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#21 Vespa

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:13 PM

Ps would my miltek exhaust system be ok for 300bhp or do I need something bigger?

#22 Bindegal

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:18 PM

Oh another thing. Even if you only use the bigger turbo for "low boost" applications, it will likely flow more air than the stock turbo would have done at the same boost level.... which means more power. Don´t ask me to explain why detail, but that´s how it works in practice. :D /Allan

#23 Zoobeef

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:19 PM

The balencer delete along with a lighened fly and short belt mod help the engine rev faster. its not an engine out mod to do, you just need to remove the sump but you need a kit to replace it which is around £90 but courteneys have been out of stock for the last 5 or so months. Most of the modded vxs use the Vxr turbo which is around £500. The hybrid is around £750 if you have a vxr one for them to convert. Even more if you dont. I think the normal time to fit the Pro alloy CC is around 3 days but thats not constant work on it so you could do it in a weekend. The search is top right but you can just use google by typing in site:vx220.org.uk then what every you want to search for after (e.g. 'site:vx220.org.uk charge cooler')

#24 Zoobeef

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:21 PM

Ps

would my miltek exhaust system be ok for 300bhp or do I need something bigger?


You would need a 3" exhaust chinky chinky

#25 Glambee

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:39 PM

The balencer delete along with a lighened fly and short belt mod help the engine rev faster. its not an engine out mod to do, you just need to remove the sump but you need a kit to replace it which is around £90 but courteneys have been out of stock for the last 5 or so months.

By the way, does anyone know when the balancer shaft deletion kit will be available again? Or is it available somewhere else?

#26 Steppenwolf1980

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:41 PM

Well, you are seriously thinking about stuff like charge coolers and Garretchargers whilst driving around with standard tyres? Sorry, but I can't get the point here... what's your driving style? Going straight ahead with full throttle, fearing every curve and trying to avoid braking? ;) Seriously mate, I've always been against those funny thoughts about pimping the VX with ridiculous power when it's obvious that the driver never ever has been at least near the possible limits of the car itself... my honest suggestion is: Change your Pizza-Slicer wheels against working ones, take some working brake pads and a better brake fluid. Leave the power as it is, but spend one season just with DRIVING and PRACTICING. After that you should know your car better, be way faster than by lurching around with a car that is strong on the straigts, but completely helpless in the curves. I always shake head when seeing those selfnamed hobbyracers who seem to carry their cars around the corner, because they can't handle them properly. Just my two cents, don't mean to offend somebody. And NO, you can't drive the VX REALLY fast with standard wheels/tyres. ;)

Edited by Steppenwolf1980, 06 March 2010 - 06:43 PM.


#27 Zoobeef

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:47 PM


The balencer delete along with a lighened fly and short belt mod help the engine rev faster. its not an engine out mod to do, you just need to remove the sump but you need a kit to replace it which is around £90 but courteneys have been out of stock for the last 5 or so months.

By the way, does anyone know when the balancer shaft deletion kit will be available again? Or is it available somewhere else?


They dont know and the only other place is vaux that i know off but as courteney will have loads on order allready they'll prob get them first. it just a waiting game

#28 Vespa

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:51 PM

Ah that's great, I work a 4 on 4 off shift at the moment so hopefully I could get in done in that time. In any case I have a crappy old Renault Clio I drive around in so it doesn't matter how log it's off the road for. The balancer shaft mod doesn't sound too bad then really, especially as i can use a friends ramp. WhY about the flywheel and clutch swap, is that a mammoth task? I suppose I best get my miltek exhaust on eBay then in that case! :)

#29 Zoobeef

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 06:55 PM

I did mine on my own, apart from the actual lowering the box down and back up. It took around 9 hours i think. I took it out through the bottom but another way is remove the rear clam then take it out from the top.

#30 Vespa

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 07:02 PM

I did mine on my own, apart from the actual lowering the box down and back up. It took around 9 hours i think. I took it out through the bottom but another way is remove the rear clam then take it out from the top.


I think I'll do the same as you and drop it out the bottom!

I'm thinking I may aswell start saving and do it all at the same time while I've got the car in pieces :)

#31 techieboy

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 07:05 PM

I don't seem to be able to find any search function on this forum so am struggling to find out info you've all probably discussed at length. But how long would it take to fit a charge cooler from say pro alloy, at home?

Courtenay's fitting guide here

Courtenay's balancer shaft delete guide here

Edited by techieboy, 06 March 2010 - 07:07 PM.


