9 replies to this topic

[willis]

Hi guys does any one have a fitting guide for the spitfire toe link kit for a turbo done a search but no joy any help i would be very greatfull

[Whiteboy]

I don't think there is one, but you will need a geo afterwards. I had mine fitted at bot.

[Muncher]

VX220 Spitfire Engineering Toe Link Kit Fitting Guide The procedure below describes how to fit the toe link kit. As a result of this the rear toe setting will need to be reset by an appropriate garage. The standard Vauxhall settings are: 1.2 mm each side (+ 0.18°) with a maximum variation of 0.2 mm (0.03°) per side. There are however settings which some consider to be preferable and these are set out here: http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Geo_Setups It is also possible to set your own toe value accurately, a DIY guide is here: http://wiki.seloc.or...Rig_(Home_Made) N.B Fitting may be more easy if the car is jacked up and a rear wheel removed. To do this please consult the Vauxhall guidelines in the vehicle handbook. 1. Remove rear undertray • Two M8 centre bolts • Ten M5 bolts • Two plastic fasteners (lever the centre out first) 2. Place a 17mm open ended spanner in between the outer joint rubber surround and the hub carrier. The spanner should locate on two flat faces. Using another 17mm open ended spanner loosen the nut which fastens the outer joint spindle through the hub carrier. If necessary tap the bar with a hammer to cause the outer joint to drop clear of the hub carrier. 3. Feel behind the inner toe link joint and you will feel a thread which passes through the wishbone bush which is retained by a nyloc nut. Remove this nut with a 17mm socket or ratchet spanner. You will then be able to pull the existing toe link clear of the car. 4. Bend back any aluminium foil covering the area. On the nearside of the car will be a small curved aluminium piece which is riveted to the subframe. Drill out this aluminium rivet. 5. Pass the new outer M10 bolt through the outer toe link connected to the bar. The outer end of the bar is the end which does not contain an insert on the end, if you pull back the neoprene protective boot you will find the joint is red in colour. The outer bolt is the bolt with a nyloc nut on one end. Press the shaped collet into the underside of the hub carrier. Place one washer on the bolt and pass it through the joint from the underside and through the hub carrier. Secure on the other end with a washer and nyloc nut. Tighten the nut with a 17mm spanner to pull the collet into the hub carrier. Torque the joint to 60NM. 6. Ensure joints are screwed into the bar up to the rubber boots. 7. Pass the inner M10 bolt through the locating collet, then through the tie rod bracket, through the inner joint and through the subframe and wishbone bush. Ensure the slotted collet sits in the grooved face of the subframe. Place a washer and lock nut on the rear of the bolt and tighten to the extent that the bracket is pressed up against the subframe but can be loosened by rotated slightly by hand. 8. Repeat steps 2-6 for the opposite side of the car. 9. Lay a piece of wood or any straight line over the top of both brackets to ensure they are level, once they are tighten the bolts though them and re-check. Torque to 60NM. 10. Using a 6mm drill-bit drill through the 4 small holes on each bracket. Too make this easier we recommend using a drill bit extension device such as the one made by Bosch and sold at hardware stores for approximately £15. NB. If you are fitting the brace bar kit you only need to drill the two top holes on the bracket. 11. Place the supplied bolts and washers through these holes and place a washer and locking nut at the rear by sliding it across the rear face of the subframe with one finger. Tighten using a 5mm allen key and 10mm spanner. 12. Adjust the toe in of the wheel by loosening the lock nut on the bar and rotating it by hand before tightening the lock nut. Please note the lock nuts do not need to be overly tightened. 13. Refit the undertray VX220 Spitfire Engineering Brace Bar Kit Fitting Guide 1. Connect the brace bracket to the toe link bracket using the supplied small bolts. Pass the bolt through from the brace bracket side. Tighten the bolt to the extent that it can be tapped up and down to adjust. 2. Repeat for the other side of the car. 3. Place the brace bar in between the brackets and pass the supplied M10 bolts through with the large collets next to the joint towards the front of the car. The M10 bolt will locate in the hole at the rear of the bracket but will not pass all the way through. 4. Ensure there is at least 5mm clearance between the bar and exhaust by raising and lowering the brace brackets. Once you are happy with the height fully tighten the connecting bolts and remove the large bolts and bar. 5. Drill a 10mm hole through the subframe using the brace bar bracket hole as a guide. 6. Repeat step 4 but pass the bolt all the way through the subframe, place a washer and locknut at the rear and torque to 60NM. 7. Rotate the bar by hand to lengthen it, once you meet resistance use a spanner to turn the bar an extra half turn to put the subframe under pre-load. Tighten the lock nuts at either end. 8. Pass the supplied M8 bolts through the undertray centre holes and place two nitrile washers on the other side so that approx 3mm of thread protrudes through them both. Refit undertray, locating the M8 bolts in the holes of the subframe.

[mandarinvx]

There are some pics I took when I fitted mine (NA, but little difference) in my project thread

[rcvaughan]

Any rough ideas how much it would add to the cost of a geo to replace the toe links? Cheers

[techieboy]

Any rough ideas how much it would add to the cost of a geo to replace the toe links?

Cheers

A couple of hours work, I'd guess (Guglielmi's ran into some problems when fitting mine, so took a bit longer). How much that costs money wise depends on where you take it.

[rcvaughan]

Same place as you! scared stiff!

[SteveA]

Just as an addition to these instructions. Gaz from Spitfire informs me that the outer bolt must be torqued to 49NM not 60NM as mentioned above. Spitfire say that any over or under torquing of bolts can expediate component failure.

[Mike (Cliffie)]

So can cheap rod ends... apparently.

[Spitfire Engineering]

Just as an addition to these instructions. Gaz from Spitfire informs me that the outer bolt must be torqued to 49NM not 60NM as mentioned above. Spitfire say that any over or under torquing of bolts can expediate component failure.

It will not effect the other components, just the bolt itself may fail.