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How Much Brake Fluid...


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#1 Sticky

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 08:19 PM

...do I need if I drain the whole system and replace with new? Have done a search and ATE Super Blue seems to be top choice, anyone with other recommendations? chinky chinky

#2 lrid

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 08:26 PM

...do I need if I drain the whole system and replace with new?

Have done a search and ATE Super Blue seems to be top choice, anyone with other recommendations?

chinky chinky



Did mine with ATE Blue and Im happy with it chinky chinky

Dont drain it or you will have ABS problems, just flush ti through with the new fluid.

#3 lrid

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 08:33 PM

And to answer the original question which I managed to miss :rolleyes: I used less than a litre but that didnt include doing the clutch as well.

#4 rsg

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 08:33 PM

Another thumbsup for ATE Super blue. I flushed through with halfords cheapo stuff, then use a litre of ATE. Bought 2 just in case but you only need 1 litre. chinky chinky Dont forget the clutch

#5 theolodian

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 08:52 PM

Dont drain it or you will have ABS problems, just flush ti through with the new fluid.

Yeah, that's going to be one of those interesting little issues I'll have to deal with. :angry2:

#6 Sticky

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 09:29 PM

Dont drain it or you will have ABS problems, just flush ti through with the new fluid.


I have the ABS disconnected so I don't think that'll be an issue.

#7 rsg

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 09:39 PM

Dont drain it or you will have ABS problems, just flush ti through with the new fluid.


I have the ABS disconnected so I don't think that'll be an issue.


yeah it will, you'll get air locks in the ABS module valves, making the brakes feel spongy.

#8 lrid

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 09:42 PM

Dont drain it or you will have ABS problems, just flush ti through with the new fluid.


I have the ABS disconnected so I don't think that'll be an issue.


yeah it will, you'll get air locks in the ABS module valves, making the brakes feel spongy.


:yeahthat:


You dont want to let air in regardless of whether you are using the ABS.

#9 slindborg

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 09:46 PM

I changed back from ATE SB to 'pikey' mintex boggo 5.1 and cant tell the difference between the two (bar not being blue....well ok it is a little as the blue stains the lines :lol:) A Liter will do for a flush (big flush at that) and clutch.

#10 rsg

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 09:54 PM

I changed back from ATE SB to 'pikey' mintex boggo 5.1 and cant tell the difference between the two (bar not being blue....well ok it is a little as the blue stains the lines :lol:)

A Liter will do for a flush (big flush at that) and clutch.


Have you used both on track though? I'm sure you'd only see the difference as ATE has a higher boiling point than cheapo stuff (well so says the back of the tin anyway)

#11 slindborg

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 10:00 PM

have raped both in similar conditions and neither boiled, that was with pads that transfered heat back to the calipers like there was no tomorrow... back on well insulated ones so life is much easier on the fluid.

#12 Sticky

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 10:17 PM

Dont drain it or you will have ABS problems, just flush ti through with the new fluid.


I have the ABS disconnected so I don't think that'll be an issue.


yeah it will, you'll get air locks in the ABS module valves, making the brakes feel spongy.


:yeahthat:


You dont want to let air in regardless of whether you are using the ABS.


I stand corrected having misunderstood the implication :blush:

Surely if you drain the system properly then there shouldn't be any air. I'm in no rush here so have plenty of time to check and recheck.

Edited by Sticky, 06 December 2009 - 10:18 PM.


#13 slindborg

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 10:20 PM

just to check, you are going to be using a pressure bleeding kit (easy bleed) arent you?......... more to the point, YOU ARE GOING TO USE A PRESSURE BLEEDER!

#14 Zoobeef

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 10:23 PM

The ABS trapps the air so you have to activate it to release it then bleed again. You can do it by using a tech 2 or by activating it while driving then bleeding again. May take a few atempts

#15 rsg

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 10:23 PM

The way to bleed ABS modules rom completely dry is to do so under pressure then pulse the ABS module, so unless your going to activate your ABS whilst using an easy bleed I doubt you'll be able to do it. A litre of fluid will allow you to flush completely new fluid through for all brake lines and clutch thumbsup I dont see why you'd want to completely drain the system unless reinstalling the whole system (as Theo will be doing).

#16 Sticky

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 10:57 PM

just to check, you are going to be using a pressure bleeding kit (easy bleed) arent you?......... more to the point, YOU ARE GOING TO USE A PRESSURE BLEEDER!


Yes

#17 Sticky

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 11:04 PM

Ok, here's an idea. I'll get some Super Blue, use a pressure bleeder and not drain the whole system. Oh and I won't forget the clutch. Everybody happy? :lol: Seriuosly though, thanks for the advice.

#18 Zoobeef

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 11:09 PM

Ok, here's an idea.

I'll get some Super Blue, use a pressure bleeder and not drain the whole system. Oh and I won't forget the clutch.

Everybody happy? :lol:

Seriuosly though, thanks for the advice.


Hmm i'm sure i'll think of something :)

#19 theolodian

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Posted 07 December 2009 - 08:56 AM

The ABS trapps the air so you have to activate it to release it then bleed again. You can do it by using a tech 2 or by activating it while driving then bleeding again. May take a few atempts

I can get hold of a Tech2, but that does mean getting the electrics all hooked up. :rolleyes: Of course, I'm not really in a position to do the drving method either! :P

#20 siztenboots

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Posted 07 December 2009 - 09:01 AM

as a good alternative , ATE SL6 is great stuff too and dirt cheap ( 1L can )




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