4722 replies to this topic

[The Batman]

Scuffers would have changed it if there was a better position for it

[steveboyslim]

In anticipation of the car going off for it's new ECU in 2 weekends time, I though It better get it prepped up fully as I am busy next weekend. So over the last week I:   1. Fitted a pair of new air filters in the "bird box" air-box as the old ones were very grubby. 2. Changed the oil from 10w50 to 10w40. This however was giving off puffs of smoke, so I decided to do Pt 3 below. 3. Reconfigure the cam cover breather from venting to atmosphere and instead make it vent into the inlet track (which has a mild vacuum).   Anyway I went out for an eventful drive in the lovely sunshine, just 41 miles and I came back pretty tired. The best bit was meeting a Ford Focus RS in front of me, he did his best and even overtook 3 cars in a stretch of single carriageway, but from behind it looked like he was moving in slow motion, I barely had to get Nipper up to 15 PSI at 5000 RPM to keep up. I also had the excitement of a conker fall out of a tree onto the passenger seat and some deluded chav in a Volvo try it on.   All in all the car is ready for new ECU and I am getting excited to get it back and finally have full control of every aspect of the car at last.   Steve Milton is recommending that I ask Chris to map it to the max, but I feel the precaution of limiting it to 2.0 Bar of boost or 550 BHP (whichever comes first) would be wise. In reality I will most probably program the boost settings considerably lower than this for most driving conditions, as I find the car is too mental (on a-roads) above circa 1.4 Bar of boost. However having full bore power available for my future plans will be of benefit

2.2 bar would be the ideal limit, but capping the boost, that is mapping boost against throttle angle which will help the power delivery. Failing that, just don't press the throttle pedal down so far. Steve

[jameso]

Scuffers would have changed it if there was a better position for it

Win star is the man to ask but am pretty sure he says it's rubbish warm air from the rads?

[jamiewillson]

Scuffers would have changed it if there was a better position for it

 

The fact is that there is no ideal position for a filter, so it's a case of making do with the best of a bad bunch. 

 

At the sides of the car behind the scoops you have horrible, dirty air which get's into you filter material very quickly.

 

At the rear of the car there's a shed load of heat from the exhaust and general heat passing through to escape at the rear (well there is in mine anyway).

 

Mine's a huge filter good for 1600bhp and is fed from the roof scoop which does draw in some of the heat which has passed through the engine radiator and is attached to the screen, however, it's nowhere near as bad as when you've got a full length roof scoop. That'll suck in loads of hot air and at the same time generate tonnes of drag. That's why mine is still set back as it came from the factory, as by that point some of the hot air has been directed around the scoop. On my list of things 'to do' is to experiment with some sort of air diverting device to try and channel more air around the scoop without upsetting the flow over the rest of the roof too much.

 

Another solution which looks a bit horrid is to have an extended kind of snorkel roof scoop which is slightly higher and sticks out well past the screen. In theory the scoop intake is just in front of the area where the hot air is still attached to the screen, so still gets cool air. Like this:-

 

 exige-600x380.jpg   54.33KB   12 downloads

[cnrandall]

Trouble with the roof is that you get hot air straight from the rads.  I did use a le-mans style scoop for a while which is probably the best bet... must try that again.

[VXT Tim]

I always thought the scoop on the 760 rs was a good solution and looked great

[jamiewillson]

I always thought the scoop on the 760 rs was a good solution and looked great

 

Yes, well that basically uses the same principle as on the Exige I attached a picture of above. The hot air passes under and then around it.

[VXT Tim]

Would it not be a more simple solution as well as for the hardtop section you could simply 'bolt' it onto your current hardtop, no need for body shops etc. Please bear in mind I'm thinking from the point of view of someone with a more standard looking vx. What happens at the rear requires more thought but as some one who wants a coupé back would prefer to go down this route.

[Nev]

Nipper is all ready and waiting for his trip to Efi tomorrow. I always seem to get nervous when taking him to a dyno for some reason

 

I have the 875cc injectors and 3.0 Bar FPR in a bag, so my old 630 cc injectors will be up for sale if anyone wants them.

[VXT Tim]

How long will it be away for?

[siztenboots]

its very noticeable the hot rad flow around the wing mirror supports , only having the windows half open kept the cabin cooler on trip down to Dijon

[Nev]

How long will it be away for?

 

A week probably at least.

 

As you might expect, there is a lot more to do than a normal dyno.

 

For a start he has to calibrate the ETB hardware to work with the Porsche TB I have, install the ECU, install the loom, disconnect bits of the old ECU, reconnect senders to new ECU, cut into the ABS loom, install slip angle potentiometer + switch on dash, swap injectors + FPR, remove MAF, eliminate vac box and re-plumb the bypass valve.

 

After that lot he can start on mapping it (and checking up the TC will work).

Edited by Nev, 11 October 2013 - 02:07 PM.

[allsteel]

 

How long will it be away for?

 

A week probably at least.

 

As you might expect, there is a lot more to do than a normal dyno.

 

For a start he has to calibrate the ETB hardware to work with the Porsche TB I have, install the ECU, install the loom, disconnect bits of the old ECU, reconnect senders to new ECU, cut into the ABS loom, install slip angle potentiometer + switch on dash, swap injectors + FPR, remove MAF, eliminate vac box and re-plumb the bypass valve.

 

After that lot he can start on mapping it (and checking up the TC will work).

That lot looks like it will be a hefty old bill. Which ecu are you going for.

 

[Ormes]

Great to hear mate! Think I must be due a visit

[Nev]

 

 

That lot looks like it will be a hefty old bill. Which ecu are you going for.

 

 

A lot more than a standard ME 1.5.5 remap that's for sure, and I've been saving for 2 years now. It's the bigger of the Adaptonic 440 ECU with just about all the features you could need.

 

I am hoping that it will turn the car into a highly adaptable/configurable machine, I will be able to set the power up from approx. 300 BHP to 550 BHP with an on-board laptop, and configure lots of other things at will.

 

Not being able to access/program the standard OEM ECU has irritated me, as it is the only part of the car I don't understand and hence can't control myself. So this will be the last part of the jigsaw.

[Nev]

Great to hear mate! Think I must be due a visit

 

Thanks, once I've re-learnt how to drive it I'll come over to deepest darkest Wiltshire

[Ormes]

 

Great to hear mate! Think I must be due a visit

 

Thanks, once I've re-learnt how to drive it I'll come over to deepest darkest Wiltshire

 

See you in a few weeks then!

[Thealastair34]

Nipper is all ready and waiting for his trip to Efi tomorrow. I always seem to get nervous when taking him to a dyno for some reason

 

I have the 875cc injectors and 3.0 Bar FPR in a bag, so my old 630 cc injectors will be up for sale if anyone wants them.

 

i might depending if they will fit in my bodies, let me knnow what you want for them and are they high or low impedance 

[Nev]

Nipper is now in "Scouser-land" awaiting his appointment with Dr Scoff.

 

I managed to get 25 MPG out of him on the relatively gentle motorway run up there, the best I've ever managed with his current configuration. I still don't really understand why he is so bad with fuel economy, as I was running on inlet manifold vacuum most of the way with just a few brief squirts to blow the cobwebs off. I am hoping the new ECU + map will help remedy this a bit.

 

I showed Chris round the car and pointed out all the idiosyncrasies. On the tour it became apparent why I was getting "run-away" boost, I had simply plumbed the waste-gate vac pipe into the wrong side of the waste-gate!!! This is such a trivial yet influential mistake, I simply can't believe I have over looked it. Basically instead of opening the waste-gate the signal line was closing the waste-gate - shame on me  I do remember fiddling with it some time back and must of absent mindedly re-connected it to the wrong nipple (they both look the same). Oh well, you live and learn !

 

He had another interesting VX220 in there which has had lots of work done on it, but I have been sworn to secrecy ATM; I'm sure it's owner will reveal all soon.

 

 

Edited by Nev, 12 October 2013 - 04:20 PM.

[CHILL Gone DUTCH]

Yellow ????