41 replies to this topic

[NickB787]

I would try changing the sensors, someone on here may have some oem ones spare, often the after market ones do not work properly

[rickyzero]

I would try changing the sensors, someone on here may have some oem ones spare, often the after market ones do not work properly

I suppose that's the next logical step. Does anyone on here have any spare OEM lambda sensors? I've just spent over £100 on the new ones so I'll be looking for my money back from vauxhallpartswarehouse if it turns out to be the sensors!

[old codger]

The son in law was having same codes on his elise 111s and he changed everything, including coil packs, tps, leads. But still had misfire, so changed Lambda sensor and ran great and no codes. If all was fine before exhaust was fitted you would put your money on it being the sensor, or sensors.Maybe better going for an OEM part, more expensive but should be right.

[sworks]

Maybe better going for an OEM part, more expensive but should be right.

Edit: Try autovaux

Edited by sworks, 28 July 2010 - 10:38 AM.

[rickyzero]

Thanks for your comments. I'll speak to Autovaux today and get some new sensors sent out to me. EDIT: Just ordered two new lambda sensors from Autovaux which should arrive tomorrow, fingers crossed this sorts it!

Edited by rickyzero, 28 July 2010 - 10:51 AM.

[rickyzero]

I'm at my wits end now. Sensors turned up from autovaux today, the pre-cat one was NTK branded like the one that was originally in the car so I just replaced that as it's the important one anyway. The post-cat sensor autovaux sent me was also a Denso and looked exactly the same as the new one I fitted so I didn't bother replacing it. The car is running terribly, still getting the same P0300 code. Is it time to take in to a garage?

[rickyzero]

Also the fan seems to be on now permanently.

[garyk220]

May be a daft question, but are you sure the battery is fully charged? Or did you disconnect the negative terminal when removing the lamdas? Cooling fan running permanently suggests the ECU is not happy and is in limp mode. Any chance you have disturbed the boot mounted relays and fuses while fitting the exhaust? I'd double check the battery is charged and both connections are secure first and then remove, check and reseat the 4 relays in the boot plus check any fuses in this section of the loom (I can't remember if the NA has fuses there). Would also be worth removing the fuel cut-out plug and reseating just to be on the safe side, but I doubt it is this if you are getting fuel through. Can you tell if it is running rich or lean? Might help point to the problem. Not sure which OBD reader you're using but you should be able to check the fuel trims and ignition advance while the engine is 'running'. Anything there look untoward? You might have tried these already and I'm sure someone who knows the 2.2 engine better than me will be along soon.

[rickyzero]

Thanks Gary, I'll have another look. Battery is fine though, recently been replaced.

[rickyzero]

No joy, feeling rather deflated now. The car has been off the road for a whole week for what was meant to be a simple exhaust swap. Think I best ship it off to a specialist, I'm sick of the sight of it just now!

[Marco Polo]

Not an engine expert, only advice I can give you was found on the Net... http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300 When you did the exhaust line swap, you did not touch anything in the engine bay ? (for cleaning, by curiosity, ...) I will check the coil pack/spark plug (easy to unplug) and check for any air leak (intake & exhaust).

[simsy]

Is there any chance of the timing chain jumping a tooth, this has happened to lots of 2.2 in vectra's. Not related to the exhaust change I know, but not too hard (costs no £££) to look at the cam marks and crank position to see it's right. Have you left some packaging in the new exhaust, like a rag. Does the exhaust pulse onto your hand when someone revs it for you with your hand near the outlets, if so, then there's prob. nowt in it. Unlikely suggestions maybe , my moneys still on a sensors issue, check sensor cables also.

Edited by simsy, 30 July 2010 - 08:46 AM.

[LazyDonkey]

As i said last night its sounds like mine did when it was misfiring..........and i think that was due to water getting into the coil pack.... ....although i'll never know for sure as vaux replaced every single part at once May be better to go with a vaux specialist rather than ALi ? No idea who but maybe falkland or someone ?

[Bargi]

Don't know if this helps, when I installed my amp I had to run power cables from the battery. All I did was undo one of the small nuts on the terminal and bolt on the new cables. When I started the car it coughed and farted and ran like shite. Turned it off and re-tightened and checked all the connections and then started running fine.

[siztenboots]

battery voltage is something that the ECU monitors and adjusts map to suit , i guess its overfueling

[rickyzero]

May be better to go with a vaux specialist rather than Ali ? No idea who but maybe falkland or someone ?

I've spoken to Ali today and he can take it in on Monday, he owes me for a cracked sill anyway! I've got breakdown recovery through my bank account and they've agreed to take it through.

I really will be very interested to find out what's wrong with it. I didn't go anywhere near the battery, only pulled out fuse 8. Didn't disturb anything in the engine bay and the exhaust looked clean as a whistle. Checked the coil pack and plugs and they were fine.

I admit defeat this time, but it's been a huge learning curve! On the plus side I'm getting really good at taking the exhaust on and off.

[Bassjay]

The post-cat sensor autovaux sent me was also a Denso and looked exactly the same as the new one I fitted so I didn't bother replacing it.

Not a VX220 owner yet, but I'd still replace it regardless of how it looks...

[Bargi]

battery voltage is something that the ECU monitors and adjusts map to suit , i guess its overfueling

how does the battery affect the mapping?
when the motor is running everything is off the alternator isn't it? so even with a crappy batter you'd still be getting the min voltage required?

[siztenboots]

a higher load on the alternator , means a more power lost at the crank. The ecu monitors battery voltage for cold winter starts with a high electrical load, ie. on normal cars windscreen demisters, heater fans, lights. a bad negative earth can cause similar stray current / back emf issues, which is why you should never run a car without a battery coolent temperature sensor is also notorious for causing bad misfires when it goes duff.

[Bargi]

a higher load on the alternator , means a more power lost at the crank. The ecu monitors battery voltage for cold winter starts with a high electrical load, ie. on normal cars windscreen demisters, heater fans, lights.

a bad negative earth can cause similar stray current / back emf issues, which is why you should never run a car without a battery

coolent temperature sensor is also notorious for causing bad misfires when it goes duff.

Ahh, learn something new every day