70 replies to this topic

[slindborg]

mostly for bob a job, but for all too.

I accept no responsibility for any cock ups made as a result of this guide

Tools needed (all done from memory so there might be small errors)

17mm socket + breaker bar (for wheels)
15mm socket (can be deep if you like) 1/2" drive
15mm 6 sided Deep Socket (known fits are Halfords Pro and Snapon) AND 15mm normal depth 6 sided both 1/2" drive
A minimum of 24" of 1/2" extension bars, ideally with locks, but tape will do to hold them ad the 15mm socket together.
screwdrivers/small sockets for the arch liner

For N/A
15mm ring spanner
15mm 3/8" drive socket + ratchet (and some sort of extension for the ratchet, or a breakerbar)

For Turbo
13mm 6 sided socket (1/2" or 3/8")
Accompanying ratchet for said 13mm socket.


Easy first bits.
Car off the floor, add axel stands if you are a whuss
Wheel off
Arch liner out
Long ass extension with 15mm socket up the chassis rail directly under the engine mount, you will find a nut up there... locate on the must and undo the swine.
Then undo the 15mm nut ontop of the engine mount.

Its your call now as to wether you support the engine or not..... I dont now as I've found you can use a breaker bar to lift the engine back up a few mm to realign the bolts, if you arent happy with that, support the engine with something like a bottle jack etc, that may mean the under tray has to come off (you can simply place some wood between the tray and the sump, and then jack on the tray.

N/A Specific
There are 3 15mm bolts in the engine mount bracket that are on the vertical plane of the engine (ie the bolts are horizontal) and well hidden by the subframe, so you have to undo them by feel.
One (or two) are longer undone with a ratchet on them than the space permits, so get the bolts slackened off using the ratchet and handle extension and then use the spanner for the rest of the job. Once the bolts are out, jiggle the mount bracket till you can lift it out of the car.

Take old shagged mount out, replace with new one.

Jiggle the bracket back into position, use a lever (breaker bar) to lift the engine back up and do the bolts up by hand at first and then nip up good and tight with the spanner/ratchet.


Turbo Specific

There are 3 13mm bolts in the horizontal plane of the engine (ie the bolts are vertical). They are easy to get to (if there isnt some stupid Charge cooler crap in the way ) and you simply undo the bolts and lift out the bracket (careful, as I believe ALL the extra turbo weight is in that one bracket.... its funking heavy).

Take old shagged mount out, replace with new one.

Jiggle the bracket back into position, use a lever (breaker bar) to lift the engine back up and do the bolts up by hand at first and then nip up good and tight with the spanner/ratchet.



Finishing the job

Refit the 15mm nuts top and bottom of the mount

Refit liner

Refit wheel

drop to floor

DONE
WIN

goto maccy D's for a well earnt munch.

[The Fat Man]

Top man,

Numpties like me find these posts invaluable.

Although down the road when I'm stuck in the middle of it I'll probably be cursing you for conning me into thinking 'I could do that'

[Mangham54]

One tiny addition... Give the bolts that hold the top of the engine mount to the engine itself a hefty dose if WD40 24hrs+ before trying to undo them. Makes life a lot lot easier from experience.

[Crabash]

I found that a little battery impact wrench makes the driver side very easy, I have a De-walt one that fits in the space above the mount bracket, buzz, buzz, buzz, it's off. Also great for under tray.

Edited by Crabash, 13 June 2010 - 09:45 PM.

[G-Bob]

Thanks Stoo! Much appreciate you taking the time to write this out for me. Let's see how I get on on Tuesday. I don't believe in Axel stands and if there's an easy way to support the engine without having to take the tray off, I'll give that a go too.

[slindborg]

no probs chap. if you get a chance, take pics to add to the guide

[G-Bob]

no probs chap.

if you get a chance, take pics to add to the guide

Will do!

[Mangham54]

I found that a little battery impact wrench makes the driver side very easy, I have a De-walt one that fits in the space above the mount bracket, buzz, buzz, buzz, it's off. Also great for under tray.

Do you by chance have a model number Crabash?

If have been looking for just that kind of tool.... The bloody mini-electric screwdiver is a gnats whisker to big to fit under the car to do the undertrays! Possible when jacked up about 5-6cm - but doing both sides that way is slower than the mini socket.

[Crabash]

Not sure mate will take note next time I do any work on the car. My Dad says it is possible they are not available yet as he works for Black & Decker.

[G-Bob]

fcuking Engine mount!!!!! Is EVERY bolt on my car welded on or something?!?!?!?

[Craig S]

fcuking Engine mount!!!!!

Is EVERY bolt on my car welded on or something?!?!?!?

Did you soak them over night with WD40?

I think you must be in the record books for the longest engine mount change and the most number of random fixings on a car. If you are still having problems let us know so we can come round and watch (and maybe lend a hand).

[G-Bob]

fcuking Engine mount!!!!!

Is EVERY bolt on my car welded on or something?!?!?!?

Did you soak them over night with WD40?

I think you must be in the record books for the longest engine mount change and the most number of random fixings on a car. If you are still having problems let us know so we can come round and watch (and maybe lend a hand).

Soaked in WD40 and then again this morning. I snapped 3 extension pieces on the bolt that goes up through the channel.

The bolt on the top of the mount came off without problems. The 3 bolts that hold the bracket on are completely siezed and will not budge.
Because the mount was split, I jacked up the engine and managed to get the top half of the mount out by wedging it with a garden fork! (don't ask) After attacking the bottom half for a while with a hack-saw it was not moving and then my neighbour came to the rescue with his hand-held grinder and we cut the bottom half out.

The problem now being that the engine needs to be about 1/2 a cm higher in order to wedge the new mount in with the bracket in place, but the mount is now up against the roll-bar and so can't move any further.

We have a few ideas for tonight including loostening the roll-bar to get a little extra room, making the slit in the end of the bracket a little wider so that we can get maneuver the bottom bolt in the hole easier, and shaving a little bit off the top and bottom screws.

[slindborg]

take the fcuking bracket off as stated in the guide

[G-Bob]

take the fcuking bracket off as stated in the guide

The bolts will not budge with an extremely long bar. They are completely solid!

[slindborg]

has it been aprked in the sea? note WD40 is utter sh** and I'd never use it for anything other than cleaning crap off my nitro rc car.. Plusgas or KROST are what you want/need

[G-Bob]

Plusgas or KROST are what you want/need

Unless that stuff melts the bolts off it's not going to help.

[Craig S]

Plusgas or KROST are what you want/need

Unless that stuff melts the bolts off it's not going to help.

I think someone has been supergluing your nuts n bolts what a nightmare.

[G-Bob]

I think someone has been supergluing your nuts n bolts what a nightmare.

I think so!

On a positive note, at least it's not going to fall apart!

[Craig S]

I think someone has been supergluing your nuts n bolts what a nightmare.

I think so!

On a positive note, at least it's not going to fall apart!

The bolted parts for sure, I am not so sure about the cable tied parts though

Best of luck for getting the mount in, just a pity you could not get some heat on the stuck bolts.

[G-Bob]

The bolted parts for sure, I am not so sure about the cable tied parts though

Best of luck for getting the mount in, just a pity you could not get some heat on the stuck bolts.

hmmmm.... I have one of those little kitchen blowtorches for flambe'ing stuff. Maybe could get that out!