid. I looked on TIS and it doesnt even mention using any sort of threadlock at all !!! Bloody useless.

Some fly bolts come with thread/patch lock some don't, in your case i'd think it'd be wise. Applying 243 and letting it dry then appying some 577 on fitting should see them properly sealed i reckon?

Edit to add: It's not that you're not using enough threadlock, just that the one you're using isn't oil resistant (you need a sealant)

Edited by Lps, 08 October 2011 - 08:27 AM.