#32 Vespa

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 07:30 PM

That's what I was thinking alan with regards to flowing more air for a given boost pressure. And as the gt28 is cheaper than the vxr I think il definately be going down that route!

#33 Steppenwolf1980

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 07:39 PM

And you really do think that your engine will survive 350hp with the original pistons? ;) Good luck, mate.

#34 Vespa

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Posted 06 March 2010 - 09:16 PM

And you really do think that your engine will survive 350hp with the original pistons? ;) Good luck, mate.



There's pretty much no chance whatsoever of getting 350bhp with a GT28RS mate even with a decent engine. If u limit the boost you limit the max power

#35 Steppenwolf1980

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 08:53 AM

Well, at least their website tells that the charger can produce up to 360hp. I think I heard of some guys in the German forum using this charger and having about 330hp. But if you don't want to run it at maximum output, why do you want to have one? Didn't get that point. Maybe I read over something...?

#36 Vespa

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 10:06 AM

Yeah I think you're right, the GT28RS does has a max output capable of 360ish but I'm not wanting to spend a fortune on all the other bits and pieces that mean this wod be possible from the Z20LET. It's not that I've set out thinking I want 300bhp and therefore I must have the GT28RS, it's just I've been offered it a lot cheaper than I can get the VXR turbo for. So basically what I am saying is what's the difference between the vxr turbo and the gt28rs? I've heard the gt spools up very fast and that's why I was considering it suitable for the vx220. If I can run it at a lower boost pressure than the vxr unit for the same power, wouldnt this be preferable?

#37 Steppenwolf1980

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 11:34 AM

Ok, now I've got it. Well, in fact I can't tell you how the GT28 will behave when running with low pressure, sorry for that. What I do know is this: There are several Garrett-charged-Cars in our German forums, mostly with bigger chargers than the GT28 (GT30 or 35), running between 350 and 400hp. All of them run their chargers with full pressure, of course. All of them had their engine redbuild with all the expensive stuff. And all of them had some problems with their cars, some were major, some were minor. As far as I can tell by now, all the Garret-Cars somehow get thermical problems. Don't forget, I'm just talking about the bad boys here with the urge for ridiculous power ;) So maybe a GT28 with low pressure will work, I have no idea about that. Maybe it won't work properly when it comes to response, I guess somebody with more technical experience about turbochargers can tell. But if the Garrett is so much cheaper than the VXR, you COULD take the Garrett, run it (if possible and driveable) with low pressure and e.g. 280hp. If you then still get the urge to have more power, rebuild your engine and increase the pressure, because the charger had still plenties of power reserves left. Corrections to my thoughts are welcome. But by the way: How feekin cheap is this Garrett kit that you can buy? I only know our prices here and you ALWAYS have to spend a lot more money for a Garret-conversion than for the VXR one. The charger alone is here at about 900 pounds, then you need another manifold (the Garretts have a different flange, so you can't put a Garrettcharger onto a LET/VXR manifold), which will also be several hundred pounds normally. After that you still need the new mapping on your ECU and probably some fitting oil pipes. The VXR charger is about 600 pounds including manifold, the bigger injectors (which I guess you will also need for the Garrett) cost about 120 pounds and all the pipes will fit straightaway, it's a plug and play solution. The new mapping should be not expensive, because these VXR-conversions are quite common and proven. Maybe you've got different prices in the UK, but here I can do a VXR swap a lot cheaper than a Garret. The other modifications like big chargecooler/intercooler, uprated clutch and so on are necessary anyway, that doesn't depend on the type of charger.

#38 Vespa

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 12:10 PM

I see what you mean with regards to other costs involved, so I think I'll have to get onto courteneys and get a break down. I guess what I needto decide on is whether or not I intend to do an engine strengthening rebuild in the future, because like you say the GT28rs has the potential for producing a lot more power. Hmmm choices choices...

#39 Steppenwolf1980

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 01:11 PM

Yes, now you've got the final decision to make. And don't forget to change your wheels/tyres, feels like a completely different car. No more terrible understeering then.

Edited by Steppenwolf1980, 07 March 2010 - 01:12 PM.


#40 Vespa

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Posted 07 March 2010 - 01:43 PM

I gotta agree with you about the wheels and tyres, I have found it understeers quite a lot when you throw it I to a corner - I'm guessing they've deliberately put 175's on the front to induce understeer to be on the safe side. What's the wheel/tyre size of choice given that I only use this car at weekends and the occasional commute and never inthe wet?




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