PROCEDURE
1. I did my test in a similar fashion to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jc3j4ShE-tk
2. Leak down tester from eBay arrived. It's quite a good bit of kit apart from having the wrong bayonette (which I have now adapted).
3. Left the car in neutral (as I didn't want the compressed air to 'drive' it off the ramps!).
4. Took the plastic cam cover off (so that I could turn the engine over by hand using the cam hex bolt).
5. Used the leak down tester on all the cylinders about 3 times each.
6. In order to find TDC I pressurised the cylinder with compressed air and turned the engine over by hand until feeling the compression resitance. I also used my ear to detect when the leak went from "rushing" to a very slight hiss.
OBSERVATIONS
1) All cylinders were showing similar leak at approximately 20 PSI of inlet pressure. When retesting the same cylinder a variance of +/- 2% to 3% occurred. The figures shown below are the best I could get by moving the cams around. On my gauge Green=10% to 40%, Orange=40% to 65%, Red=65% to 100%, so all the figure below show theoretically healthy cylinders:
Number #1: 18%
Number #2: 21%
Number #3: 15%
Number #4: 15%
2) If I tried to increase the pressure, the engine just turns over at around 25 to 30 PSI, and then the valves open and let the pressure out.
3) I can hear the air roaring through the engine when the pistons are not at TDC.
4) When at TDC there is a consistent whisper of air noise, so clearly some minimal air is getting past the valves or rings.
5) This whisper noise level is the same for all cylinders at TDC.
QUESTIONS
1) Even though my tester "setting point" was done at around 20 PSI, presumably this means that all cylinders are operating with minimal leak?
2) I know it not really indicative of a great deal, but is approx. 25 PSI normal to turn a 4 pot engine over (without plugs in), seem like minimal ring friction to me (which is good in some ways!)?
POSSIBLE EXTRA TEST
As an additional test, would it be sensible to chock the car up very well and:
1) Put it gear to stop the engine turning.
2) Blast 100 PSI directly into each cylinder and see if the escaping air makes a similar amount of noise for each clyinder?
3) Presumably this test would be closer to the real life approx 200+ PSI that the cyclider actually sees when the engine is running?
4) Would this be a good test or am I trying to invent a test that wouldn't offer viable evidence?
CONCLUSIONS?
1) Is this enough info to conclude that the pistons + valves + HG are good health, or is that wishful thinking ?!
I have to say it's tempting to whack the refurbed turbo back on and drive it !
Edited by Nev, 16 April 2013 - 06:38 PM